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Discussion Starter #1
This is the situation. Last night my friend and i were pulling out of my driveway and the engine stalled out. He tried to restart it and it rolled over but would not start. So we pushed it out of the road. We tried to start it a couple times with the same result (Roll over but will not start). After those couple times I tried to start it and got no roll over. All of the electronics in truck still work (stereo, lights, power door locks and windows, etc.) So last night we left it in my yard and decided to take a look at it today.

When i started looking at things today the first place i went was the fuse box. The 20A I think it was the starter fuse in the box under the hood was popped. So i replaced it with the spare 20A tried to start it. No roll over went back and checked the fuse and it was popped. I then checked the oil and it is still full. It was just changed 400 miles ago. All the other fuses seem fine and all the electronics seem fine. So this is my theory which I hope that you can debunk. I believe that the engine is seized and that when the starter tries to turn the engine over since it wont turn it pops the fuse.

Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Start with electrical checks, including the condition of the fuse box and the wiring to the starter. If it showed no signs of overheating and/or running without oil, I doubt it has seized.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Your starter motor could be jammed. Try hitting it in the side with a hammer.

Can you get a large socket onto the front crank pulley nut? If so, see if you can turn it over (ignition off).

I doubt it is seized.
 

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What year is it? If it is 1999 to 2002, it could be the crank sensor. Is the engine actually turning during this process? Or is it not doing a thing? If it is turning, then check for fuel and spark.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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The GTR lists this as a known issue with the Bosch starter on the LP:

Loose Starter Cable Connection
No: 86/04/00/NAS
Ref: 86/08/01/NAS
Issue: 2
Date: 07/27/01

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:
Range Rover (LP) Bosch-Starter Equipped
Discovery Series II (LT) ALL
Discovery (LJ) Bosch-Starter Equipped
SITUATION:
LOOSE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AT STARTER MOTOR
Vehicles equipped with a Bosch starter may experience non-start symptoms that suggest that the
starter motor is not functioning correctly. These vehicles may fail to crank or intermittently may fail to
crank.
The primary electrical connection between the starter and the battery may not be adequately tightened
on vehicles exhibiting these symptoms. A low torque condition will not provide a solid electrical
connection.
RESOLUTION:
TIGHTEN CABLE CONNECTION TO SPECIFICATION
Whenever a no-crank situation is encountered on Range Rover or Discovery vehicles equipped with a
Bosch starter, the first check should be to tighten the main starter electrical cable connection to the
specified torque.
PARTS INFORMATION:
Locally Sourced
• Star lock washer Qty 1
WARRANTY CLAIMS:
NOTE: The procedure in this TIB should always be performed before replacing a starter to
eliminate the possibility that an improperly tightened solenoid nut is not the root cause of the
no-crank problem.
86.60.89/27.............. Time 0.20 hrs.
Install star type lock washer and tighten starter cable to specified torque
FAULT CODE: S
Normal warranty policy and procedures apply
TECHNICAL INFORMATION



REPAIR PROCEDURE
TIGHTEN STARTER SOLENOID NUT
NOTE: Replacement of the starter motor is not
indicated unless the electrical connection has been
checked for proper torque as described below.
1. Disconnect battery ground terminal.
2. Slacken and remove the battery-lead-to-starter-solenoidsecuring
nut at the starter solenoid.
3. Clean all connection surfaces.
4. Install a star washer on the solenoid stud.
5. Install and tighten the nut to 18 Nm (13 lbf.in.). (Figure 1)
6. Clean and install battery ground terminal.
7. Start vehicle to verify repair.
NOTE: If vehicle fails to crank after the torque repair,
replacement of the starter motor may be indicated following standard Workshop Manual and
Warranty procedures provided:
• Current supply to the starter terminal is normal (12 Vdc).
• Other systems are functioning normally.
NOTE: New drive plate balance weights should be fitted whenever a starter motor is replaced
on vehicles within the following VIN ranges:
Discovery Series II (LT) XA900012 to XA907212
XA200412 to 1A299999
1A700000 to 1A729921
Range Rover 4.0/4.6 (LP) XA410483 to 1A459035
Always perform the procedures in TIB 86/08/01/NAS when the starter requires replacement.
Inspect pinion and over-run clutch for evidence of contact or “machining” damage to
components. If damage is evident, balance weight replacement is required to remove the
source of the damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks everyone.

I turned the crank with a wrench at the harmonic balancer so i know the engine isn't siezed

all this has helped me greatly i am going to look into the starter issue. the other thing that I dnt understand though is why the vehicle would stall when pulling out then not start back up and just roll over before the started failure. could that be something to do with a faulty ground also?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright i have made alot of progress so far.

My new theory on what happened that night was the Engine management fuse blew and that is why the truck died. I tried switching it when i was troubleshooting the starter and it popped again. When I finally replaced it again it did not pop. So i was like great maybe it will start. Nope.

