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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought the car, the lady said her radio wouldnt work, you can see the stations and the RDS work, NAV works but nothing coming out of the speakers. Then right before I bought the car, she said it started working. Its worked ever since (being about 2 weeks) and I didnt drive the car for 3 days and the same problem occured this morning, NOTHING coming out of the speakers. After about 2 hrs of driving, it came back in as well as the NAVI guy started talking and then it turned off again and then on... etc So all day its been coming in and out. Any ideas!!!??? TIA
 

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My guess is the remote on from the headunit to the amps isn't working properly - maybe a break in the wire or at the headunit connection.

I can recommend a guy in Lake in the Hills if that's close to you
 

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Discussion Starter #4
vmystikilv said:
When the sound goes out does the Nav still work voice wise?
no, the NAV voice does NOT work. The NAV works but the voice doesnt when the radio doesnt as well. Its only when the radio starts working is when the NAV voice starts as well
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rogan said:
My guess is the remote on from the headunit to the amps isn't working properly - maybe a break in the wire or at the headunit connection.

I can recommend a guy in Lake in the Hills if that's close to you

funny that you mention the remote, bc iv noticed when I lock the car now with the remote, it doesnt do the little "chirp" when you lock it twice on the remote. You cant hear the chirp now, The guy you are thinking of is in lake villa and yes it is close and yes I know him if thats the guy you're talkin about
 

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Remote-on is a power wire from your headunit (RAVE calls it the SB wire - grey and black??), has nothing to do with the key remote. I recommend Tom Meyers at http://www.12velectronics.com , 9114 Virginia Rd, Suite 111, Lake in the Hills, IL. 60156.

He's not a Rangerover specialist but he's an honest bloke and knows car audio which is more important. I know him through a specialist car audio forums and respect his knowledge and opinion. Have bought a couple of things off him and always been fast and friendly to deal with.
 

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Check to see if your getting 12v at the remote wire going into the sub when your sound does not work.

If no 12v then it's a remote lead problem.

If no sound with all speakers then the remote problem is either at the back of the head unit or in the head unit.

Again test for 12v at the back of the head unit to see if the radio is switching to 12v when switched on. This will identify if it's the head unit.

as rogan says The remote wire (SB wire - grey and black) goes from 0v to 12v when the radio is switched on to switch the amps within the doors and the sub on
 

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Discussion Starter #8
keithdixon said:
Check to see if your getting 12v at the remote wire going into the sub when your sound does not work.

If no 12v then it's a remote lead problem.

If no sound with all speakers then the remote problem is either at the back of the head unit or in the head unit.

Again test for 12v at the back of the head unit to see if the radio is switching to 12v when switched on. This will identify if it's the head unit.

as rogan says The remote wire (SB wire - grey and black) goes from 0v to 12v when the radio is switched on to switch the amps within the doors and the sub on

2 things:

1. I disconnected the sub completely since the (2) sub speakers are blown

2. Does the headunit have anything to do with it since the NAV voice is affected to? I should check the headunit when its theres sound or no sound or it doesnt matter?
 

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the sound has to come through the amps to end up at the speakers.

The amps need to be switched on (with the switch wire) to operate.

even if the sub is removed the wiring to them will still be there.
(i suggested the sub because it's easy to get to)

if your able to check when there is no sound you would expect to get 0v on the switch wire and hopefully if the sound does come on it should go 12v
so check both if possible
 

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If you haven't got one, ghet a cheap digital multimeter. They're worth their weight in gold. Makes it very easy to test circuits. My one cost me about US$6 with batteries from a local shop and I've probably used it 200 times.

Hope I'm not telling a chicken how to lay eggs. Set the multimeter on V dc, then black wire to chassis of car, red wire to the grey & black in the subwoofer wiring loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ill have it checked out today but this is what happened last night:

I went for a 300 mile trip. The first 150 miles was perfect, the music was playing, nav was working and towards the end of the trip the sounds were starting to fade where I would have to blast it just so I can hear a little. Then on my way back, the other 150 miles, DEAD, nothing, no sound from nav or radio. Just like before, you can see it all working and no sound is coming. I swear I feel like that chirp when i lock the car got affected to since it doesnt do the chirp anymore.
 

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Check out the DSP amp (located behind the CD changer). They are notorious for giving problems in the 2000MY- on models.
 

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Yep.

Remove the sub-box, you can then get to the CD autochanger, and behind this is an amp about 6" x 5" called the DSP amp (apparently the same as in the BMW X5) which drives each of the amps by the door speakers. It is quite easy to get to and change.

This amp gave me no end of problems before I changed it including crackling sounds that would come and go randomly, sounds from just the rear speakers, but strangely never affected the SatNav.
 

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Have you got a dsp or do you have amps in each door?

"the easiest way to check is simply switch on your existing LR head unit (Alpine factory fitted), scroll through the treble, bass, fader options etc, and DSP off / front / spatial should be the last option. If you can't see the DSP option, it's unlikely you have the DSP amp. "

Have you located the switch wire going to where the sub was?
Do you have any readings from that wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have the DSP amp, but I dont have the amp connected, I took the amp out, maybe ill put it back to see if that makes a difference, I didnt check the readings yet, tonight I will
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok, I checked for 12v on the headunit (black and gray wire)and the black and gray wire for the sub in the back. When everything was off, they both showed 0v as soon as I turn the radio on, it showed 12v both on the headunit and the the wire for the sub. While I was checking for 12v for the the headunit, the sound was ON and was good but shortly after the sound went at away but the headunit still showed 12V, since im getting 12v from both the headunit and the rear sub speaker, does that mean its the headunit since it shows it was getting power to it but it was looking the sound???
 
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