RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,442 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone had to remove their transmission & transfer case?
I'm at a point where the transmission will have to be dropped & evaluated. The dealership's prognosis is that the transmission & the transfer case need to be replaced.
Although I'd like to remove it myself & take it apart, I'll likely have a local Aamco that seems like my best option take them apart & rebuild them. There are risks with that.

Other options are to buy a rebuilt set - ZF Eriksson has them for ~$3k + $400 shipping.
Rock Auto has rebuilt transfer cases for ~$2k.
The dealership would R&R them for ~$1500 to $2000.
But I'd rather repair the originals and use better parts, like Sonnax bushings, accumulator piston kits, new clutch plates & disks, new solenoids; and be able to see and have the parts that failed in the first place, to make sure it's the shafts.

I've rebuilt a couple of engines, but I've never worked inside a transmission larger than that of a motorcycle.

Any ideas, experience or advice?

How high does the RR have to be off the ground for the transmission to clear (I can add jack height)?
I do NOT have a lift, I've got a floor jack, wheel ramps and jack stand, but no lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
I have the 2005 l322 and a month ago i dropped my transmission to change the torque converter.

I actually dropped the transfer case and tranny at the same time by uncoupling the 6 bolts between the transfer case and the rear shaft and the bell housing bolts.
I found it easier to do that just dropping the transission solo.

I also did not have to touch the exhausts to do this, the protective frame for the transmission comes off easy even with the exhausts in place.

I also opted to do this as close to the ground as possible so i jacked the front up so that the bel housing clears and used a floor transmission jack. it all took just under 7 hours to do.

I replaced the torque converter with a refurbished one i purchased via rock auto and that was a bad move becasue the refurbished one is actually just as bad as my original one . I am now preparing to purchase a new TC and repeat the whole process all over again only this time i will be performing a complete tear down of the whole tranny , changing the A clutch , seals and any worn bearings etc.....

lESSONS I LEARNED
Do not buy refurbished electronics of components for your car , most of them are scams (includes alternators)
Do not trust cheply priced item that you see online. They are cheaper for a reason and its not because they like you and just want to do you a favor.

If you can DIY , that is the best option, take your time and do it right...

I hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,442 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Pontoon - very helpful info. How high did you have to lift the front end to slide the tranny out? I'd guess maybe 18 - 22" + what ever it's sitting on?
Did Rock Auto take the TC back? They're pretty good at supporting their products, on the very few instances I've had, but I've never had a TC from them.
Did you look for a replacement from ZF Eriksson or somewhere known to have good TCs?

After getting the 6HP28 on the 2012 squared-away, I really should get to the 5HP24 in the '03. It needs a bit of work, a new chain, probably bearings in the transfer case, a new torque converter.
I just don't have enough time lately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Thanks Pontoon - very helpful info. How high did you have to lift the front end to slide the tranny out? I'd guess maybe 18 - 22" + what ever it's sitting on?
Did Rock Auto take the TC back? They're pretty good at supporting their products, on the very few instances I've had, but I've never had a TC from them.
Did you look for a replacement from ZF Eriksson or somewhere known to have good TCs?


After getting the 6HP28 on the 2012 squared-away, I really should get to the 5HP24 in the '03. It needs a bit of work, a new chain, probably bearings in the transfer case, a new torque converter.
I just don't have enough time lately.
Hi , i decided not to send the TC back as i imagine it will be sold to someone else and the issue will just keep circulating while they profit so i made sure it will never be used again. I'll eat the $250 loss but i am never buying another item from there if they are selling shoddy parts , they know you can't open a TC to insect it.

I am sick of being ripped off by sellers of remanufacted stuff .

Erickson industries will be where i purchase the brand new TC , I lidted the front up about 8 inches, Northern tool has a really nice floor TM jack but is is costly $329, obviously i got ripped off on that price because i just saw the same jack going for $160 online. I bought it aND can use it in other functions in my line of work too.

The TM jack lies low 6" from the ground but can travel up to about 24".. or thereabouts , plently of travel to make adjustments for re- fitting when you are done...
 

·
Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
75 Posts
I replaced my 2003 RR transmission 2 years ago, and did it in my garage with a jack and engine hoist. I jacked up the front and had around 20 inches of room from the floor to the bottom of the running boards. Dropped exhaust, disconnected all electrical connectors, and disconnected the driveshafts. I used the engine hoist over the engine bay with a ratchet strap attached and wrapped around the bellhousing and used the jack on the rear. I had to get a bigger jack from harbor freight that had a high lift capacity 22" i think ($80 and i was due for an upgrade anyway). A friend was in control of the engine hoist and i was under the car with the jack. After removing torque converter bolts and bellhousing bolts, i pulled the transmission away from the engine and then we slowly lowered the transmission via the hoist and the jack an inch or so at a time. This also made installing it much quicker as well.

Your 2012 may be a bit different, but i'd say its a very similar procedure. I took my time and i think it took around 4 hours to remove and another 4-5 to install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
I have the 2005 l322 and a month ago i dropped my transmission to change the torque converter.

I actually dropped the transfer case and tranny at the same time by uncoupling the 6 bolts between the transfer case and the rear shaft and the bell housing bolts.
I found it easier to do that just dropping the transission solo.

I also did not have to touch the exhausts to do this, the protective frame for the transmission comes off easy even with the exhausts in place.

I also opted to do this as close to the ground as possible so i jacked the front up so that the bel housing clears and used a floor transmission jack. it all took just under 7 hours to do.

I replaced the torque converter with a refurbished one i purchased via rock auto and that was a bad move becasue the refurbished one is actually just as bad as my original one . I am now preparing to purchase a new TC and repeat the whole process all over again only this time i will be performing a complete tear down of the whole tranny , changing the A clutch , seals and any worn bearings etc.....

lESSONS I LEARNED
Do not buy refurbished electronics of components for your car , most of them are scams (includes alternators)
Do not trust cheply priced item that you see online. They are cheaper for a reason and its not because they like you and just want to do you a favor.

If you can DIY , that is the best option, take your time and do it right...

I hope this helps.
Did you have to remove the heat shielding to get to the transmission frame bolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
I've taken some side cutters, and just cut the heat shield a bit to expose all 6 bolts holding the bracket in place, my next question would be, how do you reach the top bell housing bolts without removing the exhaust? just remove the cabin air filter and access them from the top of the engine?
287883
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top