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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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****, gotta replace mine as well by the look of things.
I've read a previous post where you pull the radiator out from below after putting the car on it's highest setting. Seems a simple job.
Anyone else attempted a radiator swap on a Thor engine?
Anything to watch out for?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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786 Posts
Changed mine a month ago. A very straight forward job. Two bolts on the sides of the rad at the bottom, accessible from under the car. Remove top section of fan cowl and the two clips securing the main cowl section to the radiator. The cowl locates in a grove at the bottom of the radiator so needs to be lifted slightly and moved rearwards. Top and bottom hoses and expansion tank bleed hose off. The rad then gets pulled upwards to release from its mountings and removed from the top not the bottom.

The only awkward part is getting the lower outlet past the fan cowl.
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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5,421 Posts
I pull the fan and the fan cowl off. Replacing the radiator is dead simple on a P38A. Much easier than any other LR I've owned.

PDX, I can't comment on that rad but I suspect my new one is Chinese - on the label, "coolant" is spelled "coolent". :(

You may not remember me but we met back in May when rrtoadhall and I had breakfast with your wife. (Now that will get tongues wagging! :lol: )
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice, I think i'll give it a shot, see how it works, and post results. p38a - Did you have any overheating issues with your new radiator?

p.s. I don't have a wife.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One more question. Does anyone know if there is a difference in radiators between a 96 GEMS and say a 99 Bosch? These ones on ebay say they fit 95-99. What are the odds thats correct?
 

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LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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pdxRR said:
p38a - Did you have any overheating issues with your new radiator?

None at all.

pdxRR said:
p.s. I don't have a wife.
Ahh! Well it was Elsa from PDX Rovers. We met the owner of PDX at the workshop and then Carl and I headed off for breakfast.

Is PDX the IATA code for Portland? Best I go and look..... Aha! It is. :oops:

I wondered why you were asking questions he should have known. :D
 

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1,702 Posts
I looked up which way to turn the nuts and with the help of this site swapped the Rad myself (cheap local aftermarket about two years ago - still ok).

Just for my own peace of mind, I bribed a semi competent mate with a few bottles of pop to hang around and did the job myself - It's that easy :thumb:
 

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135 Posts
i did a lot of research when replacing mine and replaced it with:
Silla Cooling Systems
Radiator for a 1999 Range Rover 4.6
Silla 7867A
I can't recall what it cost but it was by far the cheapest in my research and a direct fit. Call Silla direct. You can get it cheaper if you get a shop to do it though.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,365 Posts
Isn't it good when a piece of kit talks to you like that?

I've been thinking about have a radiator made here - metal tanks, plenty of fins and tubes, and with a drain cock!

It is a pity we have to re-engineer stuff like this which could have been made "properly" in the first place....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got my ebay radiator and it looked pretty decent quality wise. It had no markings on it of any kind, but it had the same mold patterns as the one i took out. I ran a hose through it to check the flow, and as far as i could tell it was ample. The old radiator was quite a bit heavier, made of copper? Its painted black, and i haven't dissected it yet.

I went ahead and put the new radiator in yesterday afternoon. It was surprisingly easy to do, about an hour job, i would highly recommend it to anyone considering doing it themselves. (Thanks “ghur”- your brief instructions were surprisingly helpful).

Now comes my problem:. Initially it seemed to work very well, no overheating at idle. However, as i've been driving it today i did notice that the temp gauge keeps creeping up almost to red line. I felt all of the hoses and they are all hot except the bottom hose coming from the radiator to the thermostat. Is that hose supposed to be hot? It doesn't seem like coolant is flowing through there, and its sort of an important one. Do I have a bad thermostat? Should I look at the water pump? Please HELP.
 

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Are you sure you "bleed" the system correctly when you refilled it to vent any air trapped in the system?.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I took the bleeder hose off at the radiator and filled the expansion tank until I saw coolant come out of the top of the radiator. But that’s all I did. Did I miss something? I searched the forum, couldn’t find much else about it.

Anyone gracious enough to explain the coolant fill/bleed procedure?
Can thermostats go bad typically?
Should the lower hose be warm when experiencing over heating?
 

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You need to Blow through the bleeder hose to clear it first, Not saying that is your problem but may be part of it.



Cheers
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I have found that once the coolant is re-filled it helps to "burp" the system. Leave cap off and grab the top hose with two hands and squeeze, hold and release it many times. The more of the hose you can squeeze the better. In two second cycles if you get my drift. A lot of air comes out this way followed by topping up until it stabilises. Another give away to an incorrectly bled system is the heater does not function. The heater hoses in the engine compartment should start to feel warm to the touch very soon after starting.
 
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