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Discussion Starter #1
Good day to you all

CAR: 1996 Ranger Rover 4.6 HSE

I have post numerous times problems regards to my Range Rover, and are now fed up...

I have two major issues on the Range Rover:
1) ABS/TC/HB Lights on Dash Board are on and I have no brakes and message from diagnostics saying "no power on ECU Pin1 when ignition is switched on"
2) When driving the car the Gearbox do not sense what gear to be in, From time to to time it will randomly kick a gear down or just select neutral for a second.


Problem 1:
After a lot of research i did replace the ABS Pressure switch on the pump and replaced the ABS Relay with new one (Not Cheap). This sorted the problem out until 4 days later...
What happens was, I was driving at 100kmph/60mph when suddenly the 3 light just came on and brakes faded. This is concern to me, what can cause the pump just to go. If i replace the ABS pump with new one, will it last for 4 days, that is a lot of money just to wast in 4 days. Form what I can see is that if i switch the ignition on to position II the ABS Relay (After opening the unit) Go to a close position but the pump do not kick in. Why will the ABS relay close the circuit... Is this to do with the fuse box or is the pressure switch broken again. What cause the ABS relay to burn the ABS pump if so.

Problem 2:
This a random problem. the gearbox will suddenly change between gear with out me changing throttle position. One day the gearbox is 100% fine then the next moment all goes hay wire on the gear, confusion some where. i have checked the oil level witch is fine. i must note that I took it to the land Rover Dealer for Diagnostics and only problem they picked up was that the TPS (Throttle position sensor) on receives 75% of power where is they test the throttle when ignition is turned to position II and open throttle to open receive 100%. no why will the TPS only receive 75%.

I LOVE this car, but are running out of idea's. ANY help will gladly be appreciated....

PS: I have the RAVE CD....
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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First I would check the grounds. Bad grounds, which is very common, cause all sorts of problems with these cars. It could be a simple solution to your gearbox issues. Also, I would double check the transmission fluid.

As for the brakes... my first action would be to replace the accumulator. Use a junkyard part if you're not comfortable dishing out the money for a new one.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
kmagnuss Thanks for teh reply.

i about went trough all of the earths in the engine bay. The only one's I did not check are the ones under the drivers seat, witch is apparently most of the time the bugger messing around E621. The other earth E529, i for the love of me can not find it. On the Rave CD it says that it is in the RH side of the engine compartment, and on photo is under the alarm... But can not find it.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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have you checked the fuse box in the engine bay? Those things get hot and crack like the ice in spring time. If the top looks bad, underneath looks much worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have took it out and cleaned it. I personly do not know how they must look, idt does have some blakc burn marks on it.

I you have an email I can mail you the picture, if you do not mind, and then tell me that if I must replace them or not. :)
 

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make sure your battery and charging circuit are working correctly.These if not correct can cause all type of odd problems.
 

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With regards to your ABS issue, sounds to me like the ABS pump motor is dying, if not dead already.

If you put the key into position 2, and do not hear the pump go on then it's very likely that the ABS pump motor is seized.

Are you mechanically inclined? If so, take out the ABS pump, and separate the ABS pump motor from the pump assembly. There is going to be a metal rod on the motor side, which is part of the motor armature. Rotate it by hand, and see if it turns smoothly. If you can't rotate it, then you have a seized armature.

Any motor re-builder should be able to fix this-technically (A lot of them will refuse, because the motor housing is crimped shut, not bolted). I've had this operation done this year. The cost was $250USD-certainly cheaper than buying a new ABS pump assembly.
 
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