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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I need some help with my P38 4.0 2001

Been a away for a few weeks so car was sat on the drive and as usual the battery went totally dead - i charged it yesterday and as expected it was so flat that i had to go through the keycode process which after a few attempts i did managed to start the engine.

However tried again this morning battery has good charge but it is asking me to put the keycode in again and i cannot open the central locking on the feyfob button, i have 2 keys and tried this on both keys.

Anybody got any ideas on what i can do to fix it. I can't go through the keycode every time i want to start the car not having the central locking working on the buttons.

Thanks
 

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The fobs need to be synced. They use a rolling code so if either car battery or the fob battery goes flat, the two lose sync with each other. With the car unlocked and the EKA code entered (so it is in a state where you can start it), put the key in the drivers door lock. Turn the key to lock, hold it there and press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster. Release the button on the fob then turn the key back to centre. Then turn the key to unlock, hold there and press and hold the unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the unlock button and turn the key back to centre and it should now be synced and will work again. Repeat with the other fob and both should now work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi

Thanks for the reply

Ok i managed to get it started again on the EKA code for some reason i have to use the keycode every time i want to start it at the moment.

Left the car running for a few minutes, turned it off and tried the recoding as you advised above, didn't work and then i had to use the EKA code again to get the car started, very strange.

What do you think?
 

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If it had been locked with the fob before the battery went flat, it will come back in the same state so it needs to be unlocked with the fob (which you can't do as it isn't synced). If you lock with the key you can then unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA. The fact you can enter the EKA on the key shows that the two microswitches in the latch are working so it should have synced using that method. On a couple of cars I've found that it doesn't work the first time you try it but does if you do the same process again immediately afterwards. What year is the car? When you put the key in the ignition, does the LED on the fob flash?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for coming back

It is a 2001 P38

After some more attempts i still seem t be having problems, i managed to get it started again yesterday on the EKA code - i didn't check if the keyfob flashed when in the igniton.

After turning the car off and trying the reset on the keyfob as above with turning left and right holding the button down it didn't work and then when trying to start the car again i had to put the EKA code in again but for some reason the EKA didn't work so locked me out.

Tried the EKA again this morning no luck in starting so locked out again, i am normally ok with the EKA code i have done it that much in the past i know code.

Will keep trying during the day the process you gave me above to get it started and see if the fob flashes and then try the keyfob rest if i can get it going.
 

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How are you doing the EKA? By turning the key? I fear for your micro-switches if you keep doing it like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi

Yes using the key turn method i think that is the only way with the EKA code or is there another method?

Yes i did wonder about the micro switches now as i have been trying the EKA code all day and will not accept the code.

Is there an easy way to test if they are fault and if needed change them?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did see on another forum about taking the battery terminals off and joining them together cleared any faults and allowed the EKA to be entered is this worth a try or am i likely to damage the ECU by giving this a go?
 

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No, the only thing that taking the battery off does on a P38 is cause you to have to reset the windows and sunroof, retune the radio and enter the EKA and resync the fobs. But you've done that already......

If you have iffy microswitches in the drivers door latch, you won't be able to enter the EKA or sync the fob. There is a way of syncing with duff switches but I'm not going to post it here. I'll send you a PM.
 

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I love how the joining the battery terminals thing keeps popping up... how long will it be before the urban myth dies !!

P38B, if you fancy heading to Twickenham we can use a nanocom to clear the EKA code, which stands a better chance of clearing the immobilisation without it immediately returning. On the other hand you may get a better offer from someone closer
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi All

Thanks for the replies busy weekend so not much time to play about with the car.

I noticed something when i tried the EKA late of Friday in the dark, when the key is turned the sidelight indicator on the dashboard lights up but i noticed when i turned in one direction it did not light up, only noticed this on my last try before lockout so will try again in the dark tonight. This would indicate to me microswitch

Richard did you get chance to PM me ?
 

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PM was sent 7:24pm on the 10th so you should have a little green blob next to your avatar at top right of this page.

Yes, the lack of sidelight indicator shows one of the microswitches isn't working.
 

