[Malafax_dand]

So I am loosing coolant. Great. Good news, it that the coolant loss is from a leak in the radiator somewhere and not through a mysterious head gasket problem.

I have coolant collecting on the bottom right hand corner of the radiator. Right next to the transmission cooler. My question is, are pretty much all Radiator leaks due to a broken or cracked radiator, or can the leak be somewhere in a hose fitting, clamp, etc.... I am asking what the vast majority of leaks are caused by. It sounds like the vast majority are due to failures in the radiator housing itself. Is this true?

 

[RRPhil]

I had a coolant leak in the same area you described. Nothing very significant but enough to leave a small wet patch on the road after I'd parked the car for a while. I wasn't absolutely sure whether it was coming from the radiator or not but I replaced it anyway and the leak disappeared completely. If you're still on your original radiator it's probably a sensible precaution to replace it anyway because of the transmission oil cooler supply issue. When I removed mine the old radiator weighed significantly more than the new one because it was so full of sludge/corrosion.

Phil

 

[Malafax_dand]

The radiator was replaced at around 49K miles. I am currently at 78K miles.
Bummer if I have a cracked radiator.
Is it not repairable? Like small spot weld.

 

[SGW]

I have had 3 radiators in 2 years all leaking from the same place, near the top on the right hand side (transmision cooler side). IMO this is a manufacturing fault obviously denied by LR. I have checked the engine and there are no pressurisation problems.
Stewart.

 

[Malafax_dand]

The leak appears to be at the bottom right hand side behind where the transmission cooler bracket attaches to the radiator body. There appears to be a junction behind that bracket. Possibly a leak there. I am inspecting the RAVE manual right now. First impression is that the Transmission cooler has a circulating pathway with the engine coolant? Nah, that sounds silly. But I am looking at the RAVE nonetheless.

 

[Malafax_dand]

Ohh, there it is...

The coolant pump also circulates coolant to the radiator-mounted transmission fluid cooler and the
liquid cooled alternator housing via flexible hoses.

The leak is not any higher than the bracket that holds the Transmission cooler assembly. I will focus on the Tcooler.

Anyone know if the After market Radiator assembly through Rover Connection is any better than the OEM?

 

[Malafax_dand]

Upon further inspection, all of the transmission cooler lines are clean. The leak is comming from further up. I tracked it down. Looks like new radiator for me. Now if I can just smack the viscous fan coupling off the pulley. I hate that part. :evil:

 

[Malafax_dand]

I picked up a rebuilt radiator for significanly less than a new OEM radiator. I could go through about 4 rebuilt radiators before I come close to the cost of a new one. Considering that a new one fails in about 40K miles, we will see how long the rebuilt lasts.

Here is a huge Tip: The BMW Blue collant was about 2 USD cheaper at the BMW motorcycle dealership than the BMW automobile dealership. I picked up a gallon of BMW blue coolant for about 19 USD. Considering that top quality aftermarket coolant can cost about 15 USD per gallon. Why bother fussding with finding a compatible aftermarket replacement. Just go spend an extra 10-15 USD for two gallons of BMW Blue coolant and sleep better at night.

The replacement procedure is very very easy. Although I forgot to drain the engine block. Anyone think that I should go back and do the flush and refill again, because I did not really get everything out?

 

[Man-O-War]

You are fine, leftover coolant from the block already mixed with your newly added coolant and its all good. Draining the block is a messy hassle.

Thanks for the bike coolant price tip, i need to replace thermostat and might throw new coolant in there at the same time.

 

[jaybear]

The replacement procedure is very very easy. Although I forgot to drain the engine block. Anyone think that I should go back and do the flush and refill again, because I did not really get everything out?[/quote]

Did you tape it for You Tube ????

Jaybear

 

[Malafax_dand]

Tip number two:
Never go with a rebuilt radiator with these vehicles. The rebuilt radiator leaks as well. The repair job on the rebuilt radiator did not hold. Maybe these radiators can not be rebuilt.

I am trying to source an after market radiator. Seems there is an aftermarket alternative made by BEHR (W0133-1652213). Has anyone used this radiator? Any quality here or am I forced to go with the LR part?

I will video the next install...

 

[jaybear]

Quote

I will video the next install...

Unquote

Thats very nice of you Malafax dand , as it will help us the 2 left handed guys ... :thumb:

Keep on posting ;

Jaybear :dance:

 

[Malafax_dand]

I filmed the best that I could of the Radiator Removal and Refit. The light is a bit off but you should be able to see how easy the job really is. The hardest part, by far is the removal of the engine fan.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=19&Itemid=78

 

[Malafax_dand]

Further research has revealed that the original Land Rover Radiator was manufactured by BEHR. So there is no difference between the BEHR radiator part number W0133-1652213 and the original Land Rover part, except of course for about 250 USD and a sticker.