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2006-2009 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hello all,

I'read the threads on this and many other owner forums but have still been unable to snyc any of the two keys. Some background.

This is my second MK2 and I bought it not long after it had the battery replaced. So it had the white screen on the SatNav (fixed) and no remote locking or unlocking. After 2years of using the key to unlock etc and foolishly thinking that if I resync the key I might experience RF interference and battery drain (Marty-NZ put me straight on that).

I've tried the normal methods e.g key in ignition as the RR is a 2001 but nothing then standing outside the unlocked RR then insert key push the unlock button, turn key to the lock position the return to the centre position and release the button but nothing. Even tried one from another forum whereby the key was inserted into the ignition in position 2 for 2 minutes and nothing.

Everything appears to be o.k. Even when the key is used the lights flash to arm and the dash indicator flashes. I have noticed that when the key is inserted into the ignition there's no flash from the fob I assume that's because the fobs aren't in sync with the RR.

This should be an easy fix which is makes it frustrating. This post is my last resort or it will be key only.

I've researched the for over a week, trying different methods so be gentle....


Garry
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Incorrect procedure. press and hold the lock button, turn to the right as if locking and hold at lock position for a couple of seconds. return to center and remove key. release lock button and then unlock with the remote.
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

I've tried the normal methods e.g key in ignition as the RR is a 2001 but nothing then standing outside the unlocked RR then insert key push the unlock button, turn key to the lock position the return to the centre position and release the button but nothing.
If you read the Owners manual you'd know that's wrong, you press the button for what your going to do with the key.

If the vehicle is unlocked already, then you press lock on the handset and then lock with the key. If it's locked already then you press unlock on the handset and then unlock with the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hi guys,

Thank you for your quick replies, I've tried both of these procedures but have done them quite quickly and haven't kept the key in the lock/unlock position for 2 or 3 seconds.

Other owner forums have had owners keeping the key in either position for as much as 10 to 15 seconds.

One procedure that I did not try was to insert the key In the ignition position 1 and press the lock and unlock buttons?

I'll be trying again tomorrow and post the results.
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Actually it does not matter which button you use, or which direction you turn the key, or how long you hold the key turned or the button held as long as it is within 30secs. The Becm senses any button press and monitors for any movement in the drivers lock (CDL) to sync. I have confirmed this.

Gjlatz, if this isnt working, then it is likely that your drivers door latch mechanism is faulty, the three microswitches in the door latch can only take a certain amount of slamming and after a decade or so give in. The problem is that you wont know until you:
a) cant sync or
b) get an engine immobilised issue

So don't get yourself into a low battery situation or an alarm problem, or you wont be able to get out of it!

Additionally, it could be your fob transmitter, or your RF receiver, or the wiring in between, test that set easily by doing this.
Also check the main connector between the car body and the drivers door, under the rubber boot.
Could be a door/bonnet/tailgate closed sensor not allowing sync?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hi glenhendry,

Just tried the revised re-syncing methods but no joy (as I expected). I never realised that the RR would not accept the EKA code if the fobs are out of sync. I started this reply to ask where the multi plug was that you refer to in your reply but have just realised that it must be in the tubular rubber boot. I've just had the door card off and the trim from under the steering wheel off looking for the plug DOH.

Once I disconnect it and check it out and try a re-sync again. If that doesn't work I'll also try pushing the fobs from inside the RR and see if the light glows on the gear shift
panel and this will prove the signal is getting to the BECM (I read that one from your attached links).

You weren't wrong when you say the mechanism was a nightmare to change. It took a minute to even find it tucked up there in the corner of the door.

Glenhendry, thank you for your reply and links that are very interesting reading indeed.

My fob issue is small fry in comparison after reading the problems experienced within the links.

Hopefully a further update over the weekend.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Well went out to the Rover tonight sat inside and waited for the red glowing light to go out on the gear shifter.


Once the red light went out I presed the fob buttons but the red light did not come back on. Not sure what that means yet. I'll have to buy a volt metre and test the voltage at the RF Receiver when the fob buttons are pressed.
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hi Garry,

Does the Red LED on the FOB come on when you press either the lock or unlock button? - just wondering if it could be a dodgy micro switch on the key FOB itself which isn't making a proper connection, and thus causing the remote to not transmit as it should..

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hi Marty,

When the buttons are pressed the led flashes on both fob 1 and 2. I can't remember if my other fobs from my previous 38 flashed when pressed or stayed on until the buttons where released.

So when I press any button the led flashes continuously.

Did you get your aircon sorted out in SNOG?

Garry
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hi Garry,

It sounds like the FOBs are working correctly, as when I press the button on my one and hold it, the LED flashes continuously until I let go of the button.
Do you have the RF receiver disconnected (power or antenna) due to BECM waking/battery drain issues? If the antenna is disconnected, you might need to plug it back in to get the RF signal strong enough to come through. Also, any aftermarket window tinting can reduce the range of the FOB (does on mine) and if the receiver is disconnected from the antenna, then it might be near impossible to get it to synch. (can't remember if you have tinting of not, sorry!)

