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The liqu moly oil is fine. The dealer is up charging the oil just like they do the brake rotors. Do you really think LR makes special brake rotors for this truck? They just slap on a logo they're made by textar.

Whats the quantity needed for the front/rear diff and the transfer case ??? And are you guys sure about using mobil or any generic because according to topix LR requires TEXACO COLD CLIMATE
 

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The liqu moly oil is fine. The dealer is up charging the oil just like they do the brake rotors. Do you really think LR makes special brake rotors for this truck? They just slap on a logo they're made by textar.

Whats the quantity needed for the front/rear diff and the transfer case ??? And are you guys sure about using mobil or any generic because according to topix LR requires TEXACO COLD CLIMATE
As I said, I'm sure it is. Where did I say anything about brakes? Also the tolerances/demands at play inside the engine (which already has a track record of being a problem) are a little different than that of the differentials. Interesting you brought up the transfer case though. Some number of rovers were shipped with the wrong type of transfer case fluid and they clunk/fail. Again use whatever oil you want, it is your car/your money. I'm just posting up what I do on my own vehicle per the research I've carried out/topic of the thread.
 

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As I said, I'm sure it is. Where did I say anything about brakes? Also the tolerances/demands at play inside the engine (which already has a track record of being a problem) are a little different than that of the differentials. Interesting you brought up the transfer case though. Some number of rovers were shipped with the wrong type of transfer case fluid and they clunk/fail. Again use whatever oil you want, it is your car/your money. I'm just posting up what I do on my own vehicle per the research I've carried out/topic of the thread.
I didn’t mean to single you out on that. I understand the differences and tolerances concern and it is a valid one with all the timing issues. I’ve had really good luck with liqu only on my m5 and 750. I’ve been using their oil exclusively on all my cars now.
 

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I didn’t mean to single you out on that. I understand the differences and tolerances concern and it is a valid one with all the timing issues. I’ve had really good luck with liqu only on my m5 and 750. I’ve been using their oil exclusively on all my cars now.
ive only run the unicorn blood 10w60 from the dealer on my e60 M5. That engine is known for bearing clearance issues but my M5 is a spring-fall only car and always follow warmup procedure so I’ve never ventured into the moly on that.
 

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I didn’t mean to single you out on that. I understand the differences and tolerances concern and it is a valid one with all the timing issues. I’ve had really good luck with liqu only on my m5 and 750. I’ve been using their oil exclusively on all my cars now.
No worries! I'm sure it is totally fine. I had a 2009 for the longest time and always planned on a 2010-2012 supercharged but was too paranoid with all the timing chain debacles and my 09 never had any serious problems. I took the plunge on the 2016 only because some attention had been paid to the problem (upgraded guides tension and specially designed oil). Apparently it was a two phase problem, tired/wrong oil fouling the tensioner and then a slack chain wearing through plastic guides. Exactly how my friend blew up her sport SC, though she kept driving it despite the chain slap so that was that.
 

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No worries! I'm sure it is totally fine. I had a 2009 for the longest time and always planned on a 2010-2012 supercharged but was too paranoid with all the timing chain debacles and my 09 never had any serious problems. I took the plunge on the 2016 only because some attention had been paid to the problem (upgraded guides tension and specially designed oil). Apparently it was a two phase problem, tired/wrong oil fouling the tensioner and then a slack chain wearing through plastic guides. Exactly how my friend blew up her sport SC, though she kept driving it despite the chain slap so that was that.
Brad, obviously you've done a lot of research. When were these "upgraded tension guides" put into use? I'm in a 2014 3.0 V6 SC. I know it's the 5.0 with 2 cylinders blanked out. So essentially the same engine. Also, I often see 5w20 oil recommended, but many on here are talking about 0w20. I change mine every 5k miles. At 89k miles now, which oil would you be using? Thank you for your input. As well as all of you input in the past on the L322 forum.
 

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Brad, obviously you've done a lot of research. When were these "upgraded tension guides" put into use? I'm in a 2014 3.0 V6 SC. I know it's the 5.0 with 2 cylinders blanked out. So essentially the same engine. Also, I often see 5w20 oil recommended, but many on here are talking about 0w20. I change mine every 5k miles. At 89k miles now, which oil would you be using? Thank you for your input. As well as all of you input in the past on the L322 forum.
It has been a while since I've looked at the update info, off the top of my head I want to say it was into 2014... So some 2014s had the issue. The guides got a metal button where they'd meet the chain to reduce wear and the updated tensioners aren't as restricted. As I understand it the tensioners are actuated and tighten the chain under oil pressure, the previous versions had a very small oil inlet and were prone to clogging up (especially if using the wrong type of oil or the recommended oil change interval) . It'd seem the chain slap was most prevalent on startup while oil pressure was building, that'd be enough to destroy the original guides and snowball the condition over time. I'd just recommend using the castol edge pro 0-20E (tho double check exactly what your model wants). There is no way of knowing exactly what is in it but they do say it has additives/detergents and is specifically designed for this engine. They also started using this type of oil later into the l405 run which leads me to believe it is another part of the ultimate fix to the timing chain issue. So I use the castrol and change every 5k rather than risk it. My engine runs as it should with 60k on the clock, mine is a 2016 though. I specifically looked for a 16-17 to completely avoid this whole timing chain issue.
 
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