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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Need to rebuild my p38 motor. Slipped liner, overheating, rock solid hoses, bla bla bla etc. Looking for recommended sources. Who would you recommend? I'm in Dallas but I'm more interested in quality first and reasonable price. Thanks.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #2
Just to clarify, it would be nice if they were in the area but if elsewhere I'm more than willing to consider them.
Thanks
 

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Administrator
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Well your options are limited with a slipped liner... Is the engine already torn down and a slipped liner verified? Most shops believe the old wives tale of every overheat means a slipped liner. If it has not been verified it could be a simple head gasket job and have your heads refreshed.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You might check out North Texas British in Dallas. They are pretty good and have done work on my P38. Other than them I have not found any good independent Range Rover mechanics in the Dallas area.

Good luck,

David
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Only ones I know to do a top hat conversion are UK based, your other options are to find a decent used engine.
you can still purchase gems engines from some dealers, but it’s a search and find out..
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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126 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
RRtoadHall - It has not been confirmed by a shop yet. I typically do all of my own work. Just crazy busy lately. I will pull the heads eventually but I'm pretty confident this motor is shot. There are other issues that need attention as well, rods lifters making all kinds of racket, light deep drumming noise from bottom of block etc. I have another project car ('83 Porsche 928s) so between the two I can get spread thin. She just wants attention and well its time to take her to the spa I suppose. :) I'm sure ill just bite the bullet and manufacture the time somehow. These cars are too close to my heart to ignore.

dblakelock - I really like NTB. The group is great and they do great work. I've had a couple small things done there. However, I inquired about a rebuild about four years ago. was quoted over $13k. I'm sorry but that's just crazy talk. So I purchased a used motor out of a rover/jag shop in Houston with 90k on it. Compression was ok not great on it but much better than others. I did all the work myself. Figured it would get me a few years and eventually id rebuild her. I have inquired again out of curiosity but have yet to receive a response. But I can share for grins when they respond.

Chris no 10 - I've been researching rebuilds with top hats. British Atlantic is the only source I've found stateside but I have looked at RPI, Turner and V8 Developments. They seem to have a good grasp of the issues these engines exhibit and provide engineered solutions. Who's right, who's wrong, who's better? All speculative I suppose. Prices are on the higher side but that just may be the way it is. I don't have the confidence in Atlantic British because during my research I called one of only two rover shops that typically work on p38's and they source they're new motors from AB and the mechanic said they still experience issues. I asked specifics on issue didn't elaborate as he was pulled away.

I've looked at swapping the stock motor with a Chevy or whatever but that just feels sooo wrong.
 

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Even with shipping and tax I would have though a motor from V8 Developments would be way less than $13k. RPi are grossly overpriced (and I don't think their engines have top hats) and the difference between a Turner and V8 Dev engine is negligible but V8 Dev are a bit cheaper.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
RPI had a nice video explaining thin cylinder walls against the cooling pathways due to offset casting. They also mentioned top hat liners but its unclear whether or not they actually use them. Also, I would expect everyone offering rebuild units has the block pressure tested prior to build out?!
 

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RPi had some custom blocks cast and that is what they would really like to sell you but at £8,000 ($10,500) just for a naked block before you start building the engine they have to convince people that it really is better than original. Many of the horror stories you hear about slipped liners originate from them. They are fairly local to me and I called in there one day and they tried to tell me that every single engine will slip a liner unless I bought one of their blocks. In reality, they can slip liners but usually only after a serious overheat, despite what RPi will tell you, they don't do it because they can, there is always a reason even if it was weakened before you bought it and has now finally showed the signs.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
If I don't end up doing this work myself Ill make sure the block is pressure tested. I see no need for purchasing such an expensive block. If the block holds pressure. We're moving on with it. Thank you for the info Richard.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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someone at one time tinkered with building a blocking plate for the top of the block, so it could be pressurized and properly tested on the bench at home. I don't remember the final outcome of the plate or the test. may be worth a look. I think it was posted on discoweb.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, I can recall watching such a video. Perhaps the same one you mention. There appear to be several on youtube. I'll track it down. Should be easily replicated.
Thanks for the reminder.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Just some notes. I rebuild these all day long. Slipped liners are really common especially on the Bosch injection system.(runs hotter) not to say it might just need a head gasket which also is very common. I made a blocking plates to check the block but you are wasting your time at the point of going through the test. Heads and front cover have to be off which means oil pan... all have to be off to test and at that point it is so far apart just rebuild the thing and sleeve it. Q and E machine in Fullerton Ca does all my top hat sleeves and does an awesome job on the block work. I do all the tear down, assembly... lastly if you dont know what to look for when inspecting a liner it can be easliy missed. Shipping a bare block should not cost much, its all aluminum and does not weigh much, just the size that will get you.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok first off .. pwood999 now that guy is creative. I think unnecessarily so and the video I found hilarious. Hope that was what you thought as well.

Spec Ed _ rebuild for yourself or others too? I do realize the block is pretty much stripped at the point of a pressure test. Appreciate the info

I have dropped off my p38 North Texas British for them to give me their opinion. Then ill make a decision moving forward to buy or build myself.
 

