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Check your lifters before buttoning it back up. I just changed a head on my 6.2 and apparently one of the little wire clips that holds the lifter together was gone so when I pulled the pushrod out, the little dish in the top of the lifter fell out. Didn't notice the problem until I started it up and the pushrod rammed itself through the lifter. Luckily I was able to use parts from a spare gm 350 gasser lifter that I had laying around to repair the 6.2 lifter. Just something to watch out for.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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2,032 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
The head gasket was blown. Making it hard to start and leaking water out from the head.

You'd think that by putting a different kind of non- Land Rover engine in it I'd be done with head gaskets. Well lesson learned head gasket God's. Well played Land Rover. Well played

https://youtu.be/LB4nehTMzuo

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #43
Ok, I haven't updated in a while. My buddy and I bought some defenders 110's and have been fixing those up.


I finally got to work on this last night.


The new engine had a 4L80E on it. Unfortunately I didn't realize the flexplate was different until I had the transmission all bolted up and was trying to hook the torque converter up to it. I had to order a flexplate for a 700R4. That been sitting in the garage for a month now. I decided to finally swap it out last night. It actually didn't go to bad and I had it swapped out and back together in about 3 hours. With some time left in the night, I decided it was time to redo the transmission crossmember I had cobbled together in a hurry when I first did the swap.


I had purchased a cross-member for a chevy truck with a 700R4 about 8 months ago, but they sent me the wrong one. I think they sold me one for a 4x4. They apologized and refunded me my money. I asked how they wanted me to ship it back to them. They said I could just keep it. So its been collecting dust on the shelf for months. Last night I took some measurements, figured out how to shorten it down and make it mount up to my 4x4 700R4.


I just bought a tig welder and decided it was time to practice on something. So after cutting this thing up, I welded it all back together with the tig welder. It went pretty good. I'm starting to get the hang of it. My welds are not the pretty yet. But I can work on that. I know I got good penetration and things are not going to break.


After I finished building that, I went to bed.


This morning I installed it and welded my mounting points into the frame. It fits very well, uses the stock bushings, and has a lot more clearance than the old one. I'll try to post some pictures when I get around to it.


I only have a short list of things left to do:



  1. Have the rear driveshaft lengthened
  2. Hook up the transmission wiring
  3. Figure out the transmission kick down cable / pressure cable (or go full manual conversion, probably going to do this)
  4. Put the hood on
  5. Paint the new wheels I got for it
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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2,032 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
some pictures

Image uploading. Refresh page to view


Image uploading. Refresh page to view
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #45
Took it for a drive around the block.

Need to finish the following

Longer rear driveshaft
Install front driveshaft
Exhaust system rebuild
Transmission valve body for manual shifts




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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
summit racing and jegs offer an electronic controller for the 4l80e and other ecu controlled trannies. may be worth a look.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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2,032 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I have a 700R4 for a reason. No electronics needed if you swap out the valve block.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #49
Going in deep here. Full manual reverse shifting valve body in the 700R4. Got it apart. Not nearly as hard as I though.

I’ll put it back together tomorrow I’m sick of getting dripped on.








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Discussion Starter #50
Full manual reverse valve body with engine braking is installed.

Wasn’t horrible. The instructions sucked. Kept getting stuck or scared I was going to screw it up. But it’s all back together. I’ll fill it up tomorrow and hopefully take it for a quick spin.

All I have left to do is hook up some wiring from the transmission to a switch so I can control the torque converter lockout.












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Discussion Starter #51
Filled the transmission with fresh ATF. Started it up, moved it back and fort a few inches. IT WORKS!

Just have to finish the wiring on it. Then I'm done finally with the tranny!
 

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Man, I admire your courage there! Looking good, be exciting to drive.

I decided to stick with my 3 speed Chrysler power-glide (1983) and I am in the process of changing my kickdown cable to better match my custom Throttlebody EFI setup. Initially I cursed the 3 speed and was going to convert to manual, but decided to play with my kickdown setting to find that it can work much better than I thought.

Your adventures are a whole different game! Dead impressed!
 
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