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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace the CV Boot on one of my axle shafts. I have a few questions for anyone who's done this themselves.

I will have the axle shaft completely removed while performing ball joint replacement.

1) How does the axle/CV Joint come apart to allow the fitment of the boot? It appears that the boot will not fit over the CV section so the joint must have to be disassembled?

2) Any tips on cutting/removing the large end metal band?

3) Do I use the standard CV Joint grease spec'd/sold for the Classic Joints? and how much is used?

Thanks!
 

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I just did this on my 2001, as the joint itself had gone bad. Be sure that the joint on yours is not damaged due to the boot issue, or you'll be doing this again; it is not a fun job!

The joint must be removed from the shaft. It is press fitted. After pounding furiously (This is actually how the local dealer does it!), for god-only-knows how long, I found a hydraulic press to help me with the extraction. There are serious drawbacks to the get-a-big-hammer-and-pound technique: You'll probably irreparably damage the CV joint itself (at least I did, but was inconsequential for me since I was also replacing the joint), and may damage the metal dust shield which is also press fitted to the axle shaft. An errant swing could also damage the splines on the shaft.

I would use a press first, not second, but even that may damage the CV joint. Be prepared with another new joint in case of damage and while you're at it, it would't hurt to buy a new oil seal as well. They're only about nine bucks. Finally, if there is any chance the your dust shield is bent--even slightly--replace it. A damaged dust shield will cause a diff oil leak.
 

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Hi.
I had to do one of mine several months ago. I assume that you are just going to pull out the axle shafts/cv as a complete assembly.
Cutting off the old steel bands is a piece of cake with a hack-saw - you are not trying to save the old boot. Just be careful about how hard you cut so as not to go right through into the housing.

I installed my new boot by pulling it all the way along the inner axle from the diff-spline end. Getting the cvs apart can be a bit of a nightmare so I left mine as one piece. Then just use the new steel bands (should come with the new boot) and tighten them when in place.

I just used the sachets of grease that came with my boot. I do remember being told that they need a special grease - not just regular grease. My old classic had oil in the swivel housings so I can't comment on that one.

As an afterthought do you intend to remove the hub and axle shafts as one assembly? Have you done it before? There are other threads about how to go about it - a mechanically easy job but requires a LOT of patience.

Cheers
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response guys!

Rowant- Did the boot narrow end stretch enough to fit over the dust shield? (as Cort mentions, the little disc pressed onto the shaft that runs against the axle housing oil seal) I was assuming it wouldn't. If it does then all is well. :thumb:

I've already managed to replace the drivers side ball joints (removing the hub with axle and replacing seal, etc.) but the passenger side hub just wouldn't come free from it's yoke and I damaged the CV boot attempting to bash it free with a sledge :oops: . Thus, I have this extra project when I do finally get the hub out.

Cort- Hoping the CV hasn't run dry enough to go bad. Made a temp repair (shoe goo) to the boot to hopefully hold what grease was left in there.

Guess I'll go with the Classic CV grease since there doesn't seem to be any info on this (that I've found yet), and the stuff that drooled out when I damaged the boot kinda looked the same. The CV boot kit I'm looking at getting doesn't appear to include a packet of grease.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
Worked on the CV Boot replacement tonight. Couple notes for those who may follow...

-Boot will in no way stretch enough to fit over the dust shield.
-Couldn't see any obvoius way to disconnect the CV joint (still good), so I elected to press off the dust shield. Had the use of a rather large press and it came off without much fight. With that out of the way the boot easily slid up the shaft and over the joint.
-Discovered I needed a couple special tools to crimp the boot clamps. Crap! Will have to pick them up tomorrow.
-Four sachets of grease came with the replacement boot kit... got an unnecessary bag of Classic CV grease. :doh:
-Found a wire C- clip in the boot replacement kit. I have no idea where it goes.