I got the A/C working on SNOG, yes - replaced the compressor, and then got it re-charged - hey presto - cold air!... though I have noticed that there are some slight dye leaks around the compressor pipes... so I have a feeling I will have to get the system cleared of gas again and the O-rings changed - as I didn't do them when I replaced the compressor (probably should have - the old ones looked ok, and I lubed them up. But they have obviously got a kink or something in! Can't seem to find the size listed anywhere though!!

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

At least the fobs seem to be o.k. The RR has factory tints so will have to bear that in mind. I tried to look at the receiver earlier just by folding the rear driver side forward but will have to remove the plastic shelve/support to get into it and check that it is plugged in. Trying to eliminate as much as possible before replacing the lock mechanism.

Haven't seen the o rings from compressor unit before but hopefully their not a manufacturer part. I'm sure they'll be available somewhere. Maybe an owner from the Australian Land Rover Forum may had to replace these, hotter temps more use but I'm just guessing.

I'll check the RF receiver tomorrow.


Garry
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Yeah - done a google search on A/C O-rings for Thor Compressor and come up with zip... I can find a bunch of o-ring sizes on the lrcat site, but none of them are specified as to where they go in the system.

I've still got the old compressor, so will try and remember to measure the inlet ports up when I'm next at the rellies place (where my stash of used RR bits lives!) to try and find some... then it'll be another £40 trip back to the A/C guy to get the gas removed etc... think I might wait till next spring now.... haha!

The side trim comes off pretty easy - the later P38's have easier to remove trim fixings, and then there's just one pozi head screw beside the back seat (need to fold it down)
Then there's 3 pretty sturdy clips along the window line to gently prise the plastic up from, and voila - RF receiver in front of you!.

Just remember when putting the trim back on to line up/hold the rear seat release button so it pokes through... it's a bugger to realise you haven't got the button back in the hole in the trim - just as you're clicking the back seat upright again... learnt that one the hard way!!

If the receiver checks out ok and doesn't fix the problem, then it may be the door latch - or wiring to the outstation.. you can test the door latch in-situ once the door card is off. There's links in one of the other threads on door latches - but I can find it for you if you need.

Also another point to check is the wiring in the door jamb (inside the rubber housing). There's 3 connectors that poke into the vehicle-side, which can get green pins on them and can cause intermittent/lack of communication between the outstation (that the latch microswitches connect to) and the BECM..

Let us know what you find...

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

That's a pain having to get the A/C refilled again. I'm running mine in auto as the Range is only used maybe twice a week to take me shooting.

The fob issue wasn't a problem for me until glenhenry confirmed that if I have alarm issues I may not be able to use the EKA code on the Range.

I had the rubber boot off earlier in the week and there wasn't any conectors actually in the rubber boot but I could see a connector just behind the door jamb on the Range body. I should be able to get to them after taking the trim off from under the steering column.

I'll be looking at the RF receiver and the plugs tomorrow evening so fingers crossed. I might even get a chance to use my new Volt Metre soon.. The post above relating to fobs/alarms is very interesting aswell which makes me think that switch on my dash maybe an aftermarket security system due to the Range Rover one being disabled.

I'll search the forum for posts regarding how to test the door latch and hopefully test that soon.

Suppose I might have to live with the current setup If I can find out if the Range Rover security has been disabled.

It's a steep learning curve.

Regards
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Yeah, is a bit of a pain - but hey - if it gets it all sorted, then I'll be happy... It did initially hold a good vacuum and he filled it with nitrogen aswell, as that will escape from anything - and there were no leaks... So I'm guessing that it's a case of over a few heat/cool cycles and having the refrigerant piped around the orings have just given up :(

I wouldn't be too sure about having the security system on the RR disabled. Parts of it can be disabled in the BECM - but some element of immobilisation (eg when locked - whether with the key or remote) will still be present, so that if someone broke in and jammed a screwdriver in the ignition, or tried to hotwire the vehicle, then the engine would still not start.

The only time you won't be able to use the EKA is if the door latch is faulty - as this is the input for the BECM to recognise the EKA. The only other time it might not work is if the BECM freaks out and completely locks itself down - but this seems to be a fairly rare occurance, especially if you have the EKA. More possible if you have a faulty latch though, but in most cases - I think if the latch is subsequently replaced before the BECM goes completely gaga, then the EKA should work fine.

