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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

Just one quick question. My car has been on service, also purchased new tires and had them mounted. Now - before I did all that, I could leave car on raised and for three days it would not go down, so airbags OK.
Now, after all those car raises, the rear right side of car goes down almost completely under 8 hours...you can actually see car out of line on eye; must say, that on eye complete car is lower in the back...
So my question is - could it be, that air bag was near the failure and car being raised ripped it open? If I start the car it goes up immediately on level...

Also to clarify - proper procedure on raising the car off the ground - raise the car to high, press the inhibit button and then just go raise it on the elevator and put down, un-inhibit the EAS and drop it to the base line level...

Cheers until later,
D

PS: one of the new pics...and yes, it is almost may and yes, that is snow...
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Range rover Sport utility vehicle
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Anything is possible. I'd set her on high, open a door, switch off, pull the EAS delay timer out (above EAS computer) and then lockup and leave overnight. If a corner has dropped you have an issue, most likely the bag.
 

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RIP Our Friend
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Serious? Extreme cold shrinks seals. You can have perfect system operations and shrinkie dink for a date and can;t get it up.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Then thing is that no EAS fault is detected and car, when started, almost immediately goes up into position, no delay no hesitation...Will try to leave it overnight on high again, so that I can confirm the leakage...
@RRToadHall - amm...what? Did not quite catch that :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, right'io boys and girls...during my ride home with my wife, suddenly there was beeping, all lights started flashing, together with inhibit light and on the cluster the high ride light and it says, EAS Fault.... *yay* :/
So car wont go up wont go even down...the height is on normal, like stuck...and regardless if I power off and back on, still fault, and still wont go down.
Really, am I that lucky? :/
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,261 Posts
Over the years mine has also stuck on height, without dropping.
Chances are the compressor is worn out from pumping all the time with a leaky bag. Best bet is to hook it up and read then reset the fault.
A leaking bag will not throw a fault on the EAS, it's purely a mechanical issue not electronic.
I would STRONGLY suggest getting one of Scotty's Rover Raisers, a valve block and compressor rebuild kit, and the software to hook up to it. The piece of mind of the Rover Raiser is worth whatever he sells them for.

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Over the years mine has also stuck on height, without dropping.
Chances are the compressor is worn out from pumping all the time with a leaky bag. Best bet is to hook it up and read then reset the fault.
A leaking bag will not throw a fault on the EAS, it's purely a mechanical issue not electronic.
I would STRONGLY suggest getting one of Scotty's Rover Raisers, a valve block and compressor rebuild kit, and the software to hook up to it. The piece of mind of the Rover Raiser is worth whatever he sells them for.

Martin
This is then even weirder...because I have a invoice that compressor was brand new and fitter in 2011, about 10-20k KM ago...I presume that it wouldn't wear/die so soon, but then again, it wouldn't surprise me - like it hates me...
Will go tomorrow or on Tuesday to the shop and will get everything tested...ohh boy...
Than's for sticking with me there! :)
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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The EAS software is a free download, and the cable can either made or bought cheap. Why go to a shop?
It could also be a height sensor, but with a bad airbag sucking air too much, I would guess the compressor overheated or wore out.

Keep us posted

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I got some cable with the car purchase - I think that it is it...will take a pic and post here so that you can guide me with this...I really hope that only compressor is/was overheated...because before I have not had any problems - car could stand for three days and night on high without any problems, also drove couple of thousand KM without any problem...well, more on this tomorrow...THX!!
 

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Well I got some cable with the car purchase - I think that it is it...will take a pic and post here so that you can guide me with this...I really hope that only compressor is/was overheated...because before I have not had any problems - car could stand for three days and night on high without any problems, also drove couple of thousand KM without any problem...well, more on this tomorrow...THX!!
If the compressor is feeding a leak it won't last long. Pull the timer relay and see what drops. If anything does you've got an issue that needs fixing before your compressor wears out, either the Teflon seal or the thermal switch burning out. Maybe Martin is right and you're lucky and a height sensor just hit a nasty bit of track but best make sure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, those are all good suggestions. I have drive my wife to work today - there is no other way about it, and after that I will try to make some tests and observations and of course, post back info here...
 

