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Hi all, I am in need of some help. I suspect what little brain power I had is leaking out of my head as I get older...

I have a 95 LWB, NAS here in Texas. The truck has been pretty well cared for by the PO's.

A couple of weeks ago, with no discernable cause, the battery died. Checked it, and it looked like a cheapo replacement but was only about six months old. No problem, ran out and grabbed a good quality batt and all was well...

For a few days. Then the brand new, high end battery croaked. So, alternator, right? No problem. The one on the RRC was the original Marelli I believe, so I ordered a direct replacement (got a UK manufactured Denso in a Marelli box for some reason).
Figured I could do worse than Nippon Denso for an alternator, so I threw it in there. So at this point, charging system checks out, battery is great, all is well.

Except for the continuous drain on the battery while sitting. So, I re-check the charging system and am getting what I should there. My good multimeter has been misplaced or stolen, so I ran and got a cheapie at Home Depot last night. It only measures Volts and Ohms. With my neighbor's help, I completely disconnected the battery terminals and then started pulling fuses from the engine bay block looking for resistance across. All were fine except four out of six of the large (maxi?) fuses for ALTERNATOR (100a), HTR/ACON/AIR SUSP (60a), W-LIFT/CDL/SEATS/ROOF (60a), and ABS PUMP (30a).

I used the search feature and couldn't find anyone having the same issue, so I decided to post. Please forgive me if I didn't search well enough.

Anyway, I am thinking there could be a relay behind this, any suggestions?

Thanks from miserably cold South Texas!
Joe
 

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I'm not sure whether you did any testing before changing the battery and alternator? The two basic tests you need to do are to check whether the alternator is undercharging or overcharging the battery, and whether something is draining the battery when the engine is running.
Start with the electrical issues sticky, as that should really point you in the right direction.
 

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Air suspension can drain battery if its not working properly, also anti theft system, but mostly I would check charging system, especially grounds at coil and on hood.
 

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I have a similar problem on my '95.
I found that it is something in the fuel pump circut. I have to pull the fuel pump fuse under the bonnet every time I park for more than a few hours. Mine is drawing about 2.4 amps when the key is off.
I have not had time to find what exactly is draining my battery yet, but it is on my list!

If you disconnect your negative battery cable and attach an amp meter between the cable and the negative post you should get a very low draw. Pull 1 fuse at a time until the amperage drops down to about .03 amps, when that happens that is the circut that is draining your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey all, thanks very much for the replies. The weather is finally decent again and I'm back at this issue. Found a decent meter and have been double-checking what I know to check...

The charging system is just fine, as the batt reads a bit over 14 volts when the truck is running. It starts fine and runs great as I've left the terminals off while sitting.

With the truck off and the battery connected, I started looking for voltage across the fusible links, and found none. So I started pulling fuses in that block and the only one that gives any appreciable voltage is the Fuel Injectors (20 amp fuse).

Went inside the cab and found like 16 relays under the dash and on the wall in the passenger footwell. Had my daughter hold the meter where the EFI fuse goes, and started pulling relays- looking for the 10.45 volts to drop to 0 when I pulled the right one, thinking that I'd open up the circuit at that point. No joy.

Am I looking in the wrong place? Too stupid to deserve owning Rovers?

Thanks for any help,
Joe The Moron.
 

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You need to set your multi-meter to measure amps, switch everything electrical off, disconnect the battery earth lead and install the meter in series between the earth lead and the battery -ve. With the car at rest (ie, everything off and locked up for the night) you wouldn't expect to see more than about 35 milliamps being drawn. If you do, then pull fuses one at a time until you find the one that drops the current drain to an acceptable level - that will be your problem circuit. Exactly what you do next rather depends on which circuit it is, but at least you will have a starting point.
 

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Hi Danny explained correctly. Best way to find load is to connect Amp meter .I found in my 95rrc drain at 60A W-Lift/CDL/SEATS/ROOF I don't have wiring
diagrams
So I don't know where this max fus goes further to what fuse box .I anyone know please relay info.
Thanks Greg
 

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I had a bad drain of 2amps when I first got mine, found it was the stereo amp in the back had one bad channel and had turned it self into a heater. All that pulled out now.
 
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