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Hi all

I need some help with my P38 4.0 2001

Been a away for a few weeks so car was sat on the drive and as usual the battery went totally dead - i charged it yesterday and as expected it was so flat that i had to go through the keycode process which after a few attempts i did managed to start the engine.

However tried again this morning battery has good charge but it is asking me to put the keycode in again and i cannot open the central locking on the feyfob button, i have 2 keys and tried this on both keys.

Anybody got any ideas on what i can do to fix it. I can't go through the keycode every time i want to start the car not having the central locking working on the buttons.

Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My pal found the very simple solution to the flat battery problem. The P38 has a large antenna to receive the key signal at long range. This will pick up any radio signal in the key fob frequencies and turn on the body electrical control unit (BECU) computer. The computer will draw 5 amps until going back to sleep. This will flatten your battery in no time. The solution is simply to unplug the large antenna. The remote will still work perfectly when you are near the car.
The P38 will un-synchronize the car from the key very easily too. One way is if the key is pressed multiple times while away from the car. In that case on the earlier models you have to do the key code thing to re-synchronize. later models so it automatically when you insert the key in the ignition switch. I don't know if the key can be un-synchronized by the car thinking it has received multiple signal to open without the key, but it would not surprise me if it did.
The BECU contains two circuit boards which after many years can come loose, touch and short out. The early signs are things like the tail gate not locking, or wing mirrors acting odd. The problem can be fixed if found before the unit totally short out and cooks.
 

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I had the same issue on my 01 p38. Left at airport for a week came back and no start. Keys wouldn’t resync and acted like it was in disable mode. Had to send the BECU board off to get the joints resoldered. Seemed all the grounds were lost. Once the board came back everything worked Not what you want to hear but it can be fixed!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi all

Sorry been a while managed to get outside yesterday and got the car running on the EKA code with the key turn process after charging the battery for a few hours before.

However i can turn the car off and then restart after a few minutes but if i lock the car or try to reprogram the keys to activate the central locking with the key turn and button press it loses the EKA and i have to go through the process of EKA on the key again to get it started.

Does this sound like BECU ?

My next job is to double check the battery as this is draining overnight, so i will disconnect the battery overnight and see if there is still charge in it then i know if the battery is knackered or there is something on the car draining it.
 

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Richard may chime in with the explanation, but I think clearing the EKA on the Nano might prevent the return of immobilisation. If you find one locally, or want to come to Twickenham, give it a shot
 

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It's doing exactly what it was designed to do. I recently answered someone on the better forum who had exactly the same problem so I'll tell you the same as I told him.

My car had been locked with the fob, so I unlocked it with the key.
Only the drivers door unlocked and when I tried to start it I got the Engine Immobilised, Press Remote or Enter Keycode message.
So I entered the EKA using the key in the door latch. All doors unlocked and I was able to start the car.
Switched it off and locked it with the key. Waited for the alarm LED to stop flashing quickly so it had set itself and unlocked it with the key, same thing, only the drivers door unlocked and when I tried to start it found that it was immobilised.
This time, instead of entering the EKA using the key in the door, I plugged the Nanocom in and entered it with that. That unlocked all the doors and allowed me to start the car.
Switched it off again and locked it with the key. Waited for the alarm to set itself and unlocked it with the key. This time, all doors unlocked and the immobiliser was turned off so I could start it without having to enter the EKA again either with the key or the Nanocom.

So that is what the Nano can do that the key can't. It will always remain in a state that it was in originally, locked with the fob but unlocked with the key so will need the EKA. Once the EKA has been entered directly from the Nanocom it resets everything so the next time it was locked with the key it remembers it was locked with the key so can be unlocked with the key and won't ask for the EKA.

However, in your case you'd do best to sync the fobs as I outlined in my PM so you can use them to lock and unlock then replace the drivers door latch with one with a full set of working microswitches. Battery drain may well also be down to the latch microswitches. You need to get everything working as intended before chasing a symptom rather than a cause. Don't forget that every tinme you disconnect the battery it should always be done with the car unlocked and the EKA entered so it isn't immobilised as when you reconnect it will always return to the state it was in when disconnected.
 
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