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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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550 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I cleaned the oil separators and the valve cover breather lines. However, still having problems with a dripping front crank oil seal. The Seal should have been replaced when I got the engine from Car Cannibal with 80k miles and now it has done about 100k. Then again, they may have not used a genuine seal.
How hard is it to replace the seal on a 4.0 Gems engine? Just take the radiator out and use an Impact wrench on the big Crank nut? Any tips?
As for the correct seal, Car Cannibal converted a Bosch engine to a Gems setup for me. Is the Crank seal on this engine different to the Gems engine it replaced? To answer my own question, would it be correct to say: since the Oil pump and timing cover was changed for the Gems setup, I would be using the same seal I had on my original Gems engine?
 

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ERR6490 fits bosch and GEMS. The front seal is rather easy to nich if things aren't lubed up when sliding over the crank. Another possibility is that it was damaged when installing the crank pully during the conversion. Was the conversino done using new parts or off the shelf items from their wrecks? Keep in mind that although the engine has 80K who knows how many miles were on that front cover and seal.

Although the seal can be repalced in place, the front cover is not that difficult to remove for better working conditions. By removing the front cover you also have a chance to check/replace your oil pump gears, camsharft Oring and oil cooler Orings.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info.
I paid extra for their resealing service which included a new front seal. The engine was installed around Feb of 2008 and I have done close to 20k miles since. The leak only started about 3k miles ago which led me to believe that it may be an issue with the breather passages. My main concern was having enough room to get the big Crank nut off and work from there. Is there a better alternative to using an Impact Wrench where I can keep the radiator in place?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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550 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Dennis and a belated Happy Birthday.
How do you stop the Crank from turning? If using the Flywheel, any ideas how to block it?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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550 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Guys one more question, looking at the Rave, it doesn't mention anything about locking the Fly Wheel. Just says use a special tool bolted to the crank pulley. If I were to use a long breaker bar, how do I stop the Crank from turning?

sorry if this sounds dumb, both times I did it on the Mercedes I used an impact Wrench.
 

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a large screwdriver in the fly-wheel, assuming you don't want to spend on the (probably) $200 LR tool. . may take some fiddling to get it in right.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
I think I have a Flywheel lock tool I used on the FIAT. I will give it a try.

Thanks Dennis.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
I did this yesterday. All I needed was the top Radiator cowl, Fan and the Fly wheel cover off. My 36" Breaker bar with a 24mm socket took the Crank nut out with ease. Once the Fly Wheel cover is removed, jam a decent quality screw driver to stop the fly wheel from turning (RH Top corner when loosening and LH Top corner when tightening). Take special care not to damage any Crank sensor "U" 's (This may be different on your model). The Fly wheel cover has 2X13mm and 4X10mm bolts. The 10mm bolts have 8mm heads. I rounded one 8mm head and had to chisel it out. Off to get some decent quality 10mm bolts with larger heads this morning.
I used a 2/4" Torque wrench to tighten the nut to 200 Ft/Lbs.
It turned out the new crank seal that supposed to have been replaced by Rover Cannibal 2 years ago (as part of their $320 resealing service) when I purchased one of their engines, was so hard that it etched a ring round the Crank Pulley. At least I found the cause of my oil leak.
A Fine graded Emery paper and some elbow grease took most of the etching out and after replacing the seal, the leak is gone.

Thanks to Dennis and RRTH for their advise,
 
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