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I have a 2000 p38 4.6 it has been very well maintained..with 186,000 miles. Just yesterday I was driving on hwy about 75 to 80 mph...got off hwy drove to a 711 to get a drink. Got back in car..she fired right up as usual...i pulled out drove about 50 feet and had to stop for railroad train. light changed green i put my foot on gas and the car felt like i have my foot on the brake.. it tried to go ..but nothing. I put it in park..then reverse..the tack dropped like normal the car went into the reverse mode but when i push on the gas...same thing...it tries but nothing... and i was afraid to force it cause something might break. It doesn't feel like its in neutral like some of the other posts ive read regarding this matter...because when i put it in drive ..it settles forward and same with reverse...Any Ideas?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Handbrake (parking brake) stuck on?
Give the drum a good bang with lever off. Watch it doesn't roll over you if the shoes unstick!
 

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This sounds very much like what's happened to me last year, with my P38 having something like 230,000 miles on it.

When engine is running, from the outside of the car, do you hear unusual whining noise?

If so, your torque converter has gone.

I replaced it myself. It wasn't as bad a job as I initially thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
im going to listen and see...i am also from southern cali,,,san bernardino...would love to hear how u did the torque converter...as i do all (except the front end)work myself... and the cost incurred:mrgreen:..
 

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If you're mechanically inclined with basic skills, this job is definitely doable.

Things you need to remove:
-Exhaust mid pipe
-Transfer case
-Cross member
-Transmission
-Prop shafts
-If replacing the transmission oil cooler as well, then the following also has to come off:
-Front grill
-Metal panel over the grill
-oil cooler

Tools you need:
-Basis hand tools
-High jack stands. Helps to have as much clearance as possible. I bought the 6t jack stands from Harborfreight that gave me a 23 in lift. Cost around $60/pair. I bought 2 pairs.
-2 transmission lifts

Parts you need
-Torque converter. Bought mine from Autozone during a sale for something like $199. Super cheap. Quality or heavy duty ones go for around $300-$600.
-Exhaust gaskets x2. I believe they were around $10 each.

So total cost for me was around $220 for parts, and $120 for tools I didn't have. $340 total.

I did the job by myself. No helping hand was needed at all.

Transmission and transfer case weigh about 400 lbs each, so best to split them.

After you install the torque converter, visit Aschroft Transmissions page, and refer to the torque converter seating height. It varies by bellhousing build number. Also, make sure you have RAVE as a guild.

I took time doing the job, doing little at a time. I think I put in about an hour a day. Took about a week to finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
****UPDATE***** thanks for all the suggestions, however it turned out to be the front differential. Apparently i had a leak in the outer right front Axel seal and all the fluid drained out of the diff. i had it towed from my home to the Transmission shop fully prepared to have the Torque converter replaced. I asked the mechanic to check trans fluid and top off before he took it for a diagnostic test drive as I was unable to get the truck completely level with the jack supports that i had because of where i live(mountains). He did so and said it was a bit low(i was able to add some myself but i new my reading was inaccurate). He took if for a text drive and got about an 1/8 mile before car completely locked up and came to a screeching halt. I had to have the car towed once again back to the shop. He checked the fluid level in the front diff...BONE DRY...Anyway he told me the diff was toast and i found a used one from a Rover salvage dealer that came off a p38 with about 78,000 miles on it. Had it installed. On my way home from the shop however im noticing a clicking noise only when i turn left or right below 8 mph?..any ideas?
 

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Thanks for the write up Theo...
 

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On my way home from the shop however im noticing a clicking noise only when i turn left or right below 8 mph?..any ideas?
I'd be checking the prop shaft UJ's and viscous coupling for a start. Drive train's been shock loaded and the vehicle's been run with a broken diff.
 

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Hey guys just bought a p38 in great body engine interior, but it won't move in drive,3&2,the low mode works perfectly have to move in 1 then shift slow all the way to drive, once in drive it runs like a beast in all gears, the guy i bought it from say it could be sensor to the tranni needs some work, did a diagnostic and these codes came up

P0722 OUTPUT SHAFT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT NO SIGNAL
P1669 COOLING FAN ECM LINK,POEN CIRCUIT OR NO SIGNAL
P0134 O2 CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY DETECTED(BANK 1,SENSOR 1)
 

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Hey guys just bought a p38 in great body engine interior, but it won't move in drive,3&2,the low mode works perfectly have to move in 1 then shift slow all the way to drive, once in drive it runs like a beast in all gears, the guy i bought it from say it could be sensor to the tranni needs some work, did a diagnostic and these codes came up

P0722 OUTPUT SHAFT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT NO SIGNAL
P1669 COOLING FAN ECM LINK,POEN CIRCUIT OR NO SIGNAL
P0134 O2 CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY DETECTED(BANK 1,SENSOR 1)
When you have to shift from 1 then go up manually from thereon in order to get going, typically, the sprag clutch has gone.

It's a transmission out rebuild.
 

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So i have to get the transmission rebuilt then,im willing to do that as the truck is a project the cost i got was $3200 aamco
 
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