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Unless the air springs have been replaced with Dunlops since you've owned it, replace them. If it had work done in 2011 it may well have had new springs fitted then too but if cheapo (Britpart or similar) were fitted then you can still have problems. A leak will wear out a pump in a matter of weeks, so 5 years isn't bad really......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well yes, I agree, with you gilbert...Though I must point out that the car did not many KM since, as it was standing for a year or perhaps two. Also all parts were purchased from britpart - the invoice was from them.
I am posting image of the interface cable...I think that is not completely it, right? It should be paired with ODB2 connector - I do not recognize this port..
Is there any way to disable the EAS manually so that I can drive my wife or is it safe to make like 50 or so KM? Also weird - car is NOT in crawl height - it is in standard and it has been in standard from yesterday, this morning I look at it and it is still standing in normal height...weirdnes...also the ride quality has not changed THAT much, if at all, from the warning yesterday (we were almost at home but there were some bumps and to my place there quite a bumpy road)....
Cable Wire Electronic device Technology Electronics accessory
Cable Finger Technology Electronic device Electrical connector


EDIT: Just a notice - I just started the car and it says EAS Fault BUT - the car rose in front to std height, well it adjusted the front to std height at least...so...weird, right? The pump is working for now correctly, also the car raised like in a matter of few seconds...
 

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OK came home from riding my wife to work - car was stiffer but it rode quite nicely...also, it always tried to level itself, there were no info messages slow or similar, so I took it to the highway home (about 10-12KM) and it drove normally, no problems at all. Then I came home, and parked it and only then I noticed, that the rear of the car was at max while the front was on normal...could it be that I have broken height sensors only?
Gilbert - yeah I see that cable - I think that this cable that I took pictures of is really only for LPG - perhaps that is why guy at LPG service was unable to get comms with the system, thanks for this :D Just one question - regular ODB2 cable that I have will not function? The EAS comm is completely different?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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You really are tempting fate here.
You get EAS faults, then they go away.
It stays level, then it raises a corner.
It's doing everything it can to tell you "HEY! I'm not happy, fix me!" But you still drive it around without even looking to see if a height sensor is broken?
Bad EAS Karma is heading your way I fear......
Get under it, look at it, or take it somewhere ASAP. It is a piece of cake to work on the EAS with a cheap or free cable and free software. It's REALLY easy to get under the rig and physically look at each height sensor etc to see if one is broken.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You really are tempting fate here.
You get EAS faults, then they go away.
It stays level, then it raises a corner.
It's doing everything it can to tell you "HEY! I'm not happy, fix me!" But you still drive it around without even looking to see if a height sensor is broken?
Bad EAS Karma is heading your way I fear......
Get under it, look at it, or take it somewhere ASAP. It is a piece of cake to work on the EAS with a cheap or free cable and free software. It's REALLY easy to get under the rig and physically look at each height sensor etc to see if one is broken.

Martin
Martin, the EAS is present all the time, just been out to check the things I know. I will go under the car and see if the sensors are broken...I hope I will find the problem on my own. Today I cannot drive it anywhere to get it checked. The cable - regardless if it free or not - will be purchased, for future use (or this on that is going on right now). I know that I am getting "it" - gilbert warned my some time ago...I am not a mechanic and my knowledge is extremely limited but I am willing to learn and more then willing to do things on my own, at least the "simple" ones... Will post back my findings..
Thanks for all assistance guys, I really do appreciate it =)
 

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The LPG cable is purely for the LPG system, nothing else, an OBD cable is only for OBD, nothing else and an EAS cable is only for EAS and nothing else. You can't use one cable to talk to any other system. Even if you have something dedicated to the P38, like a Nanocom, while it may be able to communicate with the OBD and EAS (as well as a few other) systems, it still won't communicate with the LPG system as that isn't something fitted by the factory (and there are numerous different brands of LPG system that all need a different cable and software).
 

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The ELM readers can get very odd results from a P38. Wouldn't trust everything that comes from it. As Gilbert says the ODB socket looks standard but isn't so you need a special cable to connect to the systems. Without the EAS software you could be guessing an awful long while.
 
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