The connectors aren't in the rubber boot, no - but just inside the vehicle side of the bodywork. there is enough cable loom to pull them out (individually) through the hole in the bodywork. I don't think they will be easily accessibly with the footwell trim off as they're pretty high up! I pulled all 3 connectors on mine out yesterday evening through the hole and gave them a clean up/squirt with contact cleaner..

http://www.p38rangerover.com/central-locking/door-lock-actuator.html

That's a great page for testing all the door latch functions - they're all listed in the menu bar down the left hand side, with instructions and pictures :)

The switch on the dash... I'm still not convinced it's an aftermarket security system... I could be wrong... but I'm still putting my money on it being the power switch for the rear seat entertainment system.. one of the manuals I rear about rear seat TV screens showed there being a switch on the binnacle as a main power on/off - so that the driver could control the master power function, so it wouldn't drain the vehicle battery.

I would have thought that if there was an aftermarket security system fitted, then there would be an additional FOB for it, and I personally would have hidden the switch a bit more - so if it was broken into, then the theives couldn't just hit the 'off' switch...

I'm interested to hear what the switch does though... Maybe it's for the ejector seat?

If I'm ever up your way, I'll make sure I have my nanocom with me and I'll hook your RR up if you like and we can take a look at the security/immobiliser settings..

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Hi Marty, just out at the Range and the RF receiver was unplugged so plugged it back in but as I suspected it didn't make any difference. The red light on the gear selector went out after 2 mins so happy with that.

Took the three pin conectors out of the door jamb and opened them all up and they were all nice and clean. When I put the white conector back together I did hear a click from inside the door. It looks like I'll be checking the door latch over the weekend thanks to the excellent link you provided earlier, thank you.


I pressed the switch on the dash and nothing happened but when I put the key in the ignition and turned to Pos 1 and pressed the switch the radio went silent? I'll try it tomorrow when the Range will be taken out and used for a few hours.


Regards all and thank you for your continuing support and patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Well, just done the tests on the door lock mechanism with a volt metre (first time using) and when the lock position was changed from up to down my metre, for the want of a better word went nuts the values on the screen shot up and down.

The link kindly supplied by Marty confirmed that the metre should show an open circuit so my results confirm that the mechanism is at fault.

Marty, anytime you're up in the Edinburgh area let me know and hopefully we'll arrange a meet.

It's been a good week of fault finding and learning.

Many thanks to all.

Regards

Garry
 

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Re: Resync key fob (I know, not another fob thread) tried the usual methods.

Good to hear... well.. ish... Now you get the fun of replacing the door latch!

I've just bought a new one for Snog (which I'm not sure if it is actually faulty as it tests out OK - but now I've got it, I'm going to replace it - as the current one has done nearly 13 years service!

Island 4x4 is the cheapest I've found them - mine worked out at £100 inc VAT. Anything over £50 ex vat qualifies for free shipping too - which I thought was pretty good for a new genuine LR part :)

I'll let you know the next time I'm up in Edinburgh - I was up there about 6 months ago, but was busy all week :(

Oh, and I also got a door cam (£2.50 + vat) from Island 4x4 at the same time as the latch - my door handle doesn't fully return without a bit of help, and apparently the cam wears out causing that issue. So I figured if I'm going to have all the bits out anyway, I may aswell take the handle off and sort that too..

Part number is STC3064

There was a good thread on here somewhere which I need to look up again with pictures about the fix... Just thought I'd throw that out there aswell, in case you're having the same thing happen!

Regarding the 'switch' It could be the entertainment system powering up - I think there was an option of the system playing through the whole stereo, or it could be set to just the rear screen headphones.. I'll see if I can find the manual I read on the rear seat screens... it might actually be in RAVE somewhere (from memory)

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Well went out to the Rover tonight sat inside and waited for the red glowing light to go out on the gear shifter.


Once the red light went out I presed the fob buttons but the red light did not come back on. Not sure what that means yet. I'll have to buy a volt metre and test the voltage at the RF Receiver when the fob buttons are pressed.
Reviving this thread as I'm having a key fob issue. The performance degraded over time to the point of not working at all. I changed the batteries in the remote and the red light on the fob glows brightly and flashes as well. I've tried every sync method mentioned to no avail. The motor starts and the locks and alarm work with the key.

I read this passage about the BECM with interest and tested this myself. Pressing the fob does not trigger a response from the BECM as the red light on the shifter stays dark. Any ideas?

Thanks.
 

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your fob may be out of sync, I believe the gems had a difference sequence than the bosh and by the year on your signature, both of your rangies are Gems.
on the drivers lock, with vehicle unlocked and key in drivers lock, press the lock button on the remote while turning to the lock position. hold button until light on remote stops blinking.
immediately turn to unlock while pressing unlock button and waiting for light to stop blinking. now try remote. it should work, of course depending on drivers door lock and latch mechanism to be on good working order.
if not then repeat. beyond that it may be a reception issue.
 

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Thanks for that. This is for my ‘97. I gave that sequence a try, but no go. I’ve tried a bunch of combinations of things and notice that if I turn to lock twice in a row it goes into superlock mode. Also, the parking lights flash each time I turn the key. Does this rule out the microswitches in the door latch?

Do these RF modules go bad? I’m hoping it’s not the BECM. Haven’t had time for the multimeter, but that’s the next step.
 
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