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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Well it has been awhile since my last post... I hope all is well with everyone and all of your RR's are running as healthy as mine! (Knock on Wood)

Yesterday, while putting my backpack in the back of my RR, I noticed that the bottom of the Rear Hatch there is a Rubber molding, if you will, that is beginning to crack from the sun (as expected for a 9 year old car).

After doing research using the search column on the forum (at least I thought I did enough research to know that I need to ask this question, hopefully not for the 100th time as many people complain people do on this forum) is there any downfall anyone is aware of by removing this piece in its entirety?

I have read/learned that replacing requires the entire glass to come out, which I am really not interested in doing...

Any advice on benefits/downfalls of removing this piece?

I included 4 photos, one of a RR with the molding I am referring to, and one RR without the molding I am referring too..?

Thanks and all advice is greatly appreciated,

C. Mayfield

P.S. - I thought I saw a RR the other day with a chrome piece where this rubber piece is... Does anyone know if they make a cover for it? If so where? Hell, could you paint it with some sort of epoxy or oil based paint since it is rubber? Thanks.



After.jpg


Before (Zoomed).jpg


After (Zoomed).jpg
 

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I have the same issue. Ordered the piece the other day and will be making a go of replacing it once it arrives. I figured it'd be my best guess on how to replace it, so if you figure it out or hear something on the 'right way' of doing it, I would love to hear it
 

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Ditto with mine. If you could post picks for the replacement, I'd really appreciate it. You dont happen to have the part number for the seal, do you? I've been trying to find it, but have hit a few dead ends with the search.

As far as leaving it off...I would think water would get into the window frame??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
KeptMan: Not to burst your bubble, but from what I read on this website, the only way to physically replace the current one that is on your RR with a new one is to remove the back glass in it's entirety... Don't quote me on that, but I believe thats the only "correct" way to install it...

CJD: Not sure on the part number... Google "LandRoverPartsCenter". I use their website a lot to pinpoint the parts in diagrams and get names and code numbers.


As I was leaving the mall today, I saw a 06/07 Supercharged completely stock without this rubber... Possibly it came stock without it on the supercharged models..? Just a guess...

Anyone have any more input on the matter? Removing the rubber molding/gasket in its entirety? A possible cover..? Anyone..?

Thanks,

C. Mayfield
 

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Thanks Keptman...I've got a seal on the way. I'll post the pics if I get to it first...and let everyone know if the glass has to come out.

C, I'll let you know if water can get into the frame once I get it apart...
 

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I did this about a year ago, mine had chunks missing on my 03. Tried to beat it out with a hammer since it looked possible to slide out, but its glued in there. Had a glass shop change it with no repercussions, been through many rain/snow storms and no leaks. Wasn't too specialized of a glass shop, only took them an afternoon charged me around $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
CJD: I look forward to hearing how the replacement goes, as well as if there are any leaks...

jwclements1: When you say change it, do you mean remove your "old" one and replace it with a "new" one, or did you have them remove it and not replace it and leave it without the rubber molding? If you've gone through multiple rain/snow storms with no leaks without a molding there, I may take your word and have mine removed.

Hell, I live in California, and there have been times this year I have wondered if it will ever rain again... :lol:

I look forward to reading responses on the work thats going to be done on CJD's and other people's feelings on removing entirely/replacing this piece!

Thanks Again everyone...

C. Mayfield
 

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sorry for the confusion. I got a new one online and had the glass shop switch it out. Don't think the metal part of the hatch has enough "lip" for the glass to seal properly without it when I took a look. It was on the cheaper end of things I've done so I just went ahead and put a new one on there.

also, I showed it to the dealer and they'd never seen the part separately and had no idea how to change it so just skip that situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The more I look at it, the more I wish I could remove it and leave it off!!! It looks so much better without it!!!

I am thinking of going to a automotive glass shop and seeing what there opinion is on removing the piece and leaving it off...

They may have a "trained eye" to spot if it is going to leak or not!


C. Mayfield
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QUICK UPDATE:

Stopped by a local Automotive Glass Shop today, and according to them, the only option for this is to replace it with a new one... The 2005 RR Part, at least on my RR, physically is glued to the front of the glass and wraps underneath it to the back side of the glass forming a tight seal. They also informed me that it is imperative to have the piece there. They quoted me $75 + the part price, which is around $70.

What are your thoughts and feelings?

Thanks,

C. Mayfield

P.S. - They said the only way for them to remove/replace the molding is to remove the entire rear hatch glass... Just thought everyone would want to know! :)
 

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I ordered the new seal. It turns out if you order what looks like the glass seal in the parts diagram, it's actually the lower seal between the upper and lower hatch. Luckily the parts guy called to check. He said he's had several of these seals ordered wrong. I told him "of course"!... "we're all on the same forum!"Anyway, when it arrives I will post the correct part number. I am hoping I will not have to order more seals around the glass when it comes out to replace the lower seal. Anybody DIY yet??
 

