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Discussion Starter #1
I'm start a project in restoring a 1988 Rover Classic. On collection of the vehicle it would start but run rough. Placed on a car trailer Towed home, tried starting, engie turns over well but not starting. Can anyone direct me to the first place to look. It has stood for more than 12months. Possibly fuel filter blocked? Coil breakdown which I can't see being the problem. Any other suggestions? Many thanks Julian.
 

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I would first try to spray starter fluid into the intake and see if it starts...
If it does it’s a fuel problem...
If no start it is an ignition problem...
Then I would replace the distributor cap and rotor...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Mikieman, thanks, theres spark but no fuel getting to the absorption chamber
 

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Oh dear. And you plan to restore this car?

What you are looking at is an emission devise that deals with fumes from the natural breathing of the fuel tank. It stops fumes from being released in the atmosphere and does not play a role in the running of your engine.

For the stage you are in you need to go back to the basics to get the engine to idle and then run under load. You are looking at the basics fuel, spark, compression. By using starter fluid you ignore the fuel delivery temporarily. The engine is turning so we assume there is compression, at least enough to make it fire, well it did fire before so there must be something there.

Assuming it does not fire, you are now left with most likely a missing spark. This is a fairly simple system as it does not have a computer or any other system integration. You start with pulling a plug and check for spark from the distributor and then directly from the coil. This would identify an issue with the distributor (change rotor and cap). If there is no spark from the coil you can check the coil (ohm meter) if that is likely good your amplifier is not working (common issue) and needs replacing.

If it does fire on starter fluid, your spark is good and you need to look at fuel. Bit more involved there but I would start checking if the pump is running (listen) and fuel is reaching the injectors (open fuel line).

If you have spark and fuel pressure, but the injectors do not fire you have a injection system issue which will be a bit harder to trouble shoot. However since you had some life earlier and it was not completely dead it is likely to be one of the above and a fairly simple fix.
 

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Ah got a bit a carried away, you said you had spark. Assuming also then it will fire on starter fluid (or brake cleaner fluid etc).

I think most likely your fuel pump is not working. If you cannot hear it start, try bypassing the fuel pump relay.
 

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Oh dear. And you plan to restore this car?

What you are looking at is an emission devise that deals with fumes from the natural breathing of the fuel tank. It stops fumes from being released in the atmosphere and does not play a role in the running of your engine.

For the stage you are in you need to go back to the basics to get the engine to idle and then run under load. You are looking at the basics fuel, spark, compression. By using starter fluid you ignore the fuel delivery temporarily. The engine is turning so we assume there is compression, at least enough to make it fire, well it did fire before so there must be something there.

Assuming it does not fire, you are now left with most likely a missing spark. This is a fairly simple system as it does not have a computer or any other system integration. You start with pulling a plug and check for spark from the distributor and then directly from the coil. This would identify an issue with the distributor (change rotor and cap). If there is no spark from the coil you can check the coil (ohm meter) if that is likely good your amplifier is not working (common issue) and needs replacing.

If it does fire on starter fluid, your spark is good and you need to look at fuel. Bit more involved there but I would start checking if the pump is running (listen) and fuel is reaching the injectors (open fuel line).

If you have spark and fuel pressure, but the injectors do not fire you have a injection system issue which will be a bit harder to trouble shoot. However since you had some life earlier and it was not completely dead it is likely to be one of the above and a fairly simple fix.
yep when I saw that post I felt it was a lost cause to explain what was presented...
It is almost hard to believe someone with this lack of basic knowledge of how a motor works... would buy a rover...
my shade tree observation...
 

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If the starter fluid doesn't work, then it's good to verify that you have spark everywhere and not just the king lead, and that it's consistent and strong. One of my trusty little toys is an inline spark tester, plug it into each lead and if it flashes, voila, spark! If no flashy, no sparky. Dirt cheap and super helpful, see amazon link below. Assuming everything is wired up properly, possible spark problems include bad leads, bad distributor cap/rotor, bad coil, bad ignition amplifier, or fouled plugs (less likely since you said it did start once). If you can verify spark, then fuel could be the fuel pump (mentioned above and a bit of a pain to change out) a clogged fuel filter (cheap easy fix), or something electrical (pump relay). Start with those tests and let us know the results, after which we will happily help you troubleshoot further. Good Luck!

