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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Unfortunately my home (1995 Range Rover Classic 4.2L LWB Camper Conversion) was caught in tropical storm Nate as we were traveling through Nicaragua and is still suffering from issues. Wondering if anyone out there has made a post-flood checklist to go through specific for Rangies (or even better, RRCs).

I moved the car just before water levels got up to the air intake level (I honestly didn't want to run the car at all, but the rising water forced me to make a decision). The car surprisingly turned right over (even though my feet were fully submerged in water while driving) and the beast drove through a fully flooded swampy field to higher ground.

The next time I turned the car over it was idling very rough, spitting plenty of water out of the exhaust, but after about 20 minutes of running it was purring along as good as pre-storm. I drove the car straight to the nearest city to get the tranny and engine oil changed (looked like a little water got into the tranny fluid... turning it a milky pink). I also wanted to drive the car as much as possible (with AC blasting) to dry out the interior to prevent funk and mold.

At Day 2 the solenoid for the started went out, so I've been starting her with a screwdriver the last week.

Day 5 the rough idle came back, but then went away again after 10 minutes of driving.

Day 8 the rough idle came back and looks like it's now here to stay :/

Having lived and breathed with this machine for the last couple years, my gut is telling me this is an electrical ignition issue (my least favorite).

So are there any post-flood electrical issues I should be specifically looking for, or contacts I should be cleaning as this sounds like a building electrical corrosion problem? I have a feeling the list is somewhere between long and endless....

Here's a photo I took AFTER we moved it to higher ground ... was in too much a panic to take a photo at the 3" below the intake level!
Nature Jungle Off-roading Vehicle Mode of transport
 

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When I got my 92 it had water in the trans
It didn't take long and it was trashed
Hopefully you saved yours
But you will know if it starts to slip

The starter may just be a loose wire
At the solinoid

The rough idle
Don't know other than everything sounds like it was under water
I'd start with a vacumme leak then check the plugs

You do get yourself in some cha cha
Good luck with this one

Mike
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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I'm sure your ecu received a little water, I would take apart and rinse in clean water, they are robust but muddy water tends to cause issues. it has happened to me.
anything else just replace the fluids, the automatic transmission does not play nice with anything other than trans fluid, thus you may be on borrowed time with it. if anything I would do a full flush not just a fluid replace and use an additive just to help it along.
best of luck.
 

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What has been said above! Also check/clean/dry all your ignition-related electrical connections - plug wires, cap/rotor, IAVC, IAM, temp sensors, etc...

That photo is fantastic - What an adventure! Best of luck!
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I second the distributor cap, a small amount of moisture in there can cause rough running issues. Take the cap off and dry it out.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm sure your ecu received a little water, I would take apart and rinse in clean water, they are robust but muddy water tends to cause issues. it has happened to me.
anything else just replace the fluids, the automatic transmission does not play nice with anything other than trans fluid, thus you may be on borrowed time with it. if anything I would do a full flush not just a fluid replace and use an additive just to help it along.
best of luck.
How do these come apart? Looks like some small (~2mm) but long square key to get the case apart?? Never seen this kind of tool before... seen four sided screw driver bits, but they are tapered and this looks like it'd need to be longer.
 

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I just checked my spare 14cux ECU and it has Torx T20 screws holding the case together. These have a star (or double-square) hole to receive the matching Torx bit. I thought I’d post the size in case you have to ask for one. Often those multi-bit screw driver kits contain a few Torx bits.

In a pinch, I have successfully removed Torx screws using a small flat blade screw driver, ground or filed to fit two opposing points on the star pattern. However, this is a quick fix and the tool & screw wear and will not work repeatedly forever!

Good luck!
 
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