I just had to replace the Fuel pump assembly in my 4.4L 06 HSE this weekend after the pump died in Maine on Monday. My pump open circuited, verified all the way down to the terminals on the actual pump motor, so the rest of the unit is fine. I see no reason to just trash an 800 dollar fuel pump assembly if I can find an equivalent fuel pump (the actual little 1 1/4" pump in the pump assembly) to put inside it. Has anyone found a suitable replacement that puts out 65 psi that can just be swapped into the housing? Don't know what the required flow rate would be, wild guess would be around 300 Lph. The ones in the BMW pumps only put out about 50 psi so I cant use one of those.
Do you have the part number (Bosch?)?
You might try contacting Quantum Fuel Systems to see if they have a replacement. They had a pump for my 2000 P38. They only list a pump for the 2006 LR3 and Sport but then they don't show anything for P38 so who knows.
You have little different fuel system on 4.4. We dont have on 4.2 fuel return pipe but you have. And the pump is little different said by a russian mechanic. But still I didn’t saw a 4.4 fuel pump.
You can try a pierburg high performance pumps. The oem one must be a vdo.
You have to bypass electrical connector and everything will be ok.
My friend install this one
WALBRO F90000262 400LPH UNIVERSAL RACING FUEL PUMP IN TANK W-INSTALLATION KIT.
You have golden hands and i am sure you can deal with this.
And you are lefty i thing
I think in an old post of mine, I did this swap with info included. Turn your phone off and have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case. Mine tank was nearly full when I had to get my hands in there.
Thats probably the same pump, the LR3 and the sport have the same engine, just all the other plastic parts and level sensors are different.
My tank had about 25 gallons of in it when I started at about 35 degrees F. I had two 5 gallon lawn mower gas cans, and I went out and bought one of those roll around 14 gallon ones with a filler nozzle on it (for filling boats, snow mobiles etc) and I have a little battery powered harbor freight barrel pump, so I pumped the tank down completel empty on the left side where the main pump lives, and dropped the right side where the jet pump lives down to about 4" because the jet pump is easy to dislodge from its mounting sockets while the main pump is a bear to get loose. Took about 2.5 hrs to drain replace and refill, put the rug back down and generally reinstall all the trim, cover panels and load all the junk I leave in the truck back in. Now I've got this perfectly good RR fuel pump assembly with the level sensors and everything just sitting for the want of a 50 to 100 dollar pump module.
Eerks me to have to toss the whole thing away, those level sensor cost over $100 each from LR. I know theres a pump out there that will just slide back into place and work fine. I'm going to disassemble the plastic barrel part that the pump sits in tonight and see if I can get the pump out of the hole it in without snapping something off.
Thats probably the same pump, the LR3 and the sport have the same engine, just all the other plastic parts and level sensors are different.
My tank had about 25 gallons of in it when I started at about 35 degrees F. I had two 5 gallon lawn mower gas cans, and I went out and bought one of those roll around 14 gallon ones with a filler nozzle on it (for filling boats, snow mobiles etc) and I have a little battery powered harbor freight barrel pump, so I pumped the tank down completel empty on the left side where the main pump lives, and dropped the right side where the jet pump lives down to about 4" because the jet pump is easy to dislodge from its mounting sockets while the main pump is a bear to get loose. Took about 2.5 hrs to drain replace and refill, put the rug back down and generally reinstall all the trim, cover panels and load all the junk I leave in the truck back in. Now I've got this perfectly good RR fuel pump assembly with the level sensors and everything just sitting for the want of a 50 to 100 dollar pump module.
Eerks me to have to toss the whole thing away, those level sensor cost over $100 each from LR. I know theres a pump out there that will just slide back into place and work fine. I'm going to disassemble the plastic barrel part that the pump sits in tonight and see if I can get the pump out of the hole it in without snapping something off.
I bought the VDO brand pump, and a new filter/tank cover. The only physical difference between it and a LR version is that it does not use the short connector harness between the pump and the fuel filter, the pump (and level sensor) wire connector plug directly into the fuel filter (which it the right tank cover on the 06-09's). A LR harness has a short (4-5 inch) harness that adapts the internal tank harness (which has a larger connector) to the filter feedthru connector which is smaller. Don't know why they do that, because the last time i had an issue with my pump it was one of those connectors that caused it.
VDO used to make good electrical products, so we will see it I made a good choice and it lasts a long time , or if I should have stuck with the LR version, although I have now replaced two LR pumps in my truck.
Here what the fuel pump looks like when you get it out of the bowl in the right side of the tank.
It's kind of an odd setup. The pump apparently has a low pressure outlet on the bottom where the white plastic piece attaches. That low pressure outlet feeds an eductor that pushes fuel out the larger tube on the left side of the picture. I think this setup allows for just about every drop of fuel thats available in the tank can get used.