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Guys, had already bought the inline spark checker, all good. Since I'm not getting fuel to the fuel chamber, there must be a blockage some since on pickup of the vehicle there was life, granted not a lot of life. I believe it was the fule being used up in the fuel chamber. I bought the Haynes workshop manual 1970-1992 but it doesn't appear to cover the electrical fuel pumpining system. Having watch a few YouTube videos it appears the pump is on the fuel level sender unit. Is this pump on the sender unit replacable or do I have to replace the complete unit? Also, is there an inline filter between the pump/tank and the fule chamber? I'm guessing all I need to do is get underneath and have a look.

Any input is much appreciated. I do have some basic mechanical knoweledge, It's been a few decades since I worked on something like this. electrical is my trade. I did recondition my 1983 Ford Cortina back in 1990, granted a littl smaller and simpler. Thanks to those guys who gave me some positive feed back.
 

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I think in 1990 they added a cover over the fuel pump for easy access it is located in the rear under the carpet...
I would look and see if the previous owner might has added one...
Look for and download the rave ... it is the digital workshop manual for the Range Rover
Also in your country .. there are quite a lot of extremely knowledgeable Land
Rover owner mechanics...
use every resource you can
Be patient and careful
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Mikieman,

Many thanks, the owner left me in a boz a brand new littl brown kind of pump look thing. Perhaps that is a new pump. Is rave an workshop manual?
Cheers.
 

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Yes it is a workshop manual
I don’t have a link
But it is out there somewhere
There are cd workshop manuals on eBay
But it is just the rave on a cd
Google it
It should come up a free download
287578

287579

287580

287581

here some examples
And needed information
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Mikieman, followed the link given earlier, had to pay $29 but it won't download, keeps coming up with an error. Oh well that's $29 down the drain. I'll keep looking.
Thanks
 

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It has been a while since I have looked for it.., but if you are going to pay for it
Look to eBay
Range Rover classic workshop manual
It will be less expensive
And will be mailed to you
There will be plenty of choices
So carefully read The ones that interest you
And make your pick...
Also the one you paid for was it on a computer or a phone
If a phone that could be the error....
Originally
Way back when
I bought two off eBay before I found a good download link...
I use the ones I got from ebay
 

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So the fuel pump and level sender are in the middle of the tank under a small door in the rear floor like Mikieman said, it's a single unit so I believe you'd have to replace the whole thing. I'd first try to jump it with 12v from the terminals on top of it to see if the pump runs, that will at least tell you if the pump is crap or it's an electrical gremlin elsewhere (if you are sure that it's not running when you try to start the car). If the pump runs, it could be a bad ground somewhere (an all too common problem) or the relay or a fuse perhaps.

The fuel filter is located in the passenger side rear wheel well. Look in there and you should see a small silver canister attached near the inside fender well by the frame rail. they're cheap and easy to replace, worth doing even if it's not the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It has been a while since I have looked for it.., but if you are going to pay for it
Look to eBay
Range Rover classic workshop manual
It will be less expensive
And will be mailed to you
There will be plenty of choices
So carefully read The ones that interest you
And make your pick...
Also the one you paid for was it on a computer or a phone
If a phone that could be the error....
Originally
Way back when
I bought two off eBay before I found a good download link...
I use the ones I got from ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi , it was bought over the computer. Forget the sites name.it downloads half way then stops with fail error
 

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Google search for Range Rover classic manual found this when I clicked the landy.ee it downloaded a 854 page manual.
worth a go(y) 8A8B1473-0491-4AAB-8834-DB0313F46B16.png
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi Mikieman, you awesome, thanks man. Finally got the RR in my garage yesterday to begin work on it
 
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