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Uhm like for which wheel?... model?...year?

Sorry to be a pain, but as an international site there are many variables. Let us know a few more details about what you are talking about and you will receive alot more answers.
 

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I forgot, location is a big thing to. Please fil lout your profile so we know which marjet your rig falls into. Again, it's not a PIA issue, it's a how do we help you issue. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sorry! 2003 range. i will be doing the rear soon and the front later. im guessing its the same for all for?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I took this from Microcat - with my reg which is a 2003 so should be the correct part numbers, but please verify.

Bearing (appears to be the same for front and rear) RLB000011 - £25.00 from first look
Seal (for the rear, doesnt seem to be one for the front) RBD000010 - £2.50 " "

Doesnt look overly complicated to do but RAVE does mention a LR Tool, probably a hub puller thing?:

Front




Rear

 

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Have changed a front wheel bearing, apart from the usual tools, you will need a puller to pull the hub off the drive shaft, also a ball joint separator. Once the hub is off you will need to press the old bearing out (I used a fly press) the old bearing will be destroyed when you press it out. Take care to align the new bearing with the hub before pressing it in. Whole job took about 2 hours. Hope this helps.
Stewart.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Have changed a front wheel bearing, apart from the usual tools, you will need a puller to pull the hub off the drive shaft, also a ball joint separator. Once the hub is off you will need to press the old bearing out (I used a fly press) the old bearing will be destroyed when you press it out. Take care to align the new bearing with the hub before pressing it in. Whole job took about 2 hours. Hope this helps.
Stewart.
Why is a ball joint separator needed?
 

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I did this about a year ago, the original owner of my RR lost the wheel lock key and broke one of the lugs off of each of the front wheels. I ended up purchasing parts 3123, 1104 and the necessary replacements to go along with that. It ended up being about 300 in parts, when a local shop quoted me 900 to do the job entirely. When it came to removing the bearing I had to take it to a shop to be pressed out, and because of the size of the control arm and it not laying flat it took them some time and added cost of about 300.

In theory this was an easy fix in reality it was a pain in the ass, and an extra cost to a shop for the time it took me and a friend to do it would have been well worth it.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I did this about a year ago, the original owner of my RR lost the wheel lock key and broke one of the lugs off of each of the front wheels. I ended up purchasing parts 3123, 1104 and the necessary replacements to go along with that. It ended up being about 300 in parts, when a local shop quoted me 900 to do the job entirely. When it came to removing the bearing I had to take it to a shop to be pressed out, and because of the size of the control arm and it not laying flat it took them some time and added cost of about 300.

In theory this was an easy fix in reality it was a pain in the ass, and an extra cost to a shop for the time it took me and a friend to do it would have been well worth it.
Hey Dmontez, what do you mean "and because of the size of the control arm and it not laying flat it took them some time and added cost of about 300". Didn't you just pull the hub off the knuckle and bring the hub to the shop? What would the control arm have to do with it?

Thank You
 

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Hey Dmontez, what do you mean "and because of the size of the control arm and it not laying flat it took them some time and added cost of about 300". Didn't you just pull the hub off the knuckle and bring the hub to the shop? What would the control arm have to do with it?

Thank You
You are correct, I mis-remembered. The knuckle, not the control arm would not lay flat on the press, and we had to take it to a specialized shop in order to press it out.
 

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The dust cover should be replaced. I dont remember when in the process but it either gets cut off, or bent out of shape. If I remember correctly my dealership suggested replacing them because they generally do not survive the process.
 

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Ok thanks. I am going to pass on changing the bearings at this point in time. I realized the noise I was hearing on the one of the back wheels is actually the caliper sticking. It is more of a faint intermittent hissing sound. After listening to bad bearings on youtube I realized a bad bearing has a very distinct grinding sound.

I thought it would be smart to do all the bearings since I have 135K miles and I wanted to freshen up the suspension, however in this case given the amount of work involved I am going to go with the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" motto. :lol:
 
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