RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone got any tips for repairing a keyfob?

I think what has happened, is there should be a contact slide/bridge for the + terminal from the battery holder. I guess wear and friction have broken it off. Fob on the left works, one on the right doesn't.



I'm assuming what looks like a rubber wire, was there to act as a spring/cushion for the slide contact. Anyone know what is on the other side of the board, on the working fob the contact goes though the hole. Does anyone know if that hole is connected to the trace next to it? As obviously trying to repair it will mean getting it 100% correct.
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
4,159 Posts
Erm.... I have a fob in bits down on the work bench (somewhere) in the garage. I will see if I can find it tomorrow and take a picture of the other side of the board.

Alternatively, maybe search on here, as I am sure I have seen other threads with the fob in pieces and pretty sure showing the other side of the PCB aswell.
 

·
Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
245 Posts
Here are some pictures I have. Hopefully will be of some help. Looks like someone was already in there and put that rubber wire under the metal spring to help it make contact.

keyfobdifference1.jpg keyfobdifferenceFRONT.jpg
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
That positive connection looks like it should be OK with a bit of a tweak. Usual failure is where the negative connections solder to the circuit board on the underside. It passes through the board and two places and these aren't commoned on the board so if one goes the fob is only receiving one supply and not two.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
102 Posts
Owned 2002 P38 c. 3 weeks. Key fob (remote) did not work; key did. Bought new fob shell on eBay (Did not have Land Rover logo despite their photo that did). Transferred key and circuit board to new fob. Remote did not work.

Note: When putting in new batteries, a small piece of formed metal fell out of the old fob base (battery cradle). There was no such piece of metal in the new shell. Turns out, there is a slot for this metal piece to slide through (see photo). It makes contact with the + side of the lower battery and the "bridge." The bridge is the rectangular piece of metal that bows up on the circuit board. From what I have read, the loose end of the bridge is not supposed to touch the circuit board (don't remember source).

You can test if things are going to work before assembly. Set the batteries in their cradle (+ side down) with the formed metal piece in. Put the circuit board with round contact with three tangs facing down on top of the batteries. Be sure formed metal touches bridge. Try the buttons. Move circuit board a little until at least one button will light up the LED.

Also, you can check continuity of the buttons. Set multimeter on 1K/infinity/continuity setting. Put your negative lead on the round ring with tangs and your positive lead on each of three soldering mounds by the buttons and press the buttons. If the multimeter needle moves, the buttons are good. Touch the soldering points on both sides of the LED. If the needle moves, it is good.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Here are some pictures I have. Hopefully will be of some help. Looks like someone was already in there and put that rubber wire under the metal spring to help it make contact.

View attachment 139577 View attachment 139585
Thanks. Have seen these pics from another thread. To me the rubber looks like it should be there, you can see where it is missing on the right hand board in the left image above.
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
Neither of my keys (two cars, only one fob for each.....) had the little bit of rubber there so I cut a small piece from one of the rubber bands my postman keeps throwing on my driveway and used that.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, but I think people are getting confused here. The pics posted by DaGlitch clearly show the circuit boards are different on 99+ fobs. So if you have a pre 99 model, then it will look different.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Erm.... I have a fob in bits down on the work bench (somewhere) in the garage. I will see if I can find it tomorrow and take a picture of the other side of the board.
Don't suppose you manage to find this? A detailed photo of both sides of the circuit board would be handy, as it would be nice to try and fix mine without having to open up the casing unless I have too.

I've made one attempt thus far, but it hasn't worked, but is completely reversible.

Many thanks.
 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
as it would be nice to try and fix mine without having to open up the casing unless I have too.
You won't be able to. As well as the positive terminal, the negative suffers too and the only way to repair it is the re-solder the join on the back of the circuit board.
 

·
LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
4,159 Posts
Don't suppose you manage to find this? A detailed photo of both sides of the circuit board would be handy, as it would be nice to try and fix mine without having to open up the casing unless I have too.

I've made one attempt thus far, but it hasn't worked, but is completely reversible.

Many thanks.
I can probably get a couple tomorrow, but they will look the same as the ones from DaGlitch above, where there are pictures of both sides of the board.

I'll try and dig out the fob PCB and snap a couple of pictures anyway if it will help you.

Marty
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
You won't be able to. As well as the positive terminal, the negative suffers too and the only way to repair it is the re-solder the join on the back of the circuit board.
Thanks, but I think the negative terminal looks fine on mine. So I accept as a rule this might be the case, but specifically for me it isn't.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I can probably get a couple tomorrow, but they will look the same as the ones from DaGlitch above, where there are pictures of both sides of the board.

I'll try and dig out the fob PCB and snap a couple of pictures anyway if it will help you.

Marty
Thanks.

I guess what I'm after is, what should the bits I've highlighted below actually look like? The left hand pic you can see some faint marks from the holes to the traces, I would like to know if they should have something connecting them or not.

 

·
Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
3,952 Posts
Thanks, but I think the negative terminal looks fine on mine.
Until you take it out of the casing you can't see if it is OK or not. All you can see is the terminal that connects to the battery, what you can't see is the two solder connections where it is attached to the pcb on the other side. These connections crack with age so there's no connection between the terminal and the board.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top