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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

As many (if not everyone) knows the wood dash trims tend to crack after the past 25-30 years on these old classics.

I decided to refinish mine with a modern twist, I removed the old veneer down to the base pine and bought walnut veneer and re wrapped the core.

I stained and used a satin poly instead of a gloss, attached are the results.

Thought I would share if anyone is thinking about doing it
 

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Wow! Great job! I tried doing mine, but the clear coat was so hard to get through so I just painted them and pretend they are piano black. LOL
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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132 Posts
Well done - nice job. Just a couple of questions please:

What technique to get the veneer curved around the tight bends?
Did you lay the veneer on then cut the apertures afterwards?
Did you use epoxy for glue?

Regards

Alan
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,

I first coated both the new veneer and pine dash with wood glue, very thin layer.

I used a fence on a table saw and another 2X4 and wedged the dash in between them to hold.

Then using small spring clamps I put all around the wrapped edge.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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160 Posts
Any chance you do have a link to where the venir came from?

So you didn't need to get the venir wet soaked or anything like that? I've read several articles about doing venir and it's sounded like a tough job. You made it look easy. Well done!
 

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Thanks for the update. Still interested to know at what stage you cut the apertures for the inserts. It strikes me a near impossible to cut them first and get them to line up, so maybe marking and cutting from the back would be feasible?

I also read about wetting the veneer to get the tight curves, but that would introduce all kinds of problems for the glue so it is a real win for you to have done this dry. When you clamped them, did you have to do it gradually to prevent cracking?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the update. Still interested to know at what stage you cut the apertures for the inserts. It strikes me a near impossible to cut them first and get them to line up, so maybe marking and cutting from the back would be feasible?

I also read about wetting the veneer to get the tight curves, but that would introduce all kinds of problems for the glue so it is a real win for you to have done this dry. When you clamped them, did you have to do it gradually to prevent cracking?
I cut mine after it was wrapped from the inside with an Xacto blade.

With the grain the wood wrapped great, its very thin. However against the grain was extremely difficult. I figured since I was already changing the look I could cheat a little and simply butted up the corners. I attached a picture of an example.
IMG_4074.JPG
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #10
Any chance you do have a link to where the venir came from?

So you didn't need to get the venir wet soaked or anything like that? I've read several articles about doing venir and it's sounded like a tough job. You made it look easy. Well done!
No I dont, I just went to my local wood supply house.

Thanks, it wasnt a walk in the park by any means but not overly difficult either compared to the heater core replacement! Nope no soaking, just thin layers of wood glue and lots of clamps
 
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