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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I replaced the head gaskets on my 2001 HSE 4.6 Rover. I 'think' I've got it all back together correctly but it's not running.

When I turn the key, it turns over but doesn't start. Any comments are appreciated, and here are some questions.

1. Is there anything specific that has to be done to re-pressurize the fuel system? I noticed the fuel that came out of the rails and line when I disconnected it all. Is there something I have to do once it is reconnected to solve the vapor lockl?
2. Each side of the coil has a place to connect lead 1-4. I connected 1 to the first cylinder (by the pulley) and 4 is closest to the coil. Is this correct? Does the coil have to be grounded? and if so, does it ground through the bolts to the upper manifold?

It doesn't sound like I'm getting any ignition at all, so either I've got no spark or no gas or both. If I hooked up the coil wrong I guess I could have bad timing too.

Any comments appreciated, Thanks.

Jason
 

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ok, so right off I had the spark plug wires wrong. I downloaded a diagram and corrected the issue but still no start. turns over indefinitely but shows no signs of starting. I really need some ideas here. I'm exhausted from the repair and at the moment I'm out of ideas.

Jason
 

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cynack said:
ok, so right off I had the spark plug wires wrong. I downloaded a diagram and corrected the issue but still no start. turns over indefinitely but shows no signs of starting. I really need some ideas here. I'm exhausted from the repair and at the moment I'm out of ideas.

Jason


Might have flooded the engine since the spark plugs where wrong, Are you at least getting spark out of them as you start the car?
 

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To make sure you have leads on right.

sitting in car on your left is 1,3,5,7
on your right 2,4,6,8

Have you checked coil pack is plugged back in and bracket secure
As you have cranked engine loads best oremove plugs and clean.
Check fuses.
Can you hear fuel pump turn on when you turn key to position 2
Maf sensor connected
so many things to choose from but so little time......
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm pretty sure I have the leads correct now. I do hear the fuel pump. I have checked and I am not getting spark at all. I don't have any error codes. I left the battery unplugged for over a week, so someone else suggested that the ECU has lost it's code. I understand that the BeCM is transmitting the code to the ECU several thousands of times per second and that the ECU has to be put in learning mode to get the code... and this can only be done by the dealer or someone with the computer. Might this be the issue? Wouldn't the ECU issue result in a no crank instead of disabling the coil? It turns over just no start. Unless my sparkplug test was not grounded properly I am not getting spark.

I really apprecaite the help. I am not in a position to go to the dealer currently... It's 76 miles away and I'm broke.
 

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You would get an error message if there was a fault with the
BECM/ Engine ECU.

I would go over all the electrical connections that were dissconnected,
it's surprisingly easy to miss 1.
 

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Crankshaft sensor plugged in? It's easy to miss at the very back of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, Thanks for all the help!

It was in deed the crankshaft position sensor. My wife swears that she heard something that sounded like crying from under the vehicle, but I was there and I didn't hear anything like that... When I was under there, I did however find the CPS and it was hopelessly lodged (and luckily not broken) behind the exhaust manifold inner heat shield. There's a big gangly bracked attached to it and I had to remove the outer shield and loosen the exhaust manifold to get it out of there. Luckily I had small enough hands and enough dexterity to get it clamped without futher disassembly. Yesterday I hooked up the HT leads incorrectly and was able to disconnect and reconnect without any disassembly at all either. Now that is luck I think.

I can just slightly, I mean very slightly, hear the valves from the new valve job. And I was also amazed at how the ECU 'learned' to hold it at idle and run correctly after a few minutes. I read in the book how the ECU 'forgets' how to idle and has to re-learn but to see that in action was pretty cool. I'm going to replace some airbags and have a rotor turned and she'll be back in top form...

... for now. :)
 

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How do you think it got lodged up there?
 

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What did you use for a guide in doing the head gasket replacement job? How long did it take you from start to finish? I'm contemplating doing it.

Thanks in advance. Glad you got her started again.
 

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ajkennedy said:
What did you use for a guide in doing the head gasket replacement job? How long did it take you from start to finish? I'm contemplating doing it.

Thanks in advance. Glad you got her started again.

for a thourough job a week. depending as you strip you may find lifters are no good, then comes the cam and so on
If high mileage alot of your time will be preparing and cleaning out rocker covers, intake and lots of other little items
I've done a few and there's only one way and its the right way, use delphi lifters, Victor Reinz or El ring head gaskets
possibly replace injector O rings on tip side, they get hard and shrink, new composite valley gasket and end rubbers along
with NEW HEAD bolts (dont skimp on these) a good knowledge and variety of hand tools and of course the RAVE workshop manual. Pay attention to all the sequences of tightening head bolts and inlet manifold, important

When sending in heads to engineering company use one that does these heads regularly as there are a few fussy specs like
valve stem length heights etc, and do exhaust valve guides as a standard, valve stem seals on ALL guides, a bugger to do in the car and not helpful if unfit or abit on the large oval side and dont do this sort of work for a living, fender gaurds a must and a positve approach will help to.

Last important tip, when repalcing lifters there is a special way to bed in new lifters along with a lube
Enjoy
 
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