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Discussion Starter #61
Hi Guys, So I have another query, new plugs, new HT leads, injector cleaner, valve stem seal, solution all in the fuel. When I started engine was running nice and smoothly yet still black smoke. Please be aware I haven't had it tuned. After a few minutes of running it sounded like it start miss firing until I revved the engine, does this mean too rich in fuel and spark plugs already carboning up. Please could you provide some input. I'm hoping to get the Ranger to a mechanic. Would this be your recommendations?
 

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Yes take it to a mechanic!!
Black smoke is rich.. did you clean and recheck the plugs after a good run?
have you done any of the things recommended in earlier posts? Has the condensation disappeared?
I believe you have the flapper system which does have a mixture adjustment on it but you need to do basic stuff before you fiddle with this like checking cold start injector, temperature sensors etc, etc,
if you don’t know how the system works don’t touch it!!
i also sent you a link to a workshop manual in an earlier post which has a full description of the EFI system and testing procedures, have you done anything with that..........
 

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Seconding the recommendation to take it to a mechanic, but with a caveat. DON'T take it to some random repair shop down the road, they will likely have no idea how to work on an old rover and will probably just break something or make it worse. Find a reputable British auto repair shop, even if it's a ways away. A Rover is not a honda civic, so unless they have specific experience with 80's era British injection systems, don't let them touch it.
 

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Find a reputable British auto repair shop, even if it's a ways away. A Rover is not a honda civic, so unless they have specific experience with 80's era British injection systems, don't let them touch it.
L-Jet is extremely common, any tech with two brain cells knows how it works. If they can work on an 88 Civic they can work on an 88 Rover. Specialist shops take you to the cleaners, guaranteed, with generic ones you’re at least gambling.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Hi Cortinamk2, yes, down loaded that manual. Haven't taken out the plugs again. There's still condensation, good???
Have discovered the thermostat switch isn't working, will change that before I drive it off to a mechanic for tuning. Yes there is a mixture adjustment, use an Ellen key just after the air flow meter, but I don't know enough about this so off to the mechanics after replacing the thermostat switch. It's remaining closed. No coolant circulating.
Seconding the recommendation to take it to a mechanic, but with a caveat. DON'T take it to some random repair shop down the road, they will likely have no idea how to work on an old rover and will probably just break something or make it worse. Find a reputable British auto repair shop, even if it's a ways away. A Rover is not a honda civic, so unless they have specific experience with 80's era British injection systems, don't let them touch it.
Hi LanceL, well noted. I'll do just that, I see your point. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Hi My Helpful friends, Ok different question, electrics. I'm an electrician, not getting power to Horn, Hazards, indicator unit, tested fuse, all good, traced circuit back to a Multi function unit in binnacle. Where is this binnacle normally located?
 

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Usually the switch block collar around top of steering column.

Take off "jacket" may have to remove wheel first to access.

Tails from this are running down under dash into multi box plug connectors, so check there for supply etc before dismantling.
 

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Like moths to a light bulb....
Ok I got into my Range Rover today and grabbed the round thing in front of me and nothing happened... what’s wrong with this thing
Do I need to take the motor apart or what???
If I pull all the wires out from the dash
It should still run... right...
 
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Agree Mikieman, methinks someone is pulling our legs!!
 

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Agree Mikieman, methinks someone is pulling our legs!!
Yep
And the bad part is I’ve been setting in this rover for hours waiting on someone to tell me what’s wrong with my rover... it’s hot and my hands are hurting from holding this round thing...
I think I’m going to have to pull out all the wires ... then stand on the hood....
I’ll bet that should do it...
:devilish:
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Usually the switch block collar around top of steering column.

Take off "jacket" may have to remove wheel first to access.

Tails from this are running down under dash into multi box plug connectors, so check there for supply etc before dismantling.
Thanks, I'm sure it is a power issue from the hazard switch , but will remove the steering wheel covers and check. According to the electrical diagram power comes from fuse to hazard switch first then to flasher unit then to steering column switched. If head lamps work, I cannot see why the horn, indicators won't work. Anyway I will test for power.
 

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I'm an electrician? Really? Me thinking you would be able to sort this one out. Basic wire continuity.. sounds pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Hi, Yes, no issue sorting, I found the problem. Bad connection in the steering column. Anyway I think this restoration project has come to an end. I think I was over ambitious. Cost to restore is beyond my budget. Engine sounds sweet when running. So on the market it goes.
 

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Like moths to a light bulb....
Ok I got into my Range Rover today and grabbed the round thing in front of me and nothing happened... what’s wrong with this thing
Do I need to take the motor apart or what???
If I pull all the wires out from the dash
It should still run... right...
Wait.... You don't think it's the charcoal cannister? What if he doubles them up?
 
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