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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if anyone has needed to do this before, but I haven't found solid answers to my questions.

Since I'm installing a new motor I decided to go ahead and do a rebuilt supercharger as well. So I'm reinstalling the "bypass valve actuator". In case someone is interested, this is from the factory manual:

A pneumatic actuator on the front cover is attached to a bypass valve in the housing. The bypass valve regulates a flow of air from the outlet of the SC back to the inlet side of the rotors, to control the outlet pressure of the SC. Hoses connect the pneumatic actuator to the throttle T-piece of the air ducts, upstream of the electric throttle, and to the front cover, downstream of the electric throttle. A lever connects the actuating rod of the pneumatic actuator to the shaft of the bypass valve. A screw in the front cover limits movement of the lever in the closed direction to allow calibration of the SC output.

First question. The supercharger came with an installation tool but the instructions were pretty terrible. However, it appears that all the tool does is provide a very slight amount of preload tension on the rod coming out of the actuator. Is this correct installation? I couldn't find a single picture or video online showing this, even though these actuators are used on many different Eaton superchargers.

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Second question. When installing the actuator, I'm assuming it should be installed such that the little lever just barely touches the setscrew on the supercharger snout. Is this correct?

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Thanks in advance if anyone knows the answer to these questions!!!!!!!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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15 Posts
I just did this and followed the manual for the bypass actuator. The manual states to make note of position when removing. I put it back in the same position it came off... It had very little preload and I didn't have the installation tool so it was easy to put back on. For the set screw position it says to close the bypass by hand with gentle pressure and turn the set screw in until there is no gap between the paddle and set screw. Now all back together my engine feels strong. When you start the car, the actuator fully opens the bypass and as I rev up the engine it closes down while coming up and then comes open when held at a higher RPM. I have question if my bypass is weak because it was very easy to preload without the tool but my car is running fine.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I have a complete brand new engine including the Supercharger and all ancillaries sitting in my garage and could get some photos of the area if it would help.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I just did this and followed the manual for the bypass actuator. The manual states to make note of position when removing. I put it back in the same position it came off... It had very little preload and I didn't have the installation tool so it was easy to put back on. For the set screw position it says to close the bypass by hand with gentle pressure and turn the set screw in until there is no gap between the paddle and set screw. Now all back together my engine feels strong. When you start the car, the actuator fully opens the bypass and as I rev up the engine it closes down while coming up and then comes open when held at a higher RPM. I have question if my bypass is weak because it was very easy to preload without the tool but my car is running fine.
Thanks - I just realized I missed that section in the manual because it's under the supercharger "isolator" section.

My bypass is also pretty easy to preload without the tool.
 
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