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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I get rattling noise from the fan belt when it's loaded but not always.
i.e when AC on, H/lights on or steering at L or R end.- individually or together
Replaced both auxilliary pulleys(adjuster) & the fan belt. No luck.
Is there a bearing inside the fan pulley? some times the noise comes from the fan pulley, I guess.
The noise is like Trrr, Trrrr Trrr........ but not a continous one. With high RPM above 1500 it clears out.
Even with the AC belt removed it's there. So it's not the AC belt adjusteer.

Any advise appreciated.

rgds

kapila
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The front pulley on the crank on a diesel is a two part thing with rubber separating the two halves to take vibration out. These can fail and when they get really bad sound as though the cam chain is badly worn. Although an easy fix, a new pulley is ridiculously expensive.....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,
How can I verify that it's the crank pulley? Is it visible?

rgds
 

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You can get under the car a try to see some movement from the crank pulley. It´ll get worse and you will lose power to fan/alternator/AC/power steering.
You can get a new one from ebay uk for about 200£, let me know i´ll search the link for you.
It´s quite easy to change, a bit of work and arm strength.
 

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I am not recommending it and I haven't done it, but some people have welded up the pulley, apparently without any detrimental effect.
 
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Like you said... not a mod to be recommended :naughty:

the pulley is made in two half with rubber between them because it is a damper, it is designed to neutralise the virbrations cuased by the non even movement of the crank shaft (three times per rotation it accelerates because of the explosion of the diesel, three times it decelerates because of the compression stroke) The whole engine is designed with matching parts, changing the damping pulley into a non damping one, could cause vibrations and those might cause fatigue in for example the cranckshaft.... Not said it WILL, but as most of us are no mechanical designers, it would be taking a chance with crucial parts of the engine......
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys.
It's parked now & will go under it and see when the time permits.
Will revert with observations

rgds
 

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I had a similer noise, It was the serpentine belt running out of allinement,I cured it by putting a penny behind the adjuster. there is a thread dealing with this known problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a similer noise, It was the serpentine belt running out of allinement,I cured it by putting a penny behind the adjuster. there is a thread dealing with this known problem.
Can't find the thread. will u send me the link please?

rgds
 

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I'm sorry I cannot locate the thread, perhaps someone reading this knows the thread. however, the serpentine belt tentioner is fixed to the engine block with one small bolt in the centre, take off the tension off the belt, then loosen the centre bolt, then put a small washer, or a small coin at nine o clock between the tensioner and the block ( when facing the engine) this will re-align the tensioner with the alternatiner. this cured my squealing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
here are some video clips from my phone.

oops. no can't upload. all are 3gp.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally it's confirmed. After removing the fan belt, I could feel the inner pulley & it's got an axial movement about 2mm. Now to search for the part no in ebay.

rgds
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There are 2 part no's;
STC2102 and STC3345.
What is the difference? (price only?

rgds
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How can I remove the crank pulley without special tools?
What size is the centre bolt?
rgds
 

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Hi

From memory you don't need to remove the centre bolt, just the 10/12mm bolts surrounding the centre bolt.

If you go down the centre bolt route, you will need the special tool LRT 12 105 which is mandatory for this removal and refit, this is to prevent shear damage to the small woodruff key that holds the hub in place.

The advantages of removing the centre bolt is that you can access and replace the front main oil seal which is worth doing
 

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I made up a tool that is a copy of the L/R (or BMW) tool, which is quite expensive.
I used a lathe to turn the centre boss and welded a length of flat bar to it to form a handle. It just stops the engine turning over while you undo the centre nut. You will also need a 3/4 inch torque wrench to retighten the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I made up a tool that is a copy of the L/R (or BMW) tool, which is quite expensive.
I used a lathe to turn the centre boss and welded a length of flat bar to it to form a handle. It just stops the engine turning over while you undo the centre nut. You will also need a 3/4 inch torque wrench to retighten the nut.
Hi Dave,
Could you give me the specs, pls?
What size is the centre bolt? 27mm?

Is it correct that I don't need to remove the centre bolt to remove the vibration damper?

rgds
 

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Hi Kapila,

I don't have a drawing of the tool and I can't upload any more photos to Imageshack without paying. However I can try and describe the tool if you are going to get one made up locally.

It is basically a steel ring with an offset handle welded to it. The ring is 20mm thick, machined to outer diam 90mm and inner diam 45 mm
The six bolt holes are drilled at 62 mm pcd to take 8mm bolts x 50mm thread. Three bolts are enough though to bolt to the hub.
The handle is fabricated from 2" x 1/4" flat bar approx 350mm long. Needs to be off set by 2" for clearance.
If you google the tool LRT-12-105 you will find a picture of one. There are different designs.

I bent my handle undoing the old bolt. It was a considerable torque. Like about 280 ft lbs.
Rave says fit a new bolt 100 NM + 150 deg angular torque.

Yes, I think the bolt is 27mm, but can't check as the fan cover is on mine. Been a couple of years since I did it but I remember the vibration damper is held on by the 6 bolts, as mentioned. Once it is off you can then get at the crankshaft hub retaining bolt. I had to get it off to replace the front crankshaft seal. If you are just doing the vibration damper there is no need to go that far.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks. I'll ckeck if I need to replace the oil seal too.
If not , it'll be a piece of cake.

rgds
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi,
Finally got a used pulley of a BMW525TDS & fitted. Yes the 6 bolts remove both ac pulley & crank pulley. No need to remove the centre bolt.
Existing pulley had seperated in the centre partly & vibrates little even by hand.
Oil seal looked okay, so didn't try the centre bolt removal. The size is 22mm.
By the look of it I doubt the posibility of using a 'Impact wrench' as the space is very limited even if you remove the radiator..

thanks to all.

regds
 
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