"Ahem Ahem, Oh lost soul, let me bestow upon you my great wisdom!" Blah blah blah ok sorry on to the actual helpfulness
So no spark at the coil, are you certain? A good way to test is with an inline spark tester, super cheap from amazon, it plugs inline between the distributor and any of the wires and flashes (as your cranking) if there's a spark, no flashy, no sparky. If there is spark, the color of the spark matters too, you want a bright white spark. If you have a dull yellow/orange spark, it may not be enough spark to actually ignite the fuel and start the engine. So if there is spark, white spark good, orange spark bad
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If you have no spark, that could be a few things. It could be the the distributor cap or rotor are worn out, and should be replaced. this is likely the case if you have spark from the coil to the distributor, but nothing on any of the wires going to the plugs (check with the spark tester above). If there's no spark anywhere, it could be the ignition amplifier module, which is a little box on the side of the distributor. They are not the most reliable things and have a tendency to die without warning. They are pretty cheap and easy to find, and not too hard to replace. There is also a relocation kit that moves it away from the distributor so it doesn't get hot.
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In terms of the coil itself, measuring voltage across it is a bit tricky. If you disconnect the wire from the + side of the coil, with the ignition on you should see 12V on that wire (red wire from multimeter (set to DC volts) on wire, black wire on a ground, some exposed metal bit in the engine bay like a bolt). The wire on the negative side is not a ground, it goes to the ignition amplifier on the distributor, so you wont be able to get a reading on that. If you have 12V on the + wire, you can check the resistance across the coil to see if the coil itself is bad. Unplug the lead from the center of the coil, set the multimeter to resistance (ohms) and measure (with the ignition OFF OFF OFF) from the plus terminal to the center of the coil (inside where the spark lug lead connects). You should see several thousand ohms, likely more than 5,000 but less than 20,000. Then check the resistance across the + and - terminals, it should be a lot less, on the order of a couple ohms or less than one ohm. If the readings are wayy ff from these, the coil itself may be bad (not a super common failure, but an easy cheap fix).
I hope some of this was useful, if you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask, and let us know what you find out.