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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

I do have the lights Hella FF75 and their wiring kit provided by Hella.


Sorry for that hummer pic :mrgreen:

I'd like the install to look factory from the inside so i'll use a foglight switch cover.
I do have some OEM switches, i read that the hazard switch mechanism is the best to use since it's a normal one unlike the others.

I'd like to have the hability to switch those on/off like my foglights : i do not want them to come with my high beam that's why there's a switch.

About wires routing, i'll use the windscreen side finishers to mask those. Any other ideas?

Should i stick to Hella instructions or should i take into account the fact that's a P38 with electrickery thing :twisted: ?

Regards

Florent
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
Just wire up the relay like the Hella instructions say. They have two choices for the wiring...one where they come on with the high beams, which you don't want, and one using a switch. So instead of having the feed wire going from the high beam to the relay, you'll be using a 12v source that's ignition on, running that to your switch, and then on to the relay. Easy as pie.

As for the factory switch...you'll have to do a bit of messing around with a multimeter to see what wires are what. There should be 4 wires on it, but possibly more. Ground, 12v in (for the illumination), 12v input and 12v output. Finding the 12v in/out should be easy enough... set the multimeter on ohms, put one lead on a wire, and then alternate between wires while pressing the switch in and out. Eventually you'll find two that have zero resistance. It really shouldn't matter which is in or out...as it's just a bridge.
Then finding the illumination and ground wires... take a guess and hope that it works. :) You've got a 50/50 chance.

Note....there's probably someone who actually knows which is which on here, because I obviously don't.
 

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Maybe do a temporary install (duct tape comes to mind :lol: ) first, e.g. with the wires routed up the outside at the a pillar to check that the lights don't create reflections on your bonnet.
Do you have the fog or the high beam version?

And you surely know that here in the EU you must never use them on the road if you wire them up this way :roll: .

Sigi
 

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Sorry for that hummer pic
Better be!
But nice project. Take pics and show us.
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,115 Posts
Wired a set of the smaller FF50's up the way you're spec'ing. Unfortunately the exact wiring setup has since been lost in my mush of a memory. What I do remember of the project:
I purchased an OEM foglamp switch and placed it in the blanked spare switch slot. I got the power for the button illumination from the switch next to it and, as I remember, had to run two or three wires thru the firewall to handle both the signal and the indication lamp functions. The rest was all figured out using a multimeter and following standard Hella Harness logic. I ran my Hi-Lo relay to my parking lamps so I could use the rack floods at anytime manually, as long as the parking lights are on. Two are floods and two are spots, the biggest disappointment with the setup is the glare on the windshield and backwash from the hood. I may experiment with some shading fitments to try to eliminate some of this. Haven't had time. Ran the exterior wires under the pillar trims quite nicely (they just snaked through).

 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,115 Posts
Oh yeah, I also had to redrill the mounting hole further forward on the rack tabs to allow the lamps to fit. Not sure how this will effect the deeper looking FF75's.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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2,492 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
munichp38a said:
Maybe do a temporary install (duct tape comes to mind :lol: ) first, e.g. with the wires routed up the outside at the a pillar to check that the lights don't create reflections on your bonnet.
Do you have the fog or the high beam version?

And you surely know that here in the EU you must never use them on the road if you wire them up this way :roll: .

Sigi
Right temporary install as always.
It's the high beam version (driving lamps).

Same for the air horns :lol: although your finger can touch it by mistake :mrgreen:
 

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Are you going to drill a hole in the roof to get the wires out or cut a channel in the door seal and take them out that way? I hate drilling holes in body panels as you have to make sure they're sealed up properly again.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #11
I'd like to avoid drilling the roof. Last drill was 80mm and in the fender for that snorkel, it was a difficult decision to do :roll:
Last thing i'd like is a quick connector near the roof in case i want to get rid of the roof rack for a short period of time (like cleaning the roof).
Once i had that thing up there, i found the rangie so stylished that i don't want it without it.
 

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Post some pics up of how you do it and what they look like on the roof. I'm thinking of something simular with hanging 4 lights under the front Thule bar, but the bar mounting maybe too far back on the roof for them to be any benefit.
other things to do first, Bearmach diff guards front and back then looking into modifying a classic steering guard to fit the P38 which might be fun.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #13
Does anyone knows a good supplier for electrical connectors like this but for a decent wire size of 3,5mm². Bigger is always better in that matter.

 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #16
Yes i could but i'll go that way if the gage provided is not enough.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As I mentioned earlier, there's a very nice channel to run the wires in behind the front pillar exterior trim plates. There's a chunk of foam at the entrance to the channel, in the engine compartment, and the exit from the top can tuck underneath the window seal strip and pop out where you need along the top of the window. Unless you're running jumper cables to your lamp cluster, this should work very nicely. No need to run neg return wires, just ground to the rack mounting bolts. Hate to see you drilling holes...
 
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