New heater core was installed about 6K miles ago by the previous owner. I am not sure about the age of the Radiator may be original.
Heat is HOT and consistent. The truck temp gauge is ALWAYS a hair below 1/2 way mark since I've owned it - no overheating…………but on that note I will ask you folks this question: when your truck is fully warmed up and hot from a road trip or highway trip, are the coolant hoses too hot to put your hand on for more than a couple of seconds? If you pull the oil dipstick when the truck is fully warm, is it too hot to touch and leave your fingers on for more than a second or two? The temp gauge on my truck never exceeds the 1/2 way mark but MAN! does the engine seem really, really hot.
The Blue Devil may very well have caused an issue with the radiator - and I REALLY hope that it has not adversely affected the Heater Core. I will attempt to diagnose the working condition of the radiator - next thing on my list.
It does sound like your getting extremely hot, remember if your losing water, your temp gauge is running on limited or no water, just engine temp.
Pull the heads off , get them skimmed before you entirely kill your engine, it's all unbolt, bolt back on, it's most probably one of the easiest engines to work on ever !
With the age of these rigs, it's always good to baseline major system components if you don't know the service history. However, this can be a slippery slope to a never ending money pit, but boy does it put a grin on your face. Pull the rad, hopefully a ridding job or a recore is all it needs.
All righty - reading through my last posts, I see that I may have led everyone to think that I was saying my truck is overheating - and (as far as I can tell) it is not overheating - it just seems very hot after being run for a bit. I think I may have had air in my cooling system and definitely did not have a 50\50 mix of coolant/water. I had replaced the coolant reservoir with an aftermarket part and when I installed it and refilled it, I must have introduced some air into the cooling system.
Heater works GREAT.
Cluster temp gauge is always below 1/2 way mark.
Since my last post I have performed the following actions:
Drained and flushed the Coolant - took special care to get it completely full this time including topping off at the coolant tower up near the Plenum with fresh 50/50.
Drove the truck a few times in the last couple of days with just a bit of coolant loss - no overheating, power loss at about 2K rpm's in 3rd gear pretty consistently, none of the dramatic fully empty overflow container with white froth as last reported and no white smoke or other color smoke out of the tailpipe.
Bought a Compression test kit at HF ($30) and performed a Compression test in this manner:
1. Started the truck and pulled the Fuel pump fuse while running (C4 fuse) - truck died after 3 seconds (to get fuel out of cylinders)
2. Removed main distributor to Ignition Coil wire.
3. Attached battery charger to the battery and set it on charge while I performed this test - to assure maximum cranking power while testing, I also have a new Interstate battery, so the truck cranked strong and hard the entire time I was testing.
4. Beginning with #1 cylinder - front of Drivers side bank, pulled the wire, pulled the plug, attached the compression tester.
5. Cranked the engine for 5 seconds, recorded the pressure reading.
6. Detached tester, replaced spark plug, moved on to #3 cylinder………..and so forth.
***I did not take all plugs out at once, I replaced the plug on each cylinder before moving on to the next - does this matter?****
So, my sequence was: 1,3,5,7,2,4,6,8.
Here are the readings:
1 - 112 (first reading was 105 - I tested it again after finishing the other 7 cylinders and it read 112 the second time around)
3 - 114
5 - 115
7 - 113
2 - 121
4 - 120
6 - 112
8 - 140 (tested this one twice since it was so much higher than any other reading I got, it was the same each time)
So, did I do this test correctly? Are these numbers as dismal as I think they are?
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