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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning to wash my engine and engine bay with a moderate pressure powerwasher. Could anyone give me a heads up on Gems specific items I need to cover/avoid? Please give me the horror storys, if there are any.

It's great to be clean(er), but I would like to drive it home afterwards... :thumb:

Thanks
 

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Don't!
Get some degreaser spray, a brush, bucket of warm water and car shampoo, and a normal hose.
Spray with degreaser and let that do some work, then use the brush to work it in and scrub the
enginebay. Then use the soapy water and sponge to liberally wash off the degreaser and loose
dirt. Then rinse with a good clean water shower from the hose. Then when finished start the engine
and run for a minute, or go for a short drive to get some heat in there to evaporate the water.

Done this plenty of times and had no problems. I wouldn't put a powerwasher anywhere near the
enginebay.
 

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q-rover said:
BULLPLOP.

I do agree with using some degreaser if things are really bad, however there is no reason not to pressure wash your engine and/or under carriage... or even the trucks undercarriage for that matter. :mrgreen: Every oil change for over 50K miles I have run my P38 down to the coin op, sprayed the engine compartment and underside with the car wash engine degreaser and hot waxed the bugger out of it. After every muddy trail run I do the same. I have been pressure washing my engines for almost 30 years and have only had one issue. I got a bit of water in a Packard distributor cap ONCE. The only precaution I take with the P38 is that I don't play acrobat and stand in the engine compartment to get behind the intake brick. A: I am too dang fat. B: I don't see any bit of grease that is back there and C: I don't want to spray the coil packs. Other than avoiding the coil packs I blast eveything off on a regular basis.
 

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I love spraying the hot engine down with some spray-can engine degreaser while in the coin-op bay. It makes for hell of a smoke show. Combine that stuff with the pressure washer works friggin great.

Dont start a fire though.
 

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Here is a little trick I picked up years ago from a wise old man, my Dad. When you have finished washing your engine compartment get out your vacumn cleaner and hook the hose up to the exhaust side and use it to blow dry everything under the hood. The trick is to let it run long enough to warm up the motor and your vacumn becomes a nice big hot air blower. Pay special attention to spark plug connections and distributor cap. Take distributor cap off and blow it out and make sure it's dry inside before you start engine. :dance: Good luck, tom.
 

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big-t said:
Pay special attention to spark plug connections and distributor cap. Take distributor cap off and blow it out and make sure it's dry inside before you start engine. :dance: Good luck, tom.
:think: Errr... where is the distributor cap on our P38s?
 

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Parden me, I did'nt mean to confuse the situation, I just meant to be sure that spark plug connections are dry. The distributor cap reference was for vehicles WITH a distributor cap, sorry. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks to all for your replies. My biggrst concern was that somehow I might "Freakout" my "Lucas Electronics" and THAT would be the last thing I think I would ever want to do! :shock:
 

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Just to support the guys who said not to use a power washer in the engine bay.
DONT DO IT !!!
Low pressure degreasing is the go.
Pressure cleaning will force water, dirt, oil and degreaser into electronics, plugs, seals and high voltage connectors.
Once that s*#^% gets in, it's almost impossible to get back out.

Just in case you mis-understood my friendly advice:

DONT DO IT PLEASE!!!!!

Cheers,
Keijo
 

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Every post I've read about cleaning the engine bay something bad happens! they usually go like "just power washed my engine and now my rover won't start!" be very careful and try and keep the water away from all electrical components and spark plug wires!
 

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I have only sprayed the engine with degreaser, then used a stiff brush to loosen the grime, then a garden hose to rinse it off. I haven't used the pressure washer on it (Just in Case). Seems most of the horror stories start when the pressure washer is used. I guess if you are careful, then as people have mentioned you should be ok. The garages here don't you let use the pressure washer yourself, and I am really not sure about letting someone else loose with a pressure washer under the bonnet.
 

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Common sense would say keep the nozzle at least a couple feet away from the surface. BUT, many people dont have common sense.
 

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Just pressure washed the engine bay on the "White Peril", on top and underneath the other day. First off I started with my garden sprayer with a couple of litres of degreaser and sprayed it everywhere, left it for a bit while I got out high pressure cleaner and gave it a quick squirt with the water. Since I was going to be clambering around underneath the beastie I cranked up the air compressor and set about blowing water off. Admittidly it was a half arsed attempt at drying off the water but it did the job, next came the WD40, just a light spray on a few of the electical components. I find this meathod works a treat. I don't blast anything electrical full on, I always use the high pressure cleaner with the nozzle set to spray and not spot (water jet cut) setting. Never had a problem with any of my vehicles doing it this way, cars, trucks, motorbikes, whipper snippers, lawn mowers or Jetskis (not that the jetskis get covered in mud all that often)...
 

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I blasted mine in late winter after I got it. Ran better afterwards :D lol. I would get a heavy duty degreaser for the undercarriage and then a lighter one for the engine bay. I kept the nozzle about 2 feet away from anything except for intake chamber. I wanted to see the "Land Rover" symbol and all the etched art glow again lol. Make sure you spray the engine down first and then apply the degreaser. I was a moron and did the degreaser first :oops: . Quickly realized it and was panicking to get the washer started so I could blast it off. I was dropping coins everywhere LOL.
 

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DON'T DO IT!

I did my classic and ended up with a £500 bill to try and trace an electrical fault, I ended up replacing virtually the whole ignition system until the fault could be traced to a fuel potentiometer - including taking out the ECU and distributor to check for faults and replacing the leads, coil etc etc. I was really golly gee wizzed about this whole thing...

I have pressure washed loads of diesel engines without problem, just don't do a petrol engine...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all your posts. I have used the coin op on my engines before, and I have learned the hazzards of pressure too high and getting water where it shouldn't oughta be. But I've been watching UTubes of guys "fording" P38's and Classics and can't help but wonder how they managed to survive, albeit that the secret to "fording" is keep moving and the water will go around the engine bay. I will admit, I would need a better setup than stock to do that.

I am not going to do a "high" pressure wash. My local washer has a low pressure setting that I think will do ok. My only other concern was that when I clean it I might clean the buildup that's plugging all the typical "English" factory engineered leaks! :crybaby2:

You guys gave me good info and I'll let you know how it turns out.

"Keep the rubber side down" :thumb:
 

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I've pressure washed my engine on a couple of occasions, but with the pressure washer on a low setting.
My first port of call is to brush on Gunk, give it a good working in where there's any oil or grease, preferably with a warm but not hot, engine.
Leave it for 15 minutes or so, then rinse off.
I then give the electricals a good spray with WD40.
Never had any problems. :thumb:
 
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