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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I really need some help, I have had the rangie just a year now and it has so far cost me a fortune, when I first bought it last May, it was really sluggish but as I was new to Rangie's I wasn't sure if this was normal or not.

In July last year I just happened to spot some bottles of STP injector cleaner, so I thought to myself, it was worth a go, 2 bottles went in and within a few miles, the Rangie was flying and you could hear the Turbo whistling like a Jet engine.
Anyway all was fine until about 3 weeks ago when we had a cold Tuesday about -2°C, since then she has been like a snail to drive .

The local so called Rangie experts said the Turbo wastegate was seized shut, and charged me to release it, as it was last Wednesday night when I got the car back, the roads were slushy and dangerous so I couldn't give her a proper acceleration test.

However on Christmas eve I could, same old snail job. I have had a new fuel filter fitted, still no go,the car idles fine,starts first turn of the key too, and seems to rev well ?
I am baffled as to what can be the cause of this power loss, the computer doesn't find any faults, apart from the Blend flaps being stalled :)

Sorry to write so much but I am really frustrated.
Thanks
 

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Have you tried the STP again?
Do you get excessive smoke at all? White or black?

Its a bit odd that it does it after a cold spell rather than during bu the fact that the SPT worked once could indicate the injectors need checking.
Do you know anything about the history? If it had a lot of cold running there could be a lot of carbon buildup - maybe a few hours hard running (better still towing) will help it out.

Just a couple of ideas
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
I have tried quite alot of Injector cleaner so far and quite a few other things too :) no smoke white or grey.
So far I have 2 theories, 1 that the Waste gate of the Turbo is seized open or the Waste gate actuator diagphram isn't working, the Turbo pipes look pretty oiled up too.

The other theory is maybe the MAP sensor is defective as I unplugged it and went for a drive without noticing any changes I also did the same with the IAT sensor ( Intake Air Temp).I sent Rick the pick a PM which he kindly replied to quickly, he said I should spray some WD40 into the Turbo air intake pipe and see if it shifts the gate, which I intend to do tomorrow.

The annoying thing is that the garage that worked on it said they had freed the wastegate which they said was seized shut, which doesn't make sense to me, if it was seized shut there would be alot of Turbo pressure on the hoses from the Intercooler, which there is not, there is barely any pressure there at all, I can easily squeeze them shut by hand.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Disaster ! I sprayed some WD40 into the Turbo air intake as Rick the Pick suggested, I then got loads of smoke when I started her up, so I went for a test run and she blew oil all over the engine compartment , revved by herself to over 5000 rpm, at which point I switched her off immediately,but she kept running awhile before shutting off.
Now I am really screwed, no idea what has happened, my local garage reckon the Turbo seals have gone and that the engine was running off the engine oil.

I don't have much clues about Turbo's, anyone out there that can explain what has happened please ?
 

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HI i,ve had mine about a year as well and mine was sluggish as well especially trying to overtake have since had the ecu remapped (chipped) it,s a totally different beast mine is a 99 v and i,ve had no probs whatsoever really pleased with it if you can,t find any other probs with it mechanically i,d consider getting a re map you won,t be dissapointed neil
 

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Hi,

Your turbo is gone.. The revv happened because you engine was eating is own oil (or the wd40 if you put a abusive quantity :think: ) instead of diesel...

You need to clean up the hoses and admission, and reconstruct the turbo or buy another one and replace it.

Regards,
Sérgio
 

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Normally I would agree with turbo seals but if you had WD40 there it could have been running on that.

Can you still start it? Before you try have a method immediately available to totally shut the air supply - you can't guarantee to stop the fuel supply (Possibly Oil) so make sure you can stop the air if necessary.

IF you can start it and IF it runs OKish then see if you can get a turbo pressure gauge fitted. It doesn't need to be permanent but just for diagnostics.

Personally I would also have a proper look at the waste gate and if its not right be back to the garage getting my money back AND the job done right.

If it does start and starts to run away again then block the air supply immediately and you need a new Turbo. It doesn't sound like that though as you said it ran away with the ignition on and 'ran on' rather than 'ran away' once you turned it off. If it is running on engine oil as suggested below it would normally keep burning it until it runs out and the engine seizes unless you can intervene (stall it in a manual or block the air supply) so you could still be not so bad.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
The car is now at a garage that I trust, they rang me up a short time ago and said the Turbo is kanckered, they are hunting around for a reasonable replacement. :? :pray:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
Apparently the Engine is knackered too, the garage said the engine is breathing heavily, whatever that means ?
 

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atomic245 said:
Apparently the Engine is knackered too, the garage said the engine is breathing heavily, whatever that means ?
I would certainly want more details than that - it can't breathe properly without the turbo
 

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'Breathing heavily' in this context means there is a lot of blow-by past the piston rings. This pressurises the crankcase, forcing oil vapour through the breather system into the intake system.

HTH
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #12
Well the replacement engine is in with another Turbo but my garage reckon she is still running flat,so something else must be causing her to be so sluggish, any ideas ?

Also when I first got her in 2008 she was running sluggish too and after running STP injector cleaner through her she suddenly came back to life again, until last November when she went sluggish again and has been ever since, could a faulty MAP sensor cause this or a weak fuel pump ?

I can't seem to find a garage near Coventry who really know what their doing on the BMW diesel engine.

I forgot to mention that she has apparently been chipped.
 

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Fancy a trip to North Wales? I know a really good indi up there who knows them as his wife drives one.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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If your in Cov, and you need a land rover/ rangerover specialist...............J E Engineering.....probably not the cheapest in the area, but certainly the best, i studied vehicle design in Cov for 4 years, and worked with them via a placement i did with land rover. they know their s**t!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Pete,
I have booked her in for next Tuesday.I would still like to know what the error code means though.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #17
Update: I found a place in Birmingham that could test her today, apparently the stop solenoid is bad and the water temp sensor in the engine block is also bad.So I need to source those 2 items first.
 

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hi
if the stop solenoid is not working then she won't start as the solenoid is just a valve open or closed
is error code 0148 from L/R testbook?
Tony
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #19
No the error code was from another test unit, not sure which one.
The Rovacom test in Birmingham kept showing that the ECM was logging stop solenoid fault and water temp 0°C,
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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atomic245 said:
...., could a faulty MAP sensor cause this or a weak fuel pump ?

I can't seem to find a garage near Coventry who really know what their doing on the BMW diesel engine.

I forgot to mention that she has apparently been chipped.
Hi Atomic, sorry I miss your post.

So, I have/had all your problems...... : Engine temperature low; a wastegate stuck, and also MAP sensor.... :!: :
MAP sensor; if you disconnet the air tube, and you did not feel any difference, your MAP is not working.
(It´s my 3 used MAP that I put in the RR.... it could be from what I read a bad remap)

When I remap mine, my wastegate also was "stuck".... but looks fine now (use a product to clean internally your engine, next time you change your oil).

The RR now it´s not so "nervous", but I found, that he is more lazy when he have less than a 1/4 of diesel in the tank.
(just sharing ).
Also this engine need to be "calibrated" (sorry language issue), I think he need to be checked every 60.000 kms.

So my advice is to search a mechanics who really know this BMW engine, before spending more money.

But search for a new or used MAP, in my case it make all the difference.
 
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