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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

The wire on the RH side of the glass is loose, off the glass. Does anyone know how this can be stuck back on, and still conduct the current? I've searched for 'conducting rubber compound' but can't see anything. All suggestions welcome!

Thanks
J
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Er...I just found this...anyone used it? cheers

Conductive Epoxy Adhesive, Silver loaded Glue

ECA conductive adhesive is a silver filled epoxy adhesive ideal for creating strong, highly conductive solderless connections and repairs. Conductive adhesive for circuit board repair, surface mount connections, static discharge, shielding and grounding. Silver epoxy is excellent for bonding heat sensitive components.

Key Features
? Conductive adhesive for solderless electronic connections
? Excellent conductive glue for bonding surface mount components
? High strength conductive adhesive
? Cures in 24 hours at room temperature - 60 minutes @ 60C or 15 minutes @ 120C
 

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On this side of the pond we use a rear window defogger fit it kit. It will repair broken grid lines as well as the spade terminal for connecction. All the auto stores, walmart, etc carry them.
 

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I had the same issue. I glued it back with a regular 2-component glue and then used silver-oxide paint to make contact. You should be able to get the silver-oxide paint from an electronics supplies store, since it's also used to fixed cracks in printed circuit boards.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to try that silver oxide adhesive stuff and then, assuming it works, see if I have any broken lines and then find that kit. I'm away at the moment, I've searched online for that Amazon kit in the UK but can't find an equivalent. So, I'll be on to this next week and will post up the results for others to ponder.

cheers :)
 

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I tried conductive epoxy to reconnect the spade connector to the rear window on a Taurus wagon I owned years ago. It didn't work very well. I tried several times, but the glass and the copper pad are just too slippery for the epoxy to get much of a grip on. The annoyance is that the copper traces are laid on the zinc window form before the molten ("plastic" is the term they use for its state) sheet of glass is draped over the mold, which bonds it to the defroster and cools the glass. Then, in the moment it is almost solid, a giant die cutter stomps down around the edges of the new window to cut away the excess. Making windows is such a matter of finesse... it is difficult to imagine all the thought and experimentation that have gone into perfecting the process over the decades.

A friend of mine had a similar problem in college, and tried to solder it back on, but shattered his window because of localized heat expansion differential. That was before he got his degree in electrical engineering (he admitted he didn't pay much attention in mechanical engineering class when they were talking about thermodynamics and expansion). ;)

You may be better off buying a replacement window from a junk yard.

Hmmm... I've just looked up two other things I remember a couple of our electrical engineers talking about at work. One is an electrically conductive adhesive, called Wire Glue. Another was called Tac Gel. There is also 3M electrically conductive double-sided tape. I didn't know about any of those when I was trying to fix my Taurus' defroster. I haven't used any of these, and I don't know how strong they are, or how brittle they get in cold weather then heated.

Scott
 

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If you don't use heat... if you use a nice cool adhesive or conductive tape... there is absolutely no way to shatter your rear window. Well, I suppose you could hit it with a hammer, but that's different. :)

Scott
 
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