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I am basicly in the same boat. Well kinda.
My 99 4.6 hse has a knock that to me sounds like a sleeve slipping. As its louder when its cold vs when its hot.
All the research I have done says that as long as the sleeve hasn't warn a hole in to your water jackets you should be able to rebuild the block. Having the block cut to accept the newer top hat sleeves is the best way to go. I have also seen top hat sleeves that have a lower set of grooves cut in them for commetic o-rings to seal off and trap the water inside away from your oil if your block has a water leak in the cylinder wall. However I have not seen where anyone has used them so I have no idea if they would work or not.

I personaly have opted to do a complete mod to mine once the motor in the rover gets to the point it's no longer drivable.
5.3 Chevy with 17k miles and a 4l80 transmission and transfer case. Yes I know it won't match up to my stock axles. So being I want to do a 6 inch lift on it and put on 33 to 35 inch tires I have opted to rip out all the stock suspension and adapt in a leaf spring set up with Chevy axles.
And yes I will be using all the Chevy harnesses and computer and doing away with all the rover electronics including the instrument cluster. I will build a custom Florida 5.0 style for the rover. (Florda 5.0 is a custom mustang instrument cluster that I have used in many foxbody mustang builds)
Also brakes will be changed over to a simple booster set up.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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I am basicly in the same boat. Well kinda.
My 99 4.6 hse has a knock that to me sounds like a sleeve slipping. As its louder when its cold vs when its hot.
All the research I have done says that as long as the sleeve hasn't warn a hole in to your water jackets you should be able to rebuild the block. Having the block cut to accept the newer top hat sleeves is the best way to go. I have also seen top hat sleeves that have a lower set of grooves cut in them for commetic o-rings to seal off and trap the water inside away from your oil if your block has a water leak in the cylinder wall. However I have not seen where anyone has used them so I have no idea if they would work or not.

I personaly have opted to do a complete mod to mine once the motor in the rover gets to the point it's no longer drivable.
5.3 Chevy with 17k miles and a 4l80 transmission and transfer case. Yes I know it won't match up to my stock axles. So being I want to do a 6 inch lift on it and put on 33 to 35 inch tires I have opted to rip out all the stock suspension and adapt in a leaf spring set up with Chevy axles.
And yes I will be using all the Chevy harnesses and computer and doing away with all the rover electronics including the instrument cluster. I will build a custom Florida 5.0 style for the rover. (Florda 5.0 is a custom mustang instrument cluster that I have used in many foxbody mustang builds)
Also brakes will be changed over to a simple booster set up.
the kind of money you plan on throwing at it in order to make it into a chevy you would be better off swaping the rover body onto a gm chassis, cheaper, less work and results would be the same. the other option just get a suburban or tahoe and lift it.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Been stupid busy, but will try to inject some facts into the various replies here.
A) I can get top hats done here, by the best Rover machine shop in the country bar non. And they certainly are not in Cali. I've personally redone stuff that was hacked out there. I wouldn't send a tricycle to that state to get work done. Just my own personal experience though, which can be backed up by a long time member here that has done more to help folks than anyone else, period.
B) Free country, but the slipped liner crap is so over used it isnt funny. They dont slip unless you cook them.
I dont care who buys either my rebuilt motors or my stuff to swap in a LS motor.
I have zero to gain by either course of action someone takes. Just make sure the folks giving "advise" can say the same.....Doubtful, especially when they join to tout their business. Bad form.
I've rebuilt more than my fair share, to the point where the probable best Rover motor shop in the country calls me when he runs out of parts we get from England, and of course did the only LSx swap around as far as I am aware. Neither of which is my "day job" though, so I have little to gain by someone going one way or the other. I'm pretty much in the same boat as Scotty though. Someone would have to persuade me to do work for them anymore. It is rarely worth the hassle with all the dreamers out there. When I do the work though, I have the added benefit of not having to cut a corner to make my shop rent that month. Nothing leaves my place unless it's 100%. I cant be bothered with the headaches of ticked off customers.
So in summary......
You/I can get top hat liners here no problem.
Rarely is it "needed" unless you cooked the motor. I dont care either way remember......
I can get your block done right, the first time.
I have oversize pistons from England, on the shelf in the shop.
Advise is free, when I have time. There are parts to use, and parts not to use. Pistons from England, rings from Hastings for example.
Here is a quick summary of the rebuilds I do. I wont cut corners, so if you didnt want the whole thing, feel free to get shipping quotes to Cali `)
After stripping and cleaning....
Block decked.
Bored and honed 20 over.
10/10 grind, to the actual bearing sizes when torqued down. Yep, one at a time for a true exact fit.
New cam bearings, with Crower cam and lifters.
New freeze and galley plugs
Rods measured. Regardless of any BS, I have yet to get a set out of spec.
New pistons with Hastings rings.
Heads surfaced.
Valve seats/guides checked, again yet to see any smoked.
All valves lapped by hand, pressure checked, then new seals.
New hardened rocker shafts with custom end supports to stop any breaking or bending at the end.
New LR oil pump gears and rebuilt pressure relief valves
All assembled while checking every clearance, end float, etc etc etc.
I dont care if someone comes to me for a motor or not, it doesnt play my bills. Folks have trailered their rigs to me over a thousand miles, and them flown in to pick them up. When you're not dependent on it to pay the bills, you can go the extra mile.
Just my .02

Martin
 
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