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2015 Range Rover Sport HSE, 2004 Porsche Carerra 4S
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I have read a lot of threads regarding the retrofit of the bigger Brembo brake calipers that are standard on the supercharged/autobiography/SVR L494s. In case you haven’t read elsewhere, they are indeed a bolt on upgrade. Assume this is similar if not identical to the L405 as well.
I recently installed them on my 2015 HSE that I have had for a few years now and it was a very straightforward process. To be honest, the stock brakes were good but I can say that the brake feel is much better vs the stock calipers – more authoritative. The red calipers also look very cool IMO. I waited to do this mod until my rotors and pads were worn out. Total cost for me was less than having the dealer do the standard pads and rotors and I got an upgrade out of it. Any mechanic should be able to do this for you as well.
In the event someone wanted to do this on their HSE/other, here are the parts I ordered and an overview of what I did as a DIY process. The entire job took me about three hours including set-up, clean-up and road test. Most folks hand tighten things but please make sure you check you properly torque everything per spec on Topix. I would also recommend wearing a respirator or dust mask.


  • 2x Brembo calipers from 2014+ RRS L494 (I sourced these on Ebay)
    • New or used – just be sure of the condition if used
    • Part numbers vary between w/red, w/o red and SVR just make sure to get the same color!
  • 1L DOT 4 Brake Fluid

Part Number
Part Name
Front Brake Disc[SUP]1[/SUP]
Front Brake Pads[SUP]2[/SUP]
Rotor Bolt[SUP]3[/SUP]
Caliper Assembly Retainer Kit
Caliper Assembly Mount Bolt[SUP]3[/SUP]
Air Duct
Air Duct Screw
Wear Indicator[SUP]4[/SUP]
[SUP]1[/SUP] I installed non-JLR Brembo part number 09.A773.11 rotors
[SUP]2[/SUP] i installed non-JLR ceramic pads
[SUP]3[/SUP] Part can be re-used but recommend replacing
[SUP]4 [/SUP]Sensor is not interchangeable between standard and Brembo Brakes

REQUIRED TOOLS: (obviously you can get creative here depending on what you have available)
Caliper removal/installation:

  • Floor jack and jack stands
  • Sledge hammer (removing rotors)
  • Impact wrench
    • Cordless or shop air ½ inch drive
  • Torque wrenches
    • ½ inch drive
    • ¾ inch drive
  • Socket Wrenches
    • ½ inch drive
    • ¾ inch drive
  • Impact Six point impact sockets (metric)
    • ½ inch drive
      • 22 – lugs
      • 21 – caliper mount bolts
    • ¾ inch drive
      • 13 – caliper brake pad bolt
      • 14 – brake line attachment to caliper
  • Impact Star Sockets
    • ½ inch drive
      • T30 – air duct screw
      • T50 – rotor bolt
  • Narrow punch
  • Stout flat head screwdriver
  • Smaller/regular flat head screwdriver
  • Vice grips – (clamping brake lines)
  • Fluid catch pan
Brake Bleeding:

  • 11mm spanner/wrench
  • Motul Pressure bleeder – or whatever you prefer

  • Brake fluid Catch bottle


  1. If calipers are used:
    1. Remove all existing pads/hardware/etc.
    2. Inspect for any damage – take appropriate measures if damaged
    3. plug brake line connection port (foam earplugs can be useful here)
    4. clean with wheel cleaner and a nylon brush
    5. let dry
  2. Install air ducts using T30 screws


This procedure is outlined on Topix in detail with graphics – my high level summary provided below

  1. Use factory lift points to put car onto jack stands
    • Apply parking brake and wheel chocks first
  2. Remove front wheels
  3. Lay down material to protect your floor (if you care)
  4. Remove and discard existing sensor wire
    • driver side only
  5. Pry back existing pads from rotor using stout flathead screwdriver
    • Just far enough to clear any ridge that may be on the rotor
    • Opening bleed screw (11mm spanner) can make this easier
      1. Prepare to catch fluid if you do this
  6. Clamp rubber part of brake line using vice grips
    • Do not clamp too hard or you can damage the brake line
  7. Place fluid catch pan beneath the caliper
  8. Remove brake line using 14mm socket
    • Fluid will drain from the caliper – be careful not to get this anywhere near your paint!
    • If you clamped the brake line correctly almost no fluid should drain from the line
  9. This video is helpful from this point on:
  10. Remove two (2) caliper mount bolts on back of hub using 21mm impact socket and impact wrench (or do this manually with a breaker bar)
    • Start with bottom bolt then the top
    • Caliper assembly will basically fall off
    • Set aside
  11. Remove rotor
    • Use T50 socket
    • See video above
  12. Clean hub with a wire brush


  1. See video for rotor installation
    1. Opposite of removal
  2. See video for caliper installation
    1. 2x caliper mount assembly bolts (21mm)
  3. Install brake line and torque to spec
    1. 14mm socket
    2. Do not unclamp line yet
  4. See video for brake pad installation
    1. Use new brake pad retainer hardware
  5. Ensure bleed screws are tightened
    1. 11mm
  6. Unclamp brake line
    1. Check for leaks
  7. Install new brake sensor wire
    1. See video

BLEED BRAKES – not an in depth how-to on brake bleeding

I only bled my front brakes (outlined below) because I knew I didn’t let any air into the system but it is generally recommended you bleed all four wheels at this time. Brakes can be bled like any other car really as long as you aren’t touching the master cylinder/ABS pumps, etc.

  1. Put DOT 4 brake fluid into pressure bleeder and attach to master cylinder reservoir on driver side (USA).
  2. Pressurize tank (I used 12 psi but I wouldn’t go above 15)
  3. Bleed passenger side (USA) first
    1. Start with innermost bleeder valve
      1. Attach fluid catch bottle
      2. Open valve (11mm) and let fluid run out until no bubbles
      3. Close valve
    2. Repeat for outer bleeder valve
  4. Repeat for driver side caliper
  5. Pump brakes to ensure pedal tightens
  6. Install wheels and carefully road test!!!
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