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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone is interested in a replacement option for the rear camera. This one works. I've tried a few others with mixed results.

Certainly not even close to a plug and play solution, but if you have $25 and at least an afternoon you’ll see what’s behind you again.

After removing the old camera you’ll need to fashion a bracket. I used some aluminum stock from Lowes. You’ll also need to solder up an adapter to go from the camera to the OEM camera input. I used a short piece of coaxial. Plenty of fitting, trimming and Dremel work will be required. It is fairly straight forward, but time consuming and I do apologize for not documenting it. The one call out is that you might be better off building a cardboard template to aim the camera before building the bracket, although the camera is adjustable it’s limited.
I'll post a pic tomorrow for anyone that is interested

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FCBXYVS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Thanks Greggles. My reversing camera is really poor and I've been looking at alternatives.

I look forward to your parts list and photo in situ. Could you give me a quick line or two explaining what the improvement is please (better resolution, better night image, etc. etc.)?
 

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I recently replaced my RV camera in my 06. All 4 of the wires inside the camera housing were loose (I think LR just glues them onto the board with adhesive, or they were the worst cold joints I've ever seen) I used tis camera (54 bucks) just for something a little different.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272581198913?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The camera has moving parking lines from a little gyro inside the housing, and works very well in reverse (they work opposite in the couple of seconds the camera remains on in forward). All I did was grind the lip off the standard thru bumper bezel that comes on these things so it would slide down into the cylinder in the housing that surrounds the LR camera lens, and I put a notch in the two housing halves for the wire to run thru. There are also a couple of little plastic stops right up against the glass in the housing on the inside that need to be flattened so you can push the camera right up against the glass. All you need to do is make sure the camera goes in level (the housing itself is not level with the ground) otherwise the image is tilted to one side or the other.

I used this connector to go from RCA to SMB (the connection to the car)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-CA-LMR100-SMB-MALE-to-RCA-MALE-Coaxial-RF-Pigtail-Cable-/131478723555?var=&hash=item0

I heat shrinked the connections and stuffed everything except the 3V transformer (the cylindrical brick all these cameras come with in the wiring harness) inside the rear gate and put the rubber grommet back in place. The camera has awesome night vision in anything except complete blackness, and the moving lines are pretty accurate and line up fairly well with the PDC sensors on both the side, and straight out the back.

I was going to upgrade to a 2009 or up camera, but all of a sudden everyone on Ebay wanted almost full retail on used cameras, so I went cheap, but it is way better then the camera that came on the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If anyone is interested in a replacement option for the rear camera. This one works. I've tried a few others with mixed results.

Certainly not even close to a plug and play solution, but if you have $25 and at least an afternoon you’ll see what’s behind you again.

After removing the old camera you’ll need to fashion a bracket. I used some aluminum stock from Lowes. You’ll also need to solder up an adapter to go from the camera to the OEM camera input. I used a short piece of coaxial. Plenty of fitting, trimming and Dremel work will be required. It is fairly straight forward, but time consuming and I do apologize for not documenting it. The one call out is that you might be better off building a cardboard template to aim the camera before building the bracket, although the camera is adjustable it’s limited.
I'll post a pic tomorrow for anyone that is interested

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FCBXYVS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
update pics attached. Not sure if you can see much
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gyre8
To answer your question. Not sure the quality is much better, this is cost driven patch,
 

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Lets see if this works, the attached file is of the camera I linked to above taken last night in my job parking lot showing the lines curved off to one side as I backed out. The clarity is about equal to the original (and it was misting a bit last night), and I think the clarity has more to do with the weird resolution of the screen on the head unit than anything else. when I hooked it up to my RSE monitors it was amazing clear compared to the original, and the low light (won't call it night vision) is way better. You have to get a PAL camera, or one that auto selects the proper format. A pure NTSC camera will not work in a RR (at least the 06 versions). Also if you go the cheap keyhole type camera and use the stock housing with glass over the lens, do not get a camera with IR lanps built into it, as the reflection off the glass in the housing washes the image right out. If your using a different housing, or just the housing that came with the camera you should be fine with that option. I just wanted mine to look completely stock. This one suits my purpose and if it eventually blows up, I'm only out 50 bucks vs about 350 for a 2010+ camera.
 

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MarK_C, could you explain a bit more about how the cable and camera you listed above connect together please? For instance I see two cables coming off the camera - Red and Yellow connectors. And only one plug on each end of the cable you linked to.

How does this all connect up please?
 

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The camera comes with 2 female RCA connector leads coming off the camera. One is red and it is the + and - 12VDC power, the other a yellow RCA jack that carries the video signal from the camera to the head end. I absolutely refuse to cut any of my Truck's (or any other vehicles) internal wiring harnesses, so I cut the wiring harness off the dead camera at the camera housing split it open and pulled out the two wires that powers the camera (there are 4 leads in there 2 for power two for signal). The two with he little 2 pin plastic connector on the opposite end are for power, the two connected to the SMB coax connector are for the video signal. (my cameras SMB connector wires broke off when I pulled it out- note it does not twist it just pulls straight out) Both the power connector, and the SMB connector are inside the liftgate behind the rubber grommet. When you pull the grommet out the wires can be pulled and the connectors will come out for access (don't let them fall back into the inside of the liftgate, they are a pain in the butt to fish back out - tie a string or something to them)

Then I cut the Red RCA jack off the camera power lead and spliced it to the original camera power lead and heat shrinked those wires so I still could use the existing connector from the truck to the camera that is inside the lift gate under the rubber bushing. For the video signal I got one of those SMB male to RCA male connectors with like a 4" lead on them I linked to in the first link above. Then I just plugged that into the video RCA connector (the yellow one) on the camera, heat shrinked the RCA connectors and about an inch of the cables on either side so no moisture can get into it, then I just plugged it into the existing SMB female connector inside the liftgate. Easy, and if I want to get a real LR camera in the future then all I have to do is unplug the connectors remove this camera and plug in the new one and be on my way, as I haven't cut any of the wiring inside the truck.
 