The fuel comes in the swirl pot under that white plastic part on the bottom where the black gasket is. That sits over a hole and passage attaches to the fuel filter on the outside of the swirl pot. Fuel that comes out the large white tube circulates around inside the swirl pot and enters the pump through that gold bag on the right and goes thru the plastic passage at the base of the pump and is discharged out the top two hose barb connections. The small one feeds the jet pump (eductor) on the left side of the tank, and the larger one feeds the fuel filter bowl assembly in the right side access cover.
I think I have found a direct replacement, it comes from an 06-2014 Volkswagon CC.they put out 4 Bar at 120-130LPH and I think they dead head at 80 PSI, hard to get exact specs for the VW pump. They run between $20 and $30 each. I'm going to order one and see if it is a direct fit or not.
New pumps (2) arrived Friday. Visually they look 95% the same (the hose barb for the smaller feed line to the jetpump is different but the hose fits on it). Now I'm going to have to set one up to check flow and pressure against an OEM one. If it is the same this pump (from China of course) is only about 25 dollars plus shipping). Original is on the right, new on the left
Bottom View new on left, original on right.
Top View, Original on left, new on right (fuel line has a rubber cap on it)
Even came with a new in pump filter element. Dark one is the used original one.
Well my brand new VDO fuel pump lasted exactly 237 days and probably 5000 miles. Left me stranded in North Conway today (yesterday as I write this), setting a new long distance tow record for me of 168 miles to get me home. Good thing it died in N Conway because 2 hours earlier we were on the top of Mount Washington. Would really suck to have to get towed off that mountain. Once again no sign the pump was going bad, right up until it didn't start, it would fire on the first few revolutions of the engine, never cranking more than 2 seconds, and then it was dead. Get to start pulling it out tomorrow. Luckily it has a 12 month warrantee so at least the next pump won't cost me anything, other than the 3 hour tow. Might try the reassembled old assembly with the replacement VW pump in it, before the next pump gets here, because it probably won't arrive before wednesday.
Turns out its not the pump itself (maybe) it appears to be the connector on top of the fuel filter housing. Either the feedthru in the filter itself, or the connector on the wiring harness. As I was pulling it apart I started checking voltages at the connector before opening the tank. I must have wiggled the connector slightly because when I turned the key the pump started and so did the truck. This is after no starts on Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Don't know what is worse, a blown up pump where you are sure of the problem or a wonky connector that can loosen up at anytime in the future. Now I have to pull the connector apart and clean it up, pack it with dielectric grease and put it back together and hope for the best.
Mark, Wish I would have seen your first post on this earlier. I bought a Hella Pierburg7.50138.00.0.
I'm curious what you did for the hose clamp when you replaced the pump. That was my only gotcha. It's an oetiker clamp and I couldn't find one in that size locally so I had to use a worm jubilee clamp which I always worry about. A fuel line zip tie would probably have been a better replacement typical to what is found in marine applications, Mercury Marine sells them. The difference between their zip ties and regular zip ties is the base of the zip tie has a an angle to provide clamping around the circumference. But an oetiker clamp would be more correct.
I wonder if one of the connectors you posted 6mo ago would work. I book marked that when you posted it:
I was just told by the dealership that this piece is connected to the wiring harness and the connector cannot be replaced without replacing the entire wiring harness. my understanding is the cable comes from the wiring harness and connect to the fuel pump see pictures as you can see it’s fried...
Thats a different pump design than mine, mine is for an 06-09 4.4L the Hella pump looks like its for an 02-05 BMW 4.4L. I have the crimp type connectors to use on my pump. I am waiting for a replacement pump discharge line to arrive, as the plastic corregated one that came off of it won't go back on because I cut the last 1/2" of the line off where it slides over the hose barb fitting on the pump and the corregated section of line is a slightly smaller diameter and won't go back on the pump. So I ordered a Dormann 8mm fuel line repair kit that comes with the quick disconnect (to attach to my filter module) on one end and just an open end on the fuel line to slip over the pump. I will put the crimp on hose clamp over that and I should be all set.
The replacement fuel filter modules seem to have smaller pump connector pass thrus than the original LR one. I think this leads to the contacts burning if the connection isn't tight enough and that either results in an open circuit at the connector (like me this time) or possibly requiring the pump to draw more current and burn itself out after a period of time. I'm going to disconnect that connector and see if I have the similar burn marks as shown in that link.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Range Rovers Forum
834.2K posts
121.9K members
Since 2004
We’re a community forum to discuss and assist on issues with every Range Rover model. Sign up if you have a question, answer or to meet like minded individuals