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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping(?) this is simply a product of poor quality reman calipers, but my rear passenger side needs to be replaced again, after only about a year. I had just replaced pads, and the new pades aren't terribly worn, but heat has been emanating from that wheel, so it seems like the pads are grabbing, just not hard. I replaced the driver's rear w/ a Nugeon replacement months ago that has been performing fine. This new caliper is also Nugeon; the prior one wasn't (still stamped TSW however; which is, I believe, OEM).

I have noticed that they're using poor quality slide pins, but that doesn't seem to be the issue this time - and the piston retracted into the caliper quite easily as well - so I'm at a loss.

Can anyone think of another reason why the rear calipers would grab and cause excessive heat (it isn't the parking brakes either; I've disabled them and removed them completely). Is there something like a pressure balancing block or other component that could cause this? Searching hasn't netted results.

TIA
 

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Air in the brake lines? Did you try to bleed the line?
I mean, it is logical that presence of air in the line would cause brakes to grab hard and while driving, air would heat-up expand and case pads to engage and heat-up even if you do not touch the brake pedal.
Also caliper itself should be inspected. your car is 2006 so it has some years to it, if there is an issue with brake cylider movement inside of caliper - it may be cause of this issue,
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #4
There's no wheel bearing type noise, and no play in the wheel either, so I don't think so.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Air in the brake lines? Did you try to bleed the line?
I mean, it is logical that presence of air in the line would cause brakes to grab hard and while driving, air would heat-up expand and case pads to engage and heat-up even if you do not touch the brake pedal.
Also caliper itself should be inspected. your car is 2006 so it has some years to it, if there is an issue with brake cylider movement inside of caliper - it may be cause of this issue,
Thanks Roman -

I have a firm pedal, so I don't know that I have air in the line, but I did just replace the caliper and bleed them again, so we'll see.

It didn't happen for months, so I am baffled. Checking the caliper doesn't yield anything out of the ordinary either.
 

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Had this happening to mine. Pistons needed to be pushed in while I bleed the caliper.
 

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Years ago, my Land Rover dealer did an inspection of my wife's 04 Maxima. Failed it for a bad caliper. Pulled the wheel and noticed the pads were like new. Ok: so bought a new caliper assembly, busted my ass, two sockets, and knuckles getting the old one off (needed a three foot breaker on a half inch socket); installed the new one with new pads; as wife was assisting in bleeding the brakes (she is a pro at 'pump, pump, hold'), I notice the brake line is expanding . . . Not caliper, brake line: they can go bad too, especially in areas that salt roads in the winter (Oh, right, we are no longer allowed to see where folks live on this forum! Nor the date of the threads).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought it was the lines collapsing last time too, so I replaced them with braided stainless steel.

I am going to go through another complete bleed again and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does anyone know if a true brake bleed on a L320 must include a diagnostic hookup for the ABS system to be actuated during bleeding?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sure it's not the parking brake?
I removed the internal PB components some time ago, as (IMO), the RRS PB system is a finicky POS.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On an aside, I've been looking for a better looking caliper for the rear of a RRS, and have found nothing (other than a $3500 Brembo setup, and that's not happening).

What I did, then, is some fabricating. There are aluminum caliper covers available (branded 'Endless'), so I bought a pair, ground down the raised aluminum 'Endless' lettering, repainted them, laid on Brembo decals and clear coated them. I drilled out the faux plastic Allen bolt heads and installed real stainless Allen heads in their place, along with drilling and tapping the lower caliper bracket to screw two of the Allen bolts into the bracket itself. They are not budging. Now the front Brembos match the rear.
B6E5EDE6-2813-4653-A7B9-DB6CF38F32A2.jpeg
672B6EB7-5868-45A6-9D7D-B4D8838DB016.jpeg
This is the result:


B6E5EDE6-2813-4653-A7B9-DB6CF38F32A2.jpeg
 

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I'm hoping(?) this is simply a product of poor quality reman calipers, but my rear passenger side needs to be replaced again, after only about a year. I had just replaced pads, and the new pades aren't terribly worn, but heat has been emanating from that wheel, so it seems like the pads are grabbing, just not hard. I replaced the driver's rear w/ a Nugeon replacement months ago that has been performing fine. This new caliper is also Nugeon; the prior one wasn't (still stamped TSW however; which is, I believe, OEM).

I have noticed that they're using poor quality slide pins, but that doesn't seem to be the issue this time - and the piston retracted into the caliper quite easily as well - so I'm at a loss.

Can anyone think of another reason why the rear calipers would grab and cause excessive heat (it isn't the parking brakes either; I've disabled them and removed them completely). Is there something like a pressure balancing block or other component that could cause this? Searching hasn't netted results.

TIA
Heat emanating from rear wheel but pads not worn? Are rotors discolored? Yes, there is an ABS modulator that could have defective roller valve causing brake drag. If that were the case, you would have discolored rotors and worn pads. If your pads are organic or semi-metallic compound, you'd smell them. The carbon-ceramic resins are less pungent but you'd still notice some smell, especially if you park in enclosed garage after long drive.

My guess is your heat issue in not brake related, most likely wheel hub bearing. The best way to confirm is to drive for 10-15 minutes. Stop and immediately use IR temp gauge. Check rotor braking surface, both left and right rear. Should be near identical. Take readings at calipers as well, again should be near identical on each. Then measure heat at hub bearing, best taken at backside from under vehicle. Any significant temperature deviation from left-right will indicate source of problem. Good luck
 
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