Puddles of coolant near both sides of radiator.

2647 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by modjunkie, Aug 31, 2010

miunk

Discussion Starter · Aug 23, 2010

A nice couple of puddles of coolant coming down both sides of the radiator. If I look at it /w a flashlight from the angle of the driver's (L) side wheel well, I can see coolant dripping down the front of the radiator. I am thinking it is the radiator itself that it is leaking, because all of the tubes appear to be connected to the rear of the radiator, from what I can tell. The right side puddle does look like it could be coming from one of the larger, lower hose connections on that side.

I added a small amount of "Bar's Block" to the radiator when it was cool. It appears to have slowed the leak, but not stopped it. I'd rather fix the problems than band-aid it with the coagulant. I am considering ordering up a new radiator and also a coolant system hose kit to simply replace them all at once. Any other diagnostic steps I should take before taking the plunge?

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miunk

Discussion Starter · #2 · Aug 23, 2010

BTW, this all started a day after hitting a fairly large raccoon @ 40 mph...

james

· #3 · Aug 23, 2010

miunk said:
BTW, this all started a day after hitting a fairly large raccoon @ 40 mph...

Did you not see it?

miunk

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 23, 2010

No I saw it but hitting it was completely unavoidable, it hopped over a "jersey barrier" and out in front of me, with only 6-8 ft. of time to react. I hit the brakes but was only able to slow a little. The thing was very large as far as raccoons go. I felt bad about it I don't go around trying to run over anything.

GT6Steve

· #5 · Aug 23, 2010

I don't think a stop leak product is gonna save you there. It's time for that rad to come out and be overhauled. Or at least I would....

james

· #6 · Aug 23, 2010

Yup, if it's both sides it sounds like it has cracked. I hope you can fix the existing one, new radiators for the classics are expensive.
James

miunk

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 23, 2010

I've been reviewing the steps to replace the radiator. I have one question:

What can I use to block the transmission/oil lines so they do no leak too much while I replace the radiator?

GT6Steve

· #8 · Aug 23, 2010

In the olden days golf tees were made of wood and were very useful. Maybe keep your eyes open for conical rubber bits, erasers?

miunk

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 24, 2010

Good idea, I was leaning towards a combination of a rag and tape, but if an eraser such as these would work:

http://www.jtdraws.com/images/standard% ... eraser.jpg

That may work better. You got me thinking though, silly putty? I just don't know if that will have some sort of unexpected side effect from the mixture of silly putty and ATF / engine oil.

Just curious what others who may have replaced a radiator in their rovers may have used to, as the manual states: "blank off the exposed connections".

vwzach182

· #10 · Aug 28, 2010

It really wont leak out all that much oil or ATF . maybe a quarter of a quart each would be my guess. And I'm a master with epoxy and JB weld and whatnot and trust me, If it's cracking along the seams you cant seal it. I had an old school rad shop solder it up for me and it still split again 3 weeks later. I tried jbwelding it about 6 or 7 times after that, going all out and letting it cure overnight and doing crazy layers an inch thick the whole height of the radiator and it still split every time within a day. Replace it before you blow your motor like me

miunk

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 28, 2010

Thanks guys, I've procured the new radiator, new hoses also (for good measure), some wooden golf tees, some line wrenches for the toolbox, coolant, and am just about ready to perform the transplant (likely on Tuesday). I'll let you know how it goes.

zach -- how'd you blow the motor? was it that you assumed it wasn't leaking anymore and weren't vigilant in topping off the coolant? Just curious so I can avoid the same, which somehow seems unavoidable. I feel like at least a new head gasket is my destiny...

vwzach182

· #12 · Aug 28, 2010

I knew it was still leaking but had absolutely no choice but to continue driving it. I refilled the coolant system before every trip but I drive an hour each way to work six days a week in traffic. This worked out for about 3 months this way. If my head gaskets weren't already bad to begin with there was one trip in particular where it got a little too hot and the coolant got a little too low. By the time I was able to pull over out of traffic that motor was knocking and steaming so badly that im sure it's not just going to need a head gasket anymore

If I hadn't been so broke and cheap I would have just picked up a new radiator and spent the 30 minutes swapping them out but now im stuck with a much bigger problem.

benji

· #13 · Aug 28, 2010

With blanking of the open oil feed pipes, I used a freezer bag on each folded in four, wrapped over the end of the pipe, and help on with a cable tie, works great. Have currently got these on all the brakes to fix all the rust :crybaby2:

burne

· #14 · Aug 28, 2010

Remove the cooling fan for an easier approach!

GT6Steve

· #15 · Aug 28, 2010

vwzach182 said:
I knew it was still leaking but had absolutely no choice but to continue driving it. I refilled the coolant system before every trip but I drive an hour each way to work six days a week in traffic. This worked out for about 3 months this way. If my head gaskets weren't already bad to begin with there was one trip in particular where it got a little too hot and the coolant got a little too low. By the time I was able to pull over out of traffic that motor was knocking and steaming so badly that im sure it's not just going to need a head gasket anymore If I hadn't been so broke and cheap I would have just picked up a new radiator and spent the 30 minutes swapping them out but now im stuck with a much bigger problem.

Now that sounds familiar!

When my 90 was on it's last legs I was forced to drive it in the heat of summer because I needed the AC in it to take the two Alsations to the kennel for an extended weekend. Probably 110F so I didn't want them in a car.

About halfway home temp started to rise and pinging began but I wasn't about to let my 70 year old bride stand on the street in that heat. I kept going. things got hotter, oil started smoking, the whole car was engulfed in a smoke cloud at the stoplights. I already had another engine for it so didn't care, I'm going home! :lol:

Made it before it all melted down and went in the house.

Would you believe it started and ran fine the next morning and upon teardown there was no scuffing? These are great motors....

I try to avoid that sort of thing with the new motor.... :dance:

vwzach182

· #16 · Aug 28, 2010

Believe it or not, my motor still fires right up and runs beautifully. Even with the overheating I would have killed for AC, I had my heater blowing full blast even when it was 105 out stuck in traffic for 2 hours each day. It was so hot coming out of the vents that I couldnt even lose an article of clothing because it hurt too much!

modjunkie

· #17 · Aug 31, 2010

i just got my radiator fixed at a radiator shop! they did amazing work i would suggest doin this its better than payin out the wazoo for one!

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