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Discussion Starter #1
After a weekend of wheeling my L322 fell to the bumpstops on the freeway. I guess it has to happen to everyone at some point, right?

Anyway, it wouldn't reset so I purchased my AllComms and went to work. Their were a few troubles that cleared, but one fault persisted: Right Rear Sensor. It wouldn't give a reading.

So I purchased a new one, and compared to replacing the ball joints the job was a quick and easy.

However, once everything is buttoned up, the vehicle would raise and lower on all three sides but the right rear. What? I logged into the AllComms and again...no reading. A big fat "0".

I'm thinking wiring harness at this point. Is there anyway to check it? Could it be the ECU?

Any thoughts?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Certainly not the ECU.
Did you reprogram your heights after the job?
Did you check the connection from sensor to ECU

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Discussion Starter #3
I need to check the connection. How do you reprogram it? There is zero signal (same as the old sensor) according to the ALL COMMS. I couldn't calibrate because even when I stored different values, nothing happened.

I need to check the connection at the ECU. Where is the ECU?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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It's in the dash under the fake wood trim and cup holder next to the glove box on the passenger side. It's mounted vertically with the electrical connector pointed towards the passenger's feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update: So I bought the wiring harness splice kit from Atlantic British. On my Range there is no way to strip the wires behind the suspension where it goes over the airline. If the break in the wire is there, you are out of luck. There is simply no access unless you had some special kind of wire strip kit. But most of the issues are at the harness connector.

So I split the wires as far back as I could, matched them, and temporarily spliced it together to verify it works. Loaded up the all-comms. Nothing. 0-signal. I reached underneath to play with the wires a bit and wiggle them (as well as move the sensor) and WOOOOSH! air filled the bag and the system articulated. Not wanting to overfill the bag, I jumped up and shut the car off. Checked All-Comms and I had a signal spike, but it dropped back to 0.

Restarted the vehicle.....still 0.

What a pain. Played with it some more and then BOOOOOOOOOOOOM! The air-bag blew up next to my face. Sounded like a shot-gun going off. My ears still hurt, but I'm lucky that's all that happened. I checked All Comms, another single signal spike, then back to zero. This happened when I was reaching as far back on the original wiring as I could and wiggling the wires. I believe my break is back there.

You can feel where the wiring goes up into the tub, it's behind the back seats. I'm going to try to pull the carpet and see if I can see the sensor wiring from there, check continuity and figure out which wire is broken. Then run just that wire back to the wheel and re-splice the harness. It will be time consuming, but should be fairly easy. If not, I can't think of anything but a coil-conversion. :(.

On the downside, it looks like I'm out a rear air-bag. I need to pull it off and check for damage, I could see/feel anything, it just expelled all the air.....maybe some sort of pressure relief?
 

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Where did you get the new one from?

Glad you are okay, can’t imagine how loud that would be!


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Discussion Starter #7
New sensor was a 3rd party (ie: cheap option) from Rover's North. Technically, the sensor could be DOA. We haven't ruled that out. But it is odd that both the original and BMW sensor are reading 0. That indicates an open circuit to me. And the fact I got it to actuate wiggling the wires kind of confirms this. Chances are, the open is near where the wires go over the airline and then down to the sensor. There is no visible indication of wear, and I have no idea how to get back there and strip and connect the wiring harness. I can barely reach up with my hands as is, let alone a tool.

The wires go up into the rig a bit beyond that, you can reach back and feel (but can't do any work there). I've pulled out all the trim, spare tire, and carpet from the rear, but unfortunately it goes up into the rig under the passenger seat area...I think. So I'm going to figure out how to pull the trim and carpet up from there. Once I find where it goes into the cab, I should be able to check continuity of the wires, discover which one is bad, and feed new cable down and splice it inside the cab. It will be a bit of a trivial repair from there (but sucks I've lost an air-spring).

At this point I have to back off the range to fix my wife's daily, an LX470 that just had the brake master cylinder start crapping out. So much for legendary Toyota Reliability...only 125k on the clock.
Once that's rebuilt, it's back to the Range.

I'll keep everyone posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
UPDATE:

Had some time to do more troubleshooting. We pulled the interior back in the rear seat area and found where the rear height sensor wires snake to the EAS module. We found the 3 for the left rear and scraped off the insulation and checked the continuity to the rear sensor.....continuity checked out. The wiring was good. The only logical spot where it would fail is around the sensor area.

