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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there anyway to stop the trunk from locking when I lock the doors. Every now and then when the doors lock and then unlock I can't open the trunk because the lock is freezing its very aggravating not knowing if I can open my rear hatch or not. Is there a way to bypass the lock feature on the rear hatch
Tnx
 

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Why not just fix the issue? ou'd be amazed what 20 minutes and a can of spray lithium grease will do for latches, rods and locks.

However to answer your question, no.
 

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You said "the lock is freezing". I would guess this is not a temperature issue yet. This leads me to believe either your passenger latch is not sending a signal at all times or your mechanisms are dry. As noted above a bit of lube fixes all sorts of issues.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If you mean that sometimes you can't open the back then I suspect you can't open your front RH (passenger in your case) door either. The rear tailgate release is powered (well, earthed actually) through the door lock. So if the door is locked then the tailgate cannot be released, if the door is unlocked, then it can.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Not to hijack this discussion yet I have same issue where my hatch will not open even though all four doors will unlock and open just fine. I've had to hold down unlock botton on fob while simaltaniously pressing the rear hatch botton and after a few minutes it will unlock. So obviously there is a short, or there seems to be. You mentioned spraying lube on the issue, well, exactly where does one look for the issue and how? Tear into carpeted side of tailgate?

thanks for any help.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You just described my problem perfectly I never have any trouble with my doors locking and unlocking it's only the tailgate. So I'm not sure where to start
Tnx
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It could be the button. The big spring inside rusts away so it doesn't operate the microswitch properly. With it open, take the trim panel off the inside of the lower tailgate so you can get to the back of the switch. pull the plug off and try shorting the two connections together to see if the latches work every time. That should identify if it's a switch or wiring problem.
 
G

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to take carpet off of the lower gate, lift the plastik covering the gap between boot and tailgate, you see a few "screws" there (plastic) turn them 1/4 anti clockwise, lift the carpet a bit at the vehicle side, and pull gently towards the vehicle


no need to tear anything ;-)
 

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Next time it refuses to unlock, give the area just below the button a bit of a thump with the side of your fist...if it works then it's very likely the button or micro switch inside the tailgate. Remove the carpet etc as described above, dismantle the button switch and give it a good clean. Check also the condition of the micro switch and its adjustment.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
Good starting point there, I have also had an issue where the contact for the top tailgate wasn't reacting properly and that sent the wrong signal back to the outstation.
 

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I think that these rear latch opening issues are actually a connection problem. When I tried to trace the fault I got nowhere, had battery voltage on one side of the connection and had continuity to ground whenever I pressed the tailgate switch on the other, tested the latch with a 12v tool battery (handy).

Turned out that the connection on the tailgate switch - the individual female pins on the harness side of the plug - oversize slightly over time, not enough to fail a continuity check (which it passes every time) but enough to stop the full current demanded by latch.

The simple solution, take off the harness/plug and very gently (and slightly) bend the two male pins on the latch switch, remembering you have to fit the plug again, too much and you can't do this without possible damage.

This will give a proper connection again and this is why the traditional 'thump switch' method (mentioned above) works, but not for the reasons you thought. 0.02p
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You are probably quite correct Larry. When I had a problem with mine it was due to the big spring rusting away and bits of it stopping the button from going in all the way and operating the microswitch. When I changed it for one I found on a DSE in a scrapyard, I tweaked the pins anyway as they didn't seem to be too tight. I may have had a combination of both problems and fixed it without realising.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks for the tips. Will give that a shot when I get her back from drive shop. Couldn't get the front shaft out for uj job so had to relent and take her in.

Cheers to all!
 
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