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Discussion Starter #1
Right side turn signals stay on when I pull the key from the ignition.
Also at idle, but NOT when I am moving the blinker the right blinker goes on (while switch is in the middle).
I thought it was a voltage issue at first.

BMW have a similar issue. I replaced the switch with from a spare truck I have and that did not fix it.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would start by switching out the light control module
That was going to be the plan. But I could not access the light control module in EAS to copy and code a replacement module.

I switched out the FSU for the hell of it and it did not fix the problem until I disconnected and reconnected the battery again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well problem came back. Blower motor still works. I will replace the LCM.

Is there a way to code it to my truck using RSW software?
 

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From what you describe it seems that the switch is stuck in the up (turn right) position. What happens when you pull down the switch to light the left blinkers? Do they flash and do the right ones then extinguish.

If not the switch itself then it could be single wire that connects it to the LCM being broken or having corroded connections.

You may want to apply the signal directly to the LCM to bypass the switch for testing. It is pin 30 on the C2040 connector of the LCM (and pin 9 of C1823 at the other end). This single wire determines whether left/right or off is selected by applying a different resistance to ground for each selection. I don't know what resistance gives which function though so you may need to experiment unless you can find this information elsewhere.

The blinkers staying on when the ignition off is just the parking light function. When all is working normally if you turn off the ignition with the switch in the upper position (turn right) the right blinkers (or sidelamps depending on market) will stay lit. Same can be done with the left lights. So to me it seems that the LCM simply thinks the switch is in the right turn position.
 

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Forgot to mention, check also the earthing point C0552, which is at the base of the RH A post, just in front of the bonnet release.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Forgot to mention, check also the earthing point C0552, which is at the base of the RH A post, just in front of the bonnet release.
Down left will work, up right and middle right. Hazard lights work but then become intermittent. I think the lcm gets confused and doesn't know which to use.
I will try it and report back. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was thinking there could be a pinched wire after replacing the blower motor. So I cut the 30 pin wire at the lcm and cut the wire at the blinker and used a jumper wire, that did not do anything. Also jumped the negative wire, also did not do anything.

I replaced the LCM with one from a spare L322 and no problems aside the tamper dot.

So I plugged the nonworkng one back in.

Is there a way to code an LCM to the truck using RSW?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sprayed the lcm with electrical contact cleaner and let it sit overnight. Everything works good for now.
I have PA Soft but the connector is not working, so I ordered a new one. Until then I will continue to use the "problematic" one. I don't want a tamper dot on my cluster.
 

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The problem is as likely to be with the harness connector as the connector on the LCM. The new one may work better simply because a new contact and a bad one works better than an old (but stll good) contact with a bad one. If the problem is in the harness connector the problem will come back soon enough with the new LCM.

I cannot recall what type of conenctors are used but it should be quite possible to clean both sides, preferably with a glass fibre brush.

The problem may also be due to leakage rather than than poor contact between the connectors. That can happen if the LCM ever got wet. A thin layer of conductive salts may build up brdiging the contact with others or the frame. So apart from cleaning the connector itself clean also throughly around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, tried that but nothing worked. I saw a little corrosion at the white connector side of the lcm pcb board, cleaned it and still having issues. I tried coding a replacement lcm with PA soft but it does not want to fully read the lcm information. And that is required in order to edit the mileage.

The problem is as likely to be with the harness connector as the connector on the LCM. The new one may work better simply because a new contact and a bad one works better than an old (but stll good) contact with a bad one. If the problem is in the harness connector the problem will come back soon enough with the new LCM.

I cannot recall what type of conenctors are used but it should be quite possible to clean both sides, preferably with a glass fibre brush.

The problem may also be due to leakage rather than than poor contact between the connectors. That can happen if the LCM ever got wet. A thin layer of conductive salts may build up brdiging the contact with others or the frame. So apart from cleaning the connector itself clean also throughly around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Found a piece of loose solder on the board. I got my soldering iron and removed it. I don't know where it came from or how I missed it before but everything works now except the lights on the cluster when I turn the signals or hazards on.
I am hoping it will reset itself. I disconnected the battery for a bit.
I will see how it goes.
 
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