So we decided to check the sensor. We pulled the wiring diagram and verified that we had a good ground on the ground wire. We also verified that we had 5V from the EAS module to the sensor, so the sensor is powered. Then we measured the voltage from the feedback line from the sensor to ground: It varied from 0 to 5V.....like it should. We put the original BMW sensor on and did the same: Worked perfectly.

So I didn't have a bad sensor after all. I can only think of two things:

1) The wiring on the feedback loop is bad between the rear hatch and the EAS module (not likely).
2) The EAS feedback input is bad. How likely is an EAS module going to fail on a single input? Weird.

In either case, this now means pulling apart the dash and access the EAS module. Checking the wire continuity will be trivial, and if that works: Great! Then it's off to ebay to buy a new EAS.

I'd be done, if I wouldn't have blown up the rear bag...I'll have to get that and rear shocks while I'm at it. So much for Christmas $$....heheheh.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Curious to know how this plays out. I have an EAS sensor fault and from ALLCOMS it shows zero reading from the front right. Don't really feel like blowing a bag.
Before I go replacing more parts - already did the front bag - steering sensor and yaw sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A quick update....work has delayed me from working on the Range, so sorry it has taken so long.

We have tested the wires back to the EAS module. So the only thing we can think of now is to replace the EAS module. I'm getting an older one on Ebay and hopefully that fixes the whole thing. Access is really easy, it's too bad I didn't know what was going on because the EAS module is a 1 hour job and $90 off the bay. So far I've spent $110 on a sensor, $500 on arnott rear bags (at 15 years and 136k miles it's probably time anyway) and $180 on new rear shocks since I'm already in there and they are leaking oil like mad.

HOPEFULLY this fixes everything. I'll keep everyone posted after the install.

What stinks, is that now it's cold I noticed the front drooped to the bump stops so I have a small leak on the front (granted it's been sitting for weeks and it finally got cold). So the fronts are going to go out eventually. The other rear is still in off-road height, so I'll probably keep it for a spare once I replace the set.
 

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(Edit)Never mind, rest of post loaded late.

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Discussion Starter #12
Again, another business trip causing delays. But I had a lot of time yesterday working on the rangie. So I installed new rear shocks, new arnott gen IIIs in the ear, and a suspension ECU from off ebay. And I verified the continuity of the cables to the sensor after splicing.

STILL zero reading from the left rear sensor. All three other bags reinflated and work properly, the rear is still dead.

But what is weird, is that I don't have a sensor fault anymore (despite the live data showing zero) but I have an "Exhaust Valve Fault" (or something like that) that won't clear....

I'll have to do some further troubleshooting, but I honestly don't know where to look anymore..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another day, another battery of tests:

This time I jumpered the ECU outputs based on RSW Solutions excellent guide in an attempt to manually inflate the rear bag. This would tell me if my mechanicals, solenoids, etc. all worked. And they do! As soon as I put 12V to the compressor signal, it kicked on and with the left rear airbag points jumpered it filled right up. Pretty quickly too, even with the vehicle off (low voltage to the compressor).

So then we re-tested all of the wiring to the rear sensor. We tried to swap the right sensor with the rear sensor but the clip was getting brittle and since it's the old school 6-wire HID leveling harness (which I don't think you can get anymore), I didn't dare risk breaking it to get the sensor off.

So at the end of the day: My cheap $60 3rd party height sensor was Dead on Arrival. That sucks.

I've asked Rovers North about a warranty. I don't blame them, there is always a risk with cheap 3rd party parts...especially electric ones. I knew better.

I have a "Genuine Rover" sensor coming now and we will see if that fixes everything. Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
SOLVED

Got my genuine LR height sensor and swapped it with the new 3rd party sensor, and the bag inflated and works properly. What's odd is the All Comms still reads a "0" for the live-data stream from the sensor, but I don't get a fault anymore and everything works as it should.

So apparently the $65 is DOA and I'll be returning it for a refund. I didn't need to cut my wiring harness, test the wires, change the ECU (well I guess I have a spare ECU now).

But the rover is driving now and I put Arnott's in the rear and new shocks. I'll have to tackle the front eventually (passenger front will lower after 2 or 3 days of sitting) and then the suspension will be essentially all new.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 
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