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Also before you take your housing off the truck make sure you mark it relative to a true vertical line (and this applies to any non LR camera being installed). Hang a string with a weight on it or something else off the spoiler above the center of the lense and mark the housing where the true vertical line is. The housing is not mounted horizontally (it tips up towards the center of the truck about 10 degrees) so if you don't verify the true vertical line and install the camera to that your image will be tilted about 10 to 15 degrees off when you reinstall the housing. The camera is marked for the top center on the back of the camera housing. My first attempt drove me crazy looking at the twisted view so I had to pull it back apart and rotate the camera a bit to fix it. Easier to do it the first time. This is the image straight on, it is still slightly tipped but not really noticeable when you are actually using it.
 

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Thank you M. Canning from MA (USA). I followed your exact directions to replace my rear backup camera on my 2006 Range Rover Supercharged. Perfect instructions and recommendation! I spent $67.00 on the camera that you recommend, which is a much better camera than the OEM camera and I spent four hours to install it -- saving myself $1,000 from having the dealer replace it with the inferior OEM camera. The only change I would add is there's no need to grind off the bracket on the new camera ($56.00) because the outside housing of the new camera is in two parts and the top part screws off easily by hand allowing you to take off the bracket that is on a ring that slides off the camera cylinder. Once you slide off the bracket, then just hand screw the top of the camera housing back onto the camera base. As for the RCA to SMB cable you recommended, it was perfect. I suggest ordering it 24 inches long for about $11.00 to be safe. Thanks again !!!
 

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Thanks, Mine came with two bezels the bullet type one for use with the bracket and another one for sticking it thru a bumper, or other surface on the car. I did unscrew it and took the little silver surface mount bracket off but didn't even try the bullet shaped bezel I used the thru bumper one, and the tiny little lip on that bezel is what I ground off so it would fit inside the LR housing. Maybe I made some extra work for myself. No you need to do the LED backup light mod so you can see even better at night.
 

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Hey Mark C - question.... Is the picture you posted centered in the rear bumper? In my 18, the picture is way off centered as was in the 17.... just curious. Maybe they've moved the location of the camera in the 17 & 18's. If you hook up a hitch to my 18, its way off. tks for info on the reverse camera - lot of good info.
 

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The 06 to 09's are about 4 or 5" off center to the right side (the wiper arm pivot is in the way). They got closer to the center in the 10 to 12s but they are still offset a bit. The image on the screen is also shifted right because the head unit has a weird pixel resolution.
 

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The 06 to 09's are about 4 or 5" off center to the right side (the wiper arm pivot is in the way). They got closer to the center in the 10 to 12s but they are still offset a bit. The image on the screen is also shifted right because the head unit has a weird pixel resolution.
tks for the help. have a good weekend
 

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Thanks Mark. I too had been having issue's with the camera. I tried to fix the connections but it would still go out here and there. So I followed your directions - even purchased the exact same camera so I would have no surprises. In just over an hour I had a brand new working camera. I was shocked I didn't have to adjust the camera once I got it in position (there was a sticker pointing up so I figured that should go at the top) which was a good thing because I used a little hot glue to keep it in place. This camera fit perfectly in the slot where the old camera sat. The OEM replacement camera's I believe are around $1000 at the dealer (although you can find them cheaper online) so I figure I would have been charged $1500 at the dealer for what I did for $38 (camera and cable) .

Cheers!
 

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I could kiss you guys :)

I just installed this set up and it works great. I followed these guys vids to access the spoiler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqHYMLg-TZQ and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Omq9jbNNscg&t=279s

Once I pulled the guts out, I realized I needed a bigger hole to pass the cables through.

IMG_20180725_131335.jpg

Then I spliced the power plug from the old camera as suggested, I had also bought a 6" coaxial cable from the ebay link as well.

IMG_20180725_133659.jpg

Here is the angle I put the camera at

IMG_20180725_134921.jpg

I used a little marine silicone to cement it and taped every together to test it, later I will do up everything a little more firmly.
 

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Cautionary note, with this option there is no way to run the wire back through the hole in the metal spoiler near the camera. I had mounted everything to ensure fit and camera facing correctly, then sealed up the camera area and put a flexible braided cover over the wire to protect it. That extra 3-4mm thickness cost me an hour of trying to figure out why the spoiler would not go on properly. Took the cover off and just use Guerrilla Tape to hold it down and the spoiler then slotted in as it should. Make sure the slots that go over the 2 plastic pegs are not bent as well.
 
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