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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Where did you order the tool from? Any chance of being able to buy one of them? think it would be a handy thing to have in my tool kit since I go and look at a lot of issues to do with locking and immobilizers etc...

Haven't had one yet that's superlocked itself, but would be handy to have something like this for that odd occasion!

Marty
 
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A friend of mine works in a toolmakers workshop ;-) and as a hobby, earning some mony in his spare time he does some manufacturing at home too... has a rather big shed with ......yes, how are those called in English..... Lathe? and grinder and some other machinery at home.... He made my EAS spacerblocks as well.
 

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Hi what a cheeky boy you are, you've pinched my design, i knew i should have put a Pat. no. on it, how about a cut of the profit! Ha Ha Ha. Best regards sillyboy
 
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Discussion Starter #24
After searchin here I got a perfect desription from Sillyboy on how to get the door open without damage to the bodywork...
I did it today, according to his "manual" and made a little pictorial of it:

To get to the doorlockpin from the front door, you need to remove the rear door..
Open the rear door 20140922_144543.jpg
and pull the rubberhose out of the B-post, carefully pull the wires and the three connectors out of the B-post and disconnect them
20140922_144616.jpg 20140922_144710.jpg
with a screwdriver, carefully remove the circlips securing the hinges , with a hammer and pliers remove the pin in the doorcatcher
20140922_144836.jpg 20140922_144947.jpg
Now carefully sway the door open till the hinges can be tilted apart and the door taken away from the vehicle
20140922_145134.jpg
put the door somewhere safe.
Now you can see the doorlockpin we need to drill 20140922_145159.jpg
According to Silly Boy's description, I had the tool machined 20140922_145250.jpg

Put the tool over the pin and drill with the 5mm drill a hole in the doorlockpin 20140922_145324.jpg 20140922_145359.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #25
after drilling the hole, use a screwdriver or little chisle or something like that to break the pin
20140922_145527.jpg 20140922_145615.jpg
Now hammer the pin in direction of the A-post, further into the lock so it passes the latch

20140922_145904.jpg
et voilá....the door is open.....
the doorlockpin looks like this afterwards and needs welding or replacement (my choice)
20140922_145912.jpg

Now the door is open you can remove the doorcard to get to the lock (no pics taken)

-1 screw in the doorhandle to take the surrounding out
-1 screw behind the triangle cover of the doormirror (tweeter)
-2 two screws from underneath in the grip to pull the door closed
now carefully with a wedge, pull the doorcard along the underside and vertical sides from the door, be carefull with the pins securing it into the door, lift the doorcard vertical along the window and away from the door, watch the cable from the midrange speaker

the foam is sealed to the door, remove this very carefully. you only need to remove it on the side where the door lock is situated

in the "side" of the door you find 3 torx screws, if you remove them the lock is loose in the door, now you just need to remove the rods that are connected to it to operate it, after that you can take it out of the door.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Well.... having the lock out of the car.... I took it inside to see it I could "repair" it ( unlock the superlock we suspect causing the lockout.)

20140922_152554.jpg

looks like completely screwed together, thus should be possible to open it without breaking it..

20140922_152654.jpg
First the metal pieces off

20140922_152830.jpg
then split it

The cause was not the superlock, but a broken piece causing the normal lock/unlock function to stay locked even when the rest of the lock unlocks as it should

20140922_155159.jpg
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If you are replacing the latch, then I would be interested in buying the faulty one as parts for my rebuilding stock... especially as I don't have a lot of access to LHD versions here either...

Sorry I haven't replied to your email - work has been busy... But still interested in one of the tools, and as I say, the latch if you are replacing it and it's going in the bin..
 
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Discussion Starter #28
try to get time to go to p.o. to check shippingcost for latch tomorrow ;-)
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Got the lock out of my 99 HSE yesterday and discovered there appear to be at least 3 different locks in the front door of a P38

-connector direct on lock
-2 connectors on loom on lock
-1 connector on loom on lock

the Offroad DSE is a 2000 my and had 1 connector, the HSE is 99MY and has 2 connector
(making it 2 connectors seems very foolish as on both sides the wires from the connectors come out of 1 "tube" and in the big connector is 1 slot free, and the small connector has only 1 wire in it)

Two options here..... trying to relocate the pins from one connecter to another.... with a risk of some design difference leading to electrical problems....... or, what I am gonna try first, getting the broken piece of plastic out of the HSE lock and put it into the original DSE lock, and put that back into the DSE door...
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I believe the wire colours between the later styles of latch (2 connectors vs 1 bigger connector) are the same and it is just the connector that is different.

Either way, I'm happy to take the faulty one off your hands, whether it be the one with one connector, or two connectors..

Sent from my S4
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,220 Posts
Haven't seen an email from you? Just checked my spam folder aswell, and my PM's on here and not seen anything yet..

Will keep an eye out though!

Sent from my S4
 
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Discussion Starter #33
will check my mail, sometimes outlook freezes in its collecting email (and sends no more either)

I opened both latches and the easy thing to do was simply swapping the electric part... so now the lock is from the HSE, the motors and switches are from the DSE, put it in the car, and works like new ;-) while it was open sprayed ptfe white grease all over, and also in the part that holds the door locked to the striker.... sprayed lots of grease in, en let it drip out, white in, grey out ;-) soo that has been cleaned a bit too
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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IMG_20180429_1605168.jpg I've just carried our this procedure on the front passenger door of my 97 4.6 HSE RHD. Removing the rear door took 10 minutes, and drilling through the door striker took another 5 minutes. I just want to add a couple of notes to the other contributions. When removing the cut-through door striker, be aware that the two torx bolts tread into a plate inside the pillar. This is NOT held by anything except these two bolts. If you remove both the plate will drop and you'll need to remove the trim to access inside the pillar. I loosened the bottom bolt and removed the top while pulling on the bottom bolt to keep the plate in position. Then let the striker plate swing down and put the new plate so the top hole lines up then insert the top bolt. The picture speaks a thousand words.

I also found that removing the lock is a fiddle. I drilled out the rivets holding the window slide guide and removed it. Much better access. When the new lock is installed, either rivet the slider back or use small nuts and bolts.

Hope it helps someone.
 
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