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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I did a lot of reading on the various latch repair threads and unfortunately because of the glue used in the later style latches there's not much info on repairing them and very few photos of what exactly is glued and why you can't repair it. Got my front left door latch out, opened it up and finally understood exactly what the problem is. So the switches are glued into the box/housing and to get them out you pretty much destroy the housing. I sent some pics to a friend of mine who has a 3D printer and asked him if he could recreate the box. Sent him the latch, made a couple test prints and now I have a functioning front left door latch! I've sent him the front right one as that one was also acting up and hopefully I'll be re-installing that this weekend.

IMG-20180718-WA0001.jpg

IMG-20180721-WA0018.jpg The original is on the left.

IMG-20180721-WA0019.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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758 Posts
I think you will find the right hand latch is different, as it’s the access latch, also EKA input, I might be wrong .. I’m sure it has 3 micro switches
 

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Well done @Martin_D, a much better use of a plastic printer than the ubiquitous dinosaur or whatever it is that people are forever creating.

If it proves to work well I imagine others would be grateful if you could post a copy of the requisite file.

PU.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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758 Posts
I obviously missed the blank fitted in, I’m scratching my head as to why the passenger lock needs micro switches. Anyone like to explain please
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Chris: Passenger lock needs microswitches to tell the becm that the door's open/closed and also locked/unlocked. Rear doors have one microswitch for door open/closed. My friend printed a "blank" microswitch which is seperate from the block so I think the block should work for left and right (i.e. passenger and driver's side).

I'll let this run for a couple months and see if I pick up any problems. If not then I could post the print file and some suggestions to get a better print.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
Fantastic work!

I for one would be interested in a file for printing things like that, as that's one of the BIG things that makes overhauling the latches such a pain for me at the moment, as I pin the new switches in place with threaded rod. It works, but it's fairly time consuming and getting the lineup right can be a pain aswell.

Will be keeping an eye on this for sure.. again, nice work!
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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425 Posts
It is great that you thought of different RHD and LHD versions.

wonderful work and will save many of us from headaches.

If only importing thing into this darn place would not be such a nightmare.
 

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519 Posts
When all the "refurbishable" locks have gone . . . . . . . :)

Only joking . . . . lets buy up the MGF locks as well . . . they fit.

post-20071-0-82058000-1454969945.png
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I got the driver's door latch installed last night and am happy to say that everything seems to work like it should. Only weird thing was I had the door open and the ignition on and I was testing the locking/unlocking via the door sill button and it worked fine a couple times and then suddenly nothing. Not sure if that was because the door was open and I was locking/unlocking a number of times and I annoyed the becm, but since then I've sat in the car locking/unlocking via the door sill button and no misses.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
That's normal - the later BECMs had the code adjusted (as far as I've read) to stop repeated quick lock/unlock cycles, as the earlier ones didn't do this, and combined with RF interference, the BECM would keep triggering the locks and that's what burnt the motors out.

Later ones will give you a few lock/unlock cycles in quick succession and then it will stop doing it for a short period to prevent burning out of the motors.

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
So the new microswitches have been in for over a week and no issues. The 3d print file can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3047495

There might be a need to raise the switches a bit, it seems the Cherry microswitches need more travel than the original ones before they close contacts. Apparently the switches are a tight fit inside the box so you can just raise them a bit until you're satisfied (they'll stay in place) and then glue them in place with epoxy.
 
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