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Just got done replacing mine. Very easy job. Just took a little time. Here's my quick little write up if anyone is interested.

IMG_1684.jpg

This was the sun damaged molding that I started with. I used a painter's 7-in-1 tool (I use that thing for everything!) and I finished scraping the rest of the damaged rubber off of the metal mounting piece that is under the window.

Once all of the old rubber was removed, I took a razor blade and slid it between the glass and the old molding, to loosen it up and in case there was any glue to try and sever it. I then opened the deck lid and braced it open with a bit of 2x4, as the molding will not come out because it is even with the rear pillars when the lid is closed. I took my painter's tool, and a hammer and beat out the old molding.

IMG_1685.jpg

It's slow going initially, but it will loosen and once I had gently bumped it out about 1/3rd of the way, I was able to grab the hanging end and pull it the rest of the way through.


IMG_1689.jpg

I was able to clean the old rubber that had melted onto the deck lid and the window with a scraping razor and some citrus degreaser, like goo-gone, nothing too caustic. Once it is out, for those of you who had asked previously, it doesn't appear that it needs to be there in order to keep it water-tight. I like the way it looks better, but if you were so inclined, from what I saw, it is a non-essential piece.

IMG_1691.jpg

The new piece I ordered, as I posted earlier was exactly what I needed. This is an exceptionally tight fitting piece as the rubber is brand new and the way the flanges on it are set up, I don't think that any sort of mastic or adhesive is necessary to keep it in place or water-tight (I'll update that if anything changes....) I put the moulding in the same way it came out, but I grabbed a spray bottle of water to keep everything a bit more lubricated. It slides in rather easily up to about halfway, and then it becomes very difficult. I was able to 'coax' it in to about 3/4 just by pushing with my hands and trying to keep it straight as not to bend the metal, but it wouldn't move past that. So I did what I always do when I get stuck; I grabbed a hammer.... I seated it the rest of the way using a rubber mallet, making sure that I only hit the metal in the moulding and held it straight with my other hand so as not to buckle it. I finished seating it using a chunk of wooden dowel, centering it on the lift gate.

IMG_1694.jpg

That's it. Just like new
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
CJD: Let me know on that part number!

KeptMan: Great Work! and from what it looks like and your detailed explanation, I am going to remove mine and leave it off... I like the way it looks, better with it off...

Thanks Guys!!!

C. Mayfield
 

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Thanks Keptman! Excellent write up. My order arrived today, so I'll update soon with my experience.
 

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So...

I dove into the RAV to get ready for this job. Here is what I discovered. The rear window is sealed completely around with a tube - applied butyl rubber compound. That means that the answer to your question, C, is that yes, you can remove the bottom seal without a problem.

I studied the new seal, and it has a thin bead of glue already applied in the plastic channel that the glass fits into. I'm waiting for a couple more parts that I mis-ordered so I can have a full "RR Work Day". I've got till then to decide if I'll remove the glass, or do the slide in method.

More to come!
 

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Finally got the job done.

First, you can leave the trim seal out if you like...the window is sealed underneath using butyl rubber.

I'm one of those sick puppies that actually had a tube of butyl rubber laying around...just in case I decided to do what the RAV says, which includes:

1) Remove the inside trim.
2) remove the electrical connections to the window.
3) Remove the wiper.
4) Remove the window.

If you go this route, you need a tube of the rubber compound to re-set the window. I am not afraid to do this...but, having done so many times over the years, I also know there is a great chance of something going wrong if you remove the glass. Just a few include...breaking the glass, damaging the electrics, or finding more work under the glass that has to be addressed before you can drive the car again.

Pass.

I started just like Keptman. The trim is an aluminum core set inside the rubber seal. I used an exacto to remove all the rubber I could. Then I gently pried the edge of the trim downward, and the whole old piece popped off at once. I cleaned the glass edge with fine steel wool, and the whole area with glass cleaner.

Now I looked at the new trim piece. Again, it has a bead of glue pre-placed in the glass groove. I considered sliding it into place from one side, but figured the glue would eventually make contact and jam up the operation. My mind's eye did not like the consequences if that happened...primarily figuring I would end up bending the new trim and have to start over when another one arrived.

Instead, I sprayed the new trim and glass with vinyl protectant to make it slick. I then placed the trim where I wanted it and just lined up the channel in the trim with the edge of the window glass. Then, starting on one side and moving across the trim, I gently tapped the trim into place using a rubber mallet. It popped right into place!

The whole job took 5 minutes. I planned to take pics, but it all happened too fast. It popped off...boom...and popped in...bam. Done.
 

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Awesome info John! I'm doing mine tomorrow and I hope I have the same experience as you did. Thanks for sharing your experience,
 
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