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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, sat drinking tennents super and wondering how much will it cost this time.
The car overheated Thursday last hot day, took through the car wash left the engine running just in case I needed a quick getaway, rough car washes near me you know!!. park up to straighten the mirrors and it chucked out a load of coolant at idle(did have the air con on for the first time in ages), made my way home and it over heated in the red zone that self righteous red light came on a I feared slipped liner that me divorced.
got it home let it cool started with the cheapest option first changed the expansion cap, made not difference, plugged in fault mate and watched the temp rise to 121c and red light came on again after about 10miles or 25mins country roads.

Read some of the great comments on the site and decided to check the radiator wasn't sure if it should be like a just boiled kettle but thought it must be hot because I have just red lined and temp is 117c. However when I touched it was not even just warm, I could not get my shrek hands that far down but according to Kam (see quote below) it should be hot to touch, given it was running at close to 120c should I be able to lay a hand on it and not get a burning feeling, the top hose i could not touch as i rubbed my arm against it and yes it hurt somewhat.

Do you think I need a new rad or could it be the thermostat, please these would be great options at the mo rather than a new block because of a slipped liner?

Kams quote "Once the car has warmed up and the needle is in the middle, switch it off and remove the fan shroud. You will then be able to put your hand down between the gap - make sure the rad is hot to the touch across the whole rad surface."


Cheers
Onetime
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Goatwerks said:
Posible stuck closed thermostat. This would prevent coolant flow to the radiator.
Hi Thanks for that (much cheaper option) but the rad is hot at the top plastic bit at the top so is the top hose and coolant comes out of the pipe at the left hand side, that where i bleed the system from, would this still happen if the themostat is closed?
cheers
onetime
 

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121C.... YIKES! I would have pulled over and waited for the temp to go to normal again instead of driving it home at red line! These vehicles are very sensitive to heat and you could have done some serious damage to your engine, and you might have already done some. It sounds like your thermostat is not working properly as it is not allowing the coolant to move around, which would explain the uneven temps of the in and out hoses of the radiator, they should be very similar temperatures (only a heat gun could tell the difference). The other option is a clogged radiator but, since this happened suddenly instead of gradually my thought is the thermostat. It is not to expensive and is often wise to just replace it as a preventive measure because, it is common for them to just wear out. A clogged up system will cause excessive pressure and is most likely the reason it chucked coolant. It may be a slipped liner like you said but, I would start with the cheapest first. Good Luck! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi all thanks for the advice, just done the thermostat test and does anybody know how to tell it fooked, i put it in boiling water and it lets a trickle through is that right, it was fully closed before and nothing came through. Is a trickle of water right. or should i get a new one anyway, i have had the motor since 94k now has 130k on it how long do they last. I am hopeing its this cheap as chips repair.
cheers again
onetime
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The thermostat will have a temp. number on it, when you put it in a pan of water you should also have a temp. probe in the pan( cooking probe ) will do turn, on the heat and watch the stat it will open a little at a time but when your temp probe reaches the same temp. as your stat it should be fully openned.


Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi scotty, should i be able to see it open because i cannot, with boiling water out of the kettle, i understand it should be fully open at 96c boiling water is 100c. do you think it is gone, really just trying to narrow things down a little.
I cannot see it move at all and just a little water comes through with boiling kettle water.
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Onetime
 

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I think you'll want to submerse it in a pot of water, not just pour water on it.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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If you even vaguely suspect it Onetime, just change it for new Genuine part. Just put the cost down to preventitive... Even if it hasn't fixed the issue, you at least know that part is working properly.

They are about £20 + VAT from the dealership parts department.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks all for the advice, will change it monday am and keep you posted about the results.
cheers
Onetime
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi all still no joy, changed the thermostat, went for a run and overheated after about 15 miles (it chucked out a load of water when i stopped and then temp rose), took it to a guy who has worked on these before, he checked the radiator with a lazer thermoiter and flushed it all seams well, checked the water pump (took it off), cleaned out the breather pipe was blocked. basically he was in the dark as i was, said it was a coolant flow problem but can not find out where it would be. He did to try a change of expansion tank, as the drop down pipe inside maybe blocked. is this right? could this cause my issues.
I left the car for a few hours and just had a look and the top hose is now sucked in flat, does anyboby know what this is about?
cheers
Onetime
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Do you mean the overflow pipe is blocked?

Not sure. Was the radiator at fault then? Is it working now? Could be worth tracking down a new radiator as well.

Have you checked the reservoir for cracks or replaced the cap for a new one? The system is clearly pressurising as it gets hot, but does it keep its pressure? It doesn't sound like it... :pray:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi the pipe that comes off the left hand side of the rad, needed and high pressure air to clear it, and also it was used on the expansion inlet too, some plastic stuff came out. got new cap first as they are cheap, rad looks well after he checked it. The top hose os flat now so must be loosing pressure from somewhere what does this mean.
I was going to order a new expansion bottle, and try that before the rad.
what does anyone thing, really getting stuck now.
cheers
onetime
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Not wanting to mention the He*d G*asket, but is there a chance that coolant is getting to somewhere it shouldn't be? Is it worth doing a hydrocarbon test on the coolant before moving on to radiator...?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi could the expansion bottle cause these issues, as the guy suggested i change that to see. If not i will have to take it back and let him work on it poss done a test on the coolant.
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Onetime
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Before doing any more, maybe get the test done. Or do a pressure test. You can do it easily and it would at least give you an idea as to the problem, either it is a system blockage or something more serious...
 

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If your hose goes flat when the coolant cools I think that shows you are low on coolant and that the system is tight which should be a good thing. If the bleeder port [at the top of the rad] was plugged then the rad cannot release air and hot air will really pressurize your system. The thing to do is to make sure that the bleed line off the rad is moving air/fluid into the resevoir tank which you can see as soon as engine is running. [ie. you will see bubbles and liquid shoot out in a fine stream] If you found stuff at the rad end it's possible it's plugged at the resevoir end also [resevoir should be fine if clean] This is enough to prevent the system from burping properly and could be "the" cause. Another poster on here found bits of silicone in his bleeder which had also plugged the small hole so its not unusual and if silicone was used on the water pump gasket [which is normally not unusual] a bit could have broken off. I really hope that the burping issue is all you have. Without being rude did you follow the refill procedures? How old is the hose that collapses on cooling. Someone else also suggested pointing the nose uphill to aid in getting the air out. Good luck. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi all, something wrong with the site so not been able to post results, rangie now seams to be running fine, got hold of and expansion tank from a breakers and swapped it. think the old one had the tube blocked that run down into the tank, on the breaker one i covered the hole on the inside and and could blow through, on the old one i could not.
End result the coolant system was unable to self bleed as the pipe was blocked into the tank and the cap seals the one you can see when the cap is off and overheated. no head gasket or slipped liner, maybe there is a god.
Anyway thanks for all your help and advice, the funny thing is that when it first happened i started at cheapest to most expensive to replace and the expansion tank was on my list to get last thursday as it not that expensive along with the cap, but they don't have one in stock,sods law again, would have saved me a worrying weekend if they had one.
anyway thanks again
cheers
Onetime
 
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