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Discussion Starter #1
I’m sure several of you have done this before but it’s all new to me.

I bought a P38, with springs otherwise in excellent condition pretty much. I have fitted four new air springs, connected pipe work, checked other components and all are in place.
The ride height sensors are original as are all other components.
There is a fused fly lead under the drivers seat that I have disconnected. Fuses seem all in place.
Car is still on ramp with air springs extended, with wheels off.
Started car up and all LED’s on switch stay illuminated.
Message on dash states EAS manual. Pump doesn’t run.
Pressing switches doesn’t do anything.

any ideas for my next move? Any else it would be very much appreciated.
 

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2000 4.6 Vogue
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6 Posts
IIRC, once it goes to EAS manual it is latched and you need to do a reset using a nanocom or $$$dealer$$$
 

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2000 4.6 Vogue
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If you read the "INFO EAS Troubleshooting Tips", it would appear that a hard fault can be reset using jumpers between the EAS pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you read the "INFO EAS Troubleshooting Tips", it would appear that a hard fault can be reset using jumpers between the EAS pins.
I will look into that thank you.

Speaking to my Land Rover indie it looks like I’m going to invest in a Hawkeye diagnostic and resetting gizmo. Wish me luck.
 

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2000 4.6 Vogue
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I don't know anything about the Hawkeye so I don't know it's capabilities. I have an old Rovacom which still does everything I need. Let us know how you get on. Good luck.
 

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No, you can't jumper pins to reset a hard fault. You can use jumpers to make various EAS functions happen. Is the ECU under the drivers seat plugged in? I believe the bypass kit the spring people use plugs the bypass kit into the multi-plug under the drivers seat. To reset, you use RSW solutions tool for that.
 

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I will look into that thank you.

Speaking to my Land Rover indie it looks like I’m going to invest in a Hawkeye diagnostic and resetting gizmo. Wish me luck.
Firstly, where in UK are you ? There's plenty of peeps on here & Landyzone with EAS diagnostic kit, and might be someone near you.

Second, for EAS only you can use the free version of EAS-Unlock. Software can be downloaded, and you can either buy or make the cable yourself.

If you are going to invest in proper diagnostics, then the best for P38 is Nanocom Evolution Welcome - NANOCOM Diagnostics Nano is not VIN locked like many others.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Firstly, where in UK are you ? There's plenty of peeps on here & Landyzone with EAS diagnostic kit, and might be someone near you.

Second, for EAS only you can use the free version of EAS-Unlock. Software can be downloaded, and you can either buy or make the cable yourself.

If you are going to invest in proper diagnostics, then the best for P38 is Nanocom Evolution Welcome - NANOCOM Diagnostics Nano is not VIN locked like many others.
I am in the Dorking Surrey area.

All interesting stuff above, I will look into it.
 

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If it's showing EAS Manual, there's still a jumper or bypass loom somewhere. As noted also, is the ECU plugged in? Sometimes people put the jumpers in the ECU plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where might I find this?
What do I look for?
Where is the ECU plugged in?

Thanks in advance.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Under the passenger's seat; it's an aluminium canister with a 35 pin connector. The connector probably has two jumper wires in it. That's how you set the EAS to manual.

Plug it back in and it shoud fire up; I've never had to reset mine, it just fires up.

Tom
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Here are instructions for going to springs but I used it in reverse to make sure I'd gotten everything when I switched back to EAS. It assumes NA but I think they're the same as the UK version in this instance.

https://www.roverparts.com/Instruction Photos/9520lb/Instructions-9520LB-Harness.pdf

The nanocom documentation for the P38 is excellent and the view into what your P38 is doing makes it worth the price. If you can borrow someone's in the short term to play with it even better. This question has been answered many times so if you look around the forum you should find all your answers. That said feel free to ask if you're unsure on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, just investigated under the seat. I have pulled the in-line fuse out from the jumper cable but having exposed it properly I realised as has been said that I had to unplug The jumper harness and plug it back in the original multi pin connector on the ECU.
Now I just have the warning for 35 miles an hour on the dashboard.

I am just reading through the instructions for fitting the coil kit and there are a few items to look at, i.e. the relay and a couple of other bits in the fuse box. I will be addressing this shortly and see what happens.

Thanks again so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay, I see the Landyzone link. Thanks.

update. I have stripped out the harness and done everything as the reversal of the fitting of the coil spring pack.
All the lights are on the rocker switch
Only one message which is slow: 35 mph
Pump isn’t working.

I assume I may now have to clear thoughts?
 

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I thought I covered this is reply #6, lol. It sounds like you are turning back time. Removed the bypass, now you are at the point where it hard faulted and the previous owner installed the spring kit. So while you need to reset the ECU to be rid of the hard fault, you may still be faced with the original problem that generated the fault. You may have already fixed it with new bags but you could also have a weak compressor or faulty driver block. Both easy fixes, just letting you know there be the original issue still lurking. Almost there!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just received my plug-in box of tricks which hopefully I should be able to plug-in within the next hour and see what’s what. Failing that, if my wife presses a gin and tonic in my hand when I get back I will leave it till the morning! Happy days.
 
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