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Discussion Starter #1
okay, i rebuilt the valve block and replaced the rear bellows for both sides. For some reason, it's not going up. I can hear the valve block ticking, the compressor runs, and I gave it a good 5-8 min afterward to get the tank to fill. i hear the rear sounding like it's filling, but i don't know if its hissing bc of a leak or if it's trying to fill. One thing i'm nervous about- I'm afraid the bellows that i got from shupack are going to blow because they are folded over alot. I have my jack raising it up a little in the back so that it doesnt completely crease the springs worse than they are now. Suggestions what next to do? i did see a small tear in the teflon ring around the compressor when i disassembled that, but from the sound of it trying to pump up the rear, i think it's ok enough to get the front and a$$ up in the air.
 

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Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

Any tear/nips etc in teflon seal will not allow air pressure to build up, it may do so to a certain point but thats it.
 

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Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

Which port in the valve block can I blow air into to get air into the tank or the four springs then?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

How long does it take the aystem to refill the tank and then pump up the bags? I know seven minutes to fill tank from empty but I'm wondering when the truck tries to bring itself up to the height on
The dash. Right now its sitting down low, compressor running (I pulled valve 5 and can feel good pressure coming from compressor ) and flashing to normal height but not trying to raise up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

Alright so the first problen is solved...I didn't push the lines into the valve block enough so they were leaking.

Now however the new bellows in the back are creased. Because the rear springs are longer until they roll down onto themselves, they're sitting at max height and mostly inflated but not rolling over themselves like they're supposed to. How can I help them along to get situated properly? They are installed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

So, i tried raising and lowering the truck to get the rear springs to roll onto themselves. didnt work. in fact, I just blew one off the right rear. ugh. i did a quick search but i'm nearing the end of my rope...what should I do next to get these darn bellows to stop crinkling and roll properly?
 

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Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

Wow I've never had this problem before, normally going to max height and going down does the trick..
 

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Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

tell me about it. the right rear popped off 6 times. i finally found another piston (wasnt ANYTHING wrong with the other one) and popped the lower onto the bellows. That one FINALLY rolled over on itself. The left one is still creased. can't figure out why for the life of me it wont roll. creased right in the middle. ive jacked up the driver's side rear so that it extends and gets the kink out, and then when i slowly let it down, it just doesnt wanna roll-it kinks in the same **** place. :evil:
 

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Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

Usually when you buy air bellows they come folded and this is how I install them.

For your problem I would remove and get it to fold over un inflated.
Never try and inflate with bellows off vehicle.

Did you but bellows new?
 

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Re: rebuilt valve block and replaced rear bellows-y not go up?

afox04 said:
ive jacked up the driver's side rear......
keep the axle and frame level, jack up the entire rear end at once.

Where in MD? I'm in Philly right now...
 
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