At this point I'd give anything to see an exploded view of the CV assembly. I've got an impending feeling of having missed something really obvious with this extra part...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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This video is excellent: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0

Our CV joints are similar to the "outer" CV joint in the video. Do not mess with the axle seal/tophat/dustshield! That's unnecessary and error prone. As shown in the video above, the CV joint can be completely removed from the axle shaft without much trouble. Mine came off easily with a few taps from a framing-type hammer. I definitely did not need to bang on it with my 5lb hammer; just a few good taps with a lighter hammer compressed the retainer c-spring-clip and the whole CV joint slid off the splines. Reassembly is similar to the video above. A few good taps with a lighter hammer and the CV joint will compress the retainer and then it will easily slide up the splines. The CV joint actually clicks into place when it has been fully installed. I imagine there is a groove inside the CV joint that matches up with the location of the retainer c-spring-clip. It ended up being a lot easier than I thought it would be when I first started. Now I just need to get some clamp pliers.
cv1.jpg cv2.jpg cv3.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I made up a special tool to separate the CV joint.

It is just a short section, about 18", of 4" steel pipe to go over the joint and a piece of flat bar with a hole in it.

Clamp the shaft in a vice. Put the pipe over the joint and tighten the axle nut against the flat bar and the pipe so it pulls the joint apart. A single tap usually helps it on its way. Works a treat.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,225 Posts
Good info and good pictures!

I managed to replace just the CV boot by getting it over the dust shield with the CV in place.. think the CV will need to be done at some point though, so will be using this info!

Cheers,
Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
Awesome :clap: Couple years late, but next time I'm faced with this job I'll have a clue. I gotta wonder though, these boots must be made of varying flexibility of rubber depending on the supplier. There was absolutely no way I could have stretched mine over the dust shield, but Marty isn't the first guy on this forum that used that very method. Thanks for the vid and info.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I did both of mine last year, took me about an hour to do both sides, mind you, I did take a break for a cup of tea and a smoke! I used a product from England called a stickyboot! It is basically a split boot, simply cut the old one off, install stickyboot and use the special glue to seal it along the split! 20,000 miles later and still good! Just google stickyboot and read up on them, I have no affiliation other than being very happy with their products for many years!
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My one was a standard britpart item..

I cut the old one off, then put the CV boot on from the half-shaft (diff) end. Slid it all the way down, and then used a couple of flat-head screw drivers to slowly prise the boot over the dust shield. It took a while to do, and there were a couple of times where I thought that it wouldn't actually go, but got there in the end. I did attempt first to knock the CV off the shaft as that would have been a LOT quicker/easier..

However, my CV didn't want to just pop off, and since I was having to use the RR (didn't have time to wait for a new CV to arrive if I damaged the old one), I figured I'd try the prising it over the dust shield method...

I think the CV itself will actually require replacing at some point, as I have a bit of an occasional clunk when turning (though need to check the other suspension/steering components too).. and those pics posted before will be invaluble!

Cheers,
MArty
 

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I haven't done a Rover CV but lots of cars. Never once used a hammer. On many cars you can use the axle bolt once the shaft is pulled from the hub by re-threading until its hits the axle shaft and pushes the joint apart. Its not even worth pulling the axle. On other cars w/o axle bolts, I have used a gear puller with a bolt shoved thru the half shaft. The Rover half shaft is long so you would have to get a longer bolt and either use a long puller or use the axle nut to anchor a plate on the half shaft. Then connect the puller to the plate and crank away. I like to pull the joint so it can be cleaned up and re-greased. If the joint isn't clunking yet, new grease will keep it going for a long time. I doubt joint ever wear out if the boot keeps grease in there. It really is a very heavy joint.
 

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Easier to use a length of 4" pipe like I did.
 

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Dear All,
I will be doing my CV on wednesday. I've oredered a new axle oil seal but because i can't find any schematics anywhere i'm not certain of how / what holds the seal in place? It looks from the photos various people have posted that the seal is held in place behind the dust seal which is press fitted onto the outer end of the driveshaft?

so the seal goes in first, then halfshaft with newly installed CV and boot? I don't have the metal band crimping tool so would a large stilson suffice or should i use zip ties until i can get the right crimper?

Amazed at the difference in replacement parts prices, Britpart is £30, OEM is £100 and Land Rover £330. I've gone for th Britpart part. What would others do?


Many thanks
Paul C
 
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