[derrtyjones]

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to figure out if the power seat switch PRC8096 on the 95 Range Classic LWB is the same as PRC8096 on the 94-99 Disco I. Does anyone have any experience with the compatibility?

Ebay has a great deal on the PRC8096 listed for the Disco I, but if it's compatible with my 95 Rangie LWB, I will snatch it up right now.

I searched the forum, but I couldn't find any posts detailing compatibility.

Thanks so much in advance!

 

[OkieRover]

The Classic uses the same switch as 1980s model Mercedes. Not sure if its the same between soft dash and unsoft.

 

[grnole]

Rovers north seems to think so ---

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC8096.cfm

 

[derrtyjones]

Thanks so much!

That really helps a lot!

 

[dcproven]

I usually open them, clean and re-adjust, they are entertaining, since they have lots of little parts, but easy enough once you do it a couple of times.

 

[derrtyjones]

Excellent advice. Thanks for the info!

 

[revoR]

I have now successfully fixed two seat switches on RRC's.......both times the function that was not working was the upper seat back would not move forward or backward. Both times, I took the cover off the switch (easy, but delicate plastics - don't break 'em) and then sprayed electrical contact cleaner with a little red straw down into all of the openings I could get to - then flexed the switch back and forth until my hand got tired, repeated the process and I've succeeded in getting the switch working both times. Will this work for you? Won't know until you try it - heck of a lot cheaper than new seat switch.

SMD

 

[derrtyjones]

Thanks revoR. I will definitely try that out once I actually have a seat switch for the driver's seat. My issue is that I do not have a switch at all!

I may just have to hotwire it with a 12v battery source in the meantime. I do appreciate the advice!

 

[grnole]

you can hot wire the seat to get it to the position you want--- but only to get it there... do not waste your time trying to make a switch to control the seat, the way it gets power, a full 12volt to the motors will just burn them up. The thing is---- before shelling out the money for the switch, crack open your seat ECU under the seat. That will be a moment of clarity on if its worth it to buy anything. The seat ECU has a battery in it, that if it has not been serviced is likely melted and potentially the culprit for your seat woes. They are harder to find than hen's teeth, and expensive to replace if too far gone. I believe there is a guy on ebay who does replacement boards for them for about $430. Being that after trying to solder a new battery was unsuccessful for me, I will be ordering myself one once i muster up my pride and cash....

 

[derrtyjones]

Thanks for the insight, grnole. I've been reading throughout the forum about the seat ECU. I'll give that a go. I'm hoping that everything is intact. I did purchase the vehicle from someone who knows Rangies quite well, so I'm hoping he was able to sort out any ECU battery issues. I shall find out shortly.

Thanks again!

 

[dcproven]

If you want to see what it looks like, I just posted a couple of pictures of the ECU and the battery in my blog:
http://dcprovenlandrover.blogspot.com/

 

[derrtyjones]

Man, that's what I'm talking about! Thanks a bunch, dcproven!

I love this site.

 

[SwedishChef]

you can hot wire the seat to get it to the position you want--- but only to get it there... do not waste your time trying to make a switch to control the seat, the way it gets power, a full 12volt to the motors will just burn them up. The thing is---- before shelling out the money for the switch, crack open your seat ECU under the seat. That will be a moment of clarity on if its worth it to buy anything. The seat ECU has a battery in it, that if it has not been serviced is likely melted and potentially the culprit for your seat woes. They are harder to find than hen's teeth, and expensive to replace if too far gone. I believe there is a guy on ebay who does replacement boards for them for about $430. Being that after trying to solder a new battery was unsuccessful for me, I will be ordering myself one once i muster up my pride and cash....

Wow. With that kind of cash you could buy a bunch of cordless Dremels and hook them directly up to the seat motors permanently and forget about the rest of the system for some very FAST seat adjustments ;-)

 

[derrtyjones]

Here's what I found after hotwiring the seat controls...

The motor that moves the seat is good, and I was able to move the seat into a slightly better position...

However - most of the cables that go into the motor have been disconnected! Imagine a box that is supposed to have cables connected to it on either sides, 2 or 3 cables going into different slots. Now, imagine all but one of the cables have been disconnected, and that's what I'm left with.

I tried to connect each one to each different slot, but I only succeeded with being able to move the seat down, and the backrest back. Does anyone have a diagram? I can hear the motor working, and when I turn my light into the slot, I can see it spinning inside. I just can't get the cable to hook up properly.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

[grnole]

@chef--- Yea... its quite expensive, but its a rebuilt board without the memory controls. I havent bought it, because frankly the seat isnt that important to move as I am the only one driving my truck. Been looking on ebay and the ole interwebs for another option, but those seat ECU's are hard as hell to find in working order.

Derrty - are you saying the ECU is there, but the connections to the motor plug in the harness are messed up? Or something different? As far as a diagram, have you downloaded RAVE yet? Its available in the sticky note on the main classic forum page.

 

[derrtyjones]

grnole,

Yeah, all the cables that control the various functions of the power seat are disconnected. I suppose the black box under the driver's seat that the cables are supposed to be connected to is the ECU?

I'll get the rave manual for sure. Thanks for reminding me. I was able to get 2 cables working. I may have to put the cables in a drill and turn them that way.

Thanks everyone!