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Replacing Bosch Coil Packs on an 02 4.6

23278 Views 25 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  getlost4x4
Hey all I am about to do this myself---anything special i need to be aware of? Do i need to take the intake off? i dont see the packs, i thought they were on the backside of the engine by the firewall.

Thanks!
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RAVE has step by step directions with pics.
oops-forgot to mention I have rave, but it's on my windows machine and i'm working from my MAC... :roll: so i can't pull it up.
then change computers. :roll: :mrgreen:
hahah toadie...not that easy,,,long story...move, pc is stashed, etc etc.
Yes the top inllet has to come off to get thecoils out. They are indeed at the back of the engine held on by 4 bolts, two of which are well hidden with the upper manifold inplace.

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****. and removing the intake consists of?
why are you changing them? Thinking of changing mine as well - I suspect that they are somehow faulty - not enough "umpfh" in the car and the sparkplugs and cords are ok - car has done 175.000 km - 4.6 V8 MY2000.

Have experienced total loss of propulsion for under a secondsometimes at speeds around 130 - 140 km/h - never found any fault codes - oh boy would I like to have that opportunity as in a NAS car - getting a faultcode...


The picture shown above - is that not a GEMS?
Ferdinand said:
The picture shown above - is that not a GEMS?
Definitely a Thor.
afox04 said:
****. and removing the intake consists of?
Disconnecting stuff and pulling bolts.
Disconnecting stuff and pulling bolts.
`)

really? toadie? "captain obvious, checking in from the bridge...If you look outside, the sky is blue." :lol:

i need instructions on pulling manifold on a bosch....anyone other than toadie? :clap:
afox04 said:
...If you look outside, the sky is blue.
Nope, it is dark grey.


Really? You already have RAVE but don't want to get the computer out that it is housed on? RAVE will give you far more detail and be much quicker than asking a dozen questions and waiting for answers. Have you used search yet on this topic? Have you reviewed home page to see if there is anything? Apologies, but I simply do not understand people that have all the tools at their disposal that insist on asking people to spoonfeed them. :naughty:
:crybaby2: whoa buddy. don't lambaste me. Im on the forum trying to get a smooth answer. the tools you speak of are not at my fingertips as you suggest. i'm trying to get the answer without driving to a storage unit multiple miles away (with a borrowed car) and digging through boxes to find a rave cd that may or may not be there or in the garage here at home. gosh. I was hoping someone has done it multiple times and was willing to say "remove x, watch out for wire harness breaking on y, disconnect z, and you're there. "

I wasnt expecting you to download the manual, pdf me the pages, and provide me with marked up diagrams brother!

I'm not a rookie here, but i did do a search and didnt find it exactly. i DID figure that someone like you might know that link offhand or has done dozens and has a few choice pieces of advice.

now that we have THAT out of the way, if anyone other than toadie has experience on this open forum of how I can easily navigate my way through the removal of the manifold on a bosch engine, your guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Bummed out Range Rover p38 owner who comes to forum looking to chat with experienced fellows and gets railed by our admin guy. Can't wait to run into another problem on my Rangie now! :doh:
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w/o pics, It's kinda hard, but here are the steps.

Remove hoses connected to:
Intake hose
Throttle body
Remove harnesses from the intake manifold:
coolant line
engine harnesses
Remove 6 bolts on top of the intake manifold.

Now, the above is not complete, but as you go through it, should be obvious as what needs to be done.

BTW, if you're removing the intake manifold, make sure you've purchase the intake manifold gasket.

Regards,
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Theo,

That's all i was looking for. thanks a ton. :clap: :clap: :clap:

I also found some photos as part of an engine rebuild.http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/engine-refresh/
great for details with photos. thanks for that overview though. I definitely won't be too worried about changing it out. Looks like a universal socket will be helpful to reach those bolts in back.
While you are going to the trouble of removing the upper manifold take the opportunity to check and clean the valve in the rocker breather.
I just had to replace the coil packs this past weekend (P0304 code).
But ended up not having to remove the upper intake manifold.
Here's how I did it.
The objective is to remove the SAI hard pipe between the EGR valves, once this is gone there is enough room to remove the coil packs one at a time without resorting to removing the upper intake manifold.
After removing the throttle cabling, vacuum lines, flexi SAI lines and other stuff to make it easier to get to the back of the engine while lying on top of it. Next remove the bracket that holds the main wiring harness to the engine, then disconnet the SAI hard pipe from the EGR valves and and now you can set to work on the bracket that hold this pipe to the block.
If you remove the 2 nuts first that hold the bracket to the pipe you can then get at the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. Once this bracket is out of the way you can wiggle the pipe out over the top of the wiring harness. Once that's out of the way you have enough room to undo the 3 bolts per coil pack and you can wiggle the coils out and replace them without any trouble.
Hope this helps.
Only basic tools needed 8mm, 10mm sockets (use 1/4" as space is a bit tight) and wrenches, screw driver, a couple of hose clamps, a mirror on a "stick" helps to see what's going on back there and a magnet on a "stick" helps re-capture errant nuts.
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I just had to replace the coil packs this past weekend (P0304 code).
But ended up not having to remove the upper intake manifold.
Here's how I did it.
The objective is to remove the SAI hard pipe between the EGR valves, once this is gone there is enough room to remove the coil packs one at a time without resorting to removing the upper intake manifold.
After removing the throttle cabling, vacuum lines, flexi SAI lines and other stuff to make it easier to get to the back of the engine while lying on top of it. Next remove the bracket that holds the main wiring harness to the engine, then disconnet the SAI hard pipe from the EGR valves and and now you can set to work on the bracket that hold this pipe to the block.
If you remove the 2 nuts first that hold the bracket to the pipe you can then get at the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. Once this bracket is out of the way you can wiggle the pipe out over the top of the wiring harness. Once that's out of the way you have enough room to undo the 3 bolts per coil pack and you can wiggle the coils out and replace them without any trouble.
Hope this helps.
Only basic tools needed 8mm, 10mm sockets (use 1/4" as space is a bit tight) and wrenches, screw driver, a couple of hose clamps, a mirror on a "stick" helps to see what's going on back there and a magnet on a "stick" helps re-capture errant nuts.
I replaced the coil packs on a 2001 Range Rover using this guide and it saved pulling the top off the inlet manifold.

Great tip, I owe you a drink mate.
remove the secondary air crap. put the hood in service position. throw away the two lower bolts. Takes all of 10 minutes for me to swap them out now. I never pull the upper plenium.
Thw hood in service position means moving it to its vertical position I think you disconnect the struts and loosen a bolt at each hinge point and push up. Probably a good idea to keep an eye on the plug wire locations
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