I pulled the starter to have it checked at autozone and it was bad. So i ordered a new one thinking that this would solve my problem. I installed the new starter and nothing. So I hooked a jumper wire to the solenoid turn on lead and touched it to the battery. It rolls over but does not start with the key in the on position and in the start position.

I have read other thread that have said that the fuse box could be the culprit. What do you guys think?

It does not have any security faults in the message center like ignition immobilized etc. I did unhook the battery to install the sarter. is there a procedure to resync the key to the ingnition? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So i got a new fuse box and nothing has changed. Can someone please help me. i dont know where to go from here. please.
 

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G'day Gint,
well you have a doozy one,
1,To date you started car it stalled,
2,You tried to restart it cranked but didn't start and tried a couple of times same thing?
3,Tried again but no cranking dead??? sussed out next day under bonet in fuse box 20 amp fuse poped replaced same thing happened? All ignition,lights central locking radio work fine?
4, Had Starter motor suss out,faulty and replaced with new one same deal ?
5, Replaced fuse box with a new one same thing?

So does the 20 amp fuse pop out still in the new fuse box?
Have you cleaned all your earths and fitted extra earth straps?
Sounds like a short between ignition and starter motor?
May need to look at Rave electricial circuits to trace?
Did you swap out any old burnt relays?

Hope you find your problem i like closure,come on guys what else can we do :think: :?: :?: :?:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well i dug a little deeper.

The fuse stopped poppin in the old fuse box. no fuses blew in the new one.

Starter and fuse box has been replaced.

There is no spark and no fuel when i turn the engine over with a jumper wire from the battery to the starter solenoid.

All other electronics work. Radio, Lights (Dont dim when the key is turned to start), door locks, power windows, HVAC.

I get no immobilized messages on the message center.

I am thinking that the BeCM or the Security System is the culprit. It just sucks that I had to diagnose all the way down the chain.

If anyone can help me further it would be greatly appreciated.

Sucks to put over 900 dollars into a truck that i just bought 6 months ago and still not have a running vehicle.
 

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Correct me if i am wrong but the power to injectors, power to coils and signal to crank come from the ECM. Has this been touched?
Check to make sure the ECM plugs are firmly in.

You can also test here to find if 12+ is going to the starter, to the injectors, coil
If not maybe the ECM?
 

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gint said:
Well i dug a little deeper.

The fuse stopped poppin in the old fuse box. no fuses blew in the new one.

Starter and fuse box has been replaced.

There is no spark and no fuel when i turn the engine over with a jumper wire from the battery to the starter solenoid.

All other electronics work. Radio, Lights (Dont dim when the key is turned to start), door locks, power windows, HVAC.

I get no immobilized messages on the message center.

I am thinking that the BeCM or the Security System is the culprit. It just sucks that I had to diagnose all the way down the chain.

If anyone can help me further it would be greatly appreciated.

Sucks to put over 900 dollars into a truck that i just bought 6 months ago and still not have a running vehicle.

I imagine that you performed this test with ignition on ? I had a problem similar to this many years ago with a VW Scirocco. Over time, the ignition switch developed a dead spot at the start and on positions (all lights on the dash working fine) . The symptoms were not dissimilar to yours; the car would cut out but then not re-start due to the supply to the coil and fuel pump being interupted. It first showed up when I hit a bump and the car just died, then just as oddly it re-started itself (manual transmission) and continued along it's merry way but over time the problem got worse until I eventually replaced the ignition switch.
I don't wish to throw you off track but it might be worth checking out.

Chris.
 

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Hey Gint, Big-T here, have you checked your timing chain?. Kind of sounds like a problem I had last year with the wife's car. If you're getting spark and fuel flow the problem must be mechanical. Years ago, when I bought my Lincoln towncar, it stopped running and I spent week's of frustration trying to figure it out, even towed it to a local shop and they had no luck getting it started, then one day in a stroke of genius I rigged a six inch wire with alligator clip's and started bypassing relay's and found it was a $13 fuel relay :roll: haven't had a problem since. Put a timing lite on it and get someone to crank it over so you can watch your timing mark, good luck to you, nothing is more frustrating then when your diagnosing a tricky problem, just have a look at my thread ;vibration in 01 4.6 HSE drivetrain;and the rediculous problem I found was causing it, you'll see I understand your pain. All the best, Big-T. :pray:
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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IT is starting to sound like multiple issues occuring all at the same moment, but that is not likely. Is there any way that either the enigne management box (EMS) has been damaged, or that the multiplug has been disturbed or something has shorted out and damaged the wiring?

GEMS and Thor both get their timing from the crankshaft sensor. Water or coolant ingress can stop the engine firing up. Possible?

I think the only way you are likely to be able to track the problem down is to try reading some codes fom the OBDII port. If you get something related to overall problem you have, then it may offer a clue as to what exactly has happened.
 

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I'd hate to think it was the front cover/oil pump. Mine stalled out while going forward, downhill. The truck wouldn't start for the life of me and two other batteries. After messing around, I got it to start, but the oil light stayed on and the not starting issue was only trying to save the engine from running dry.
 
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