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Discussion Starter #1
So, I still have the original door latch installed in my vehicle and the key lock still functions as it should, but I can no longer sync my key fob (for opening and closing doors. Not the ignition) after the main battery in the vehicle has been disconnected.

I'm guessing that the key fob sync is not happening, due to the failed micro switch inside the door latch.

Anyways, let me know if there are any pointers out there that I should be aware of while doing this job. I looked at RAVE, but the description of the procedure is pretty thin, so I wanted to confirm the procedure here first.

Here's what my research shows I should do:
-Disconnect battery.
-Have a window or two open just in case.
-Pull tweeter off by pulling on it.
-Remove door card, generally starting from towards the front end of it. Also, remove several screws and arm rest, etc.
-Remove door latch cable connected to the inside handle.
-Remove inside door lock attachment tab, leaving the connecting wire in place.
-Remove the door latch assembly.
-Wiggle around and disconnect the door latch wire connected to the outside door handle.
-Remove the door latch assembly.
-For re-assembly, generally the reverse of the disassembly procedure.

Let me know if I missed something.

Also, after I do this job does the BECM go into lock down mode, or a situation where I need to enter EKA?

Thanks
 

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Close but a couple of pointers. Before doing anything make sure the car is unlocked, with alarm and immobiliser off (in a state where you can start the engine), drivers door open and window closed. Disconnect battery (not strictly necessary although not a bad idea). Pull tweeter housing off and remove screw behind it. Undo the two screws underneath the arm rest (arm rest stays attached to the door panel). Undo the screw in the centre of the interior door handle housing and remove the housing from around the handle. Remove door trim by starting at the bottom and pulling it off. Unplug the speaker wires to the mid range speaker. Unhook the interior handle cable at the latch (release the outer and the inner will wiggle out of the nylon crank, although you this find this is easier to do if you wait until the latch is unboilted and flapping around inside the door). Release the rod from the exterior handle by rotating the red plastic clip and the rod pulls out. Undo the Torx screw that holds the exterior handle to the door, listen for the clunk as the steel spacer that fits between the inner and outer door skins falls into the bottom of the door (you might be lucky and it stays in place but it only does sometimes). Push the exterior handle forwards and it will release at the back so you can pull it out and get to the rod that attaches to the back of the lock. Carefully release that from it's clip (don't use too much force as you can snap the crank off the back of the lock or damage the clip). Unscrew the plastic knob from the top of the sill locking rod. Undo the 3 Torx screws that hold the latch in place, drop the latch down and rotate it so it comes out. Unplug the two electrical connections.

As you say, refitting is the reverse but make sure all the Christmas tree clips are attached to the door panel and not still in the door and fish the steel spacer out from the bottom of the door and put that in place between the two door skins. Don't forget to reconnect the mid range speaker. Reconnect the battery and it will still be in the same state you left it, unlocked with alarm and immobiliser off.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The most delicate part of the operation is dissconnecting the the rod from the crank on the door lock mechanism (as mentioned). That crank is just zinc alloy and very weak. What I have done is use a very small screw driver, 1/8 wide blade, to pry open the clip holding the rod in place. Stick the screwndriver into the clip and then twist sidewys to open the clip. I did have a hard time fishing the latch out of the door on one occasion for some reason but other than releasing the door lock crank it is all pretty straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks all. Got the replacement door latch already from Island 4x4, but getting me nervous as the attachment points all look so frail.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Just take your time and don't force anything. It should just come apart fairly easily. The plastic clips that you flip up to release some of the rods seem to be fairly robust.
To disconnect he rod from the door lock mechanism I seem to recall that once you slid the door handle back you can pull the whole assembly out of the door an inch or two for better visibility and access.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Does anyone have a picture of where exactly you should cut the (extraneous) metal arm off the replacement latch to make re-entry easier ? This for a 1998 LHD RR.
 

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Just cut it off level with the outside of the latch body, it does nothing at all. One theory is that it is used when the same latch is used in a different car but the only car that uses the same latch is the MGTF but a latch for those doesn't have the extra bit of metal......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to report back that the replacement went without a hitch and was a success. Thanks all for guidance.

When putting the latch back on, I pre-installed the rod for the inside door lock and the rod that goes to the outside door lock. I was able to position the door latch with the two rods installed without any issue. Also, there was no need to cut anything off the replacement latch to position the latch in place.
 
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