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Discussion Starter #1
I was chatting with the previous owner of my new P38 and he mentioned that there had been a problem with the HVAC a previous winter when the "book" came on and he lost heat. The shop he took it to offered to "fix" it by making the heat be on permanently ignoring the original issue.

Any guesses how they would have accomplished this? I would like to reverse that but I don't have the first idea about what to look for. Once that is done then I will try to fix the original problem. Any suggestions of where to start looking? The book is still visible on the HVAC controls.

Thanks!
 

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Well, as you are still on speaking terms with the PO, I would ask him for the number for the butchers shop8-0= he brought it to, call them, and ask them what they did to it.
You will have to undo their handy work, then you will need to get hold of a P-38 specific scan tool, like an BBS Nanocom, to read the faults on the HVAC controller. Once it tells you what is wrong, you can then fix the problem:dance:
 

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I would suspect all they have done is unbolted the blend motor(s) and set the flaps to full heat. You'll need to take the side panels off the centre console to have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Richard: Thanks I will give that a look.

Bolt: I would love to talk to the guy who did the work, but he passed away last year. That is why the PO decided to sell the truck, his inexpensive mechanic was no longer available to keep it on the road. But looking at what he did to the battery cables I will definitely agree you get what you pay for.

-Eric
 

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Well to start out P38 heater cores are full flow/hot at all times. The blend motors close off the heater cor side of the HvAC box and blend with fresh air if you have the A/C off button pressed. If you are on AUTO setting it will run the A/C at full "chill" as much is necessary to blend the two to maintain your desired temp. The distribution motors/flaps direct the air to where ever your choose or distribute normally to screen and floor to maintain heat and air circulation. The only real option is what Richard mentioned. They disconnected the blend motors in full heat setting and unplugged them or they removed the blend motors and manually moved the flaps.

The checkbook symbol officially means "take to the dealer to scan the error codes and have them throw parts at until the fix it".

It can also mean "take to an independent shop, with the proper equipment, to find the root issue." from there it will most likely be the blend motors in some fashion. They are relatively easy to change.

As Bolt mentioned you can purchase proper equipment yourself. Very few scanner will read sub systems on LR products, or any other make. All scanners will read basic engine codes. We have a diagnostic equipment subforum below with the info you need to decide what systems you feel the need to have diagnostics for that matched your budget and makes sense for your Rover and it's life span with you.
 

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Richard: Thanks I will give that a look.

Bolt: I would love to talk to the guy who did the work, but he passed away last year. That is why the PO decided to sell the truck, his inexpensive mechanic was no longer available to keep it on the road. But looking at what he did to the battery cables I will definitely agree you get what you pay for.

-Eric
This sentence makes me wonder how the dash and interior parts has been handled when the so called job was performed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This sentence makes me wonder how the dash and interior parts has been handled when the so called job was performed.
Well, I am starting to dig in to see what is there. One of the first territorial markers he left behind greeted my eyes...


by taalinukko, on Flickr

And on the other hinge...


by taalinukko, on Flickr

It is like he took out all the fasteners and then threw them away. I also took the sides off the center console, none of the fasteners were there. Just one screw holding in the HVAC controls. The kick panel should have four screws holding it up, only two were present.

I have a feeling it is not getting better.
 

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Those square nuts that the glovebox hinges bolt to aren't captive and often fall out. They can be fiddly to get in the right place so I usually put a blob of glue on them to keep them in place while you put the bolts in. Using Techscrews to bodge them in is going a bit far though.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A Rhino?
Do good things with it!
My daughter picked it out, I am fixing it up for her as a "so your done with college, now what?" present. I intend to have some fun with it as well. In the meantime I was wondering if anyone understood what the PO was thinking when he did this?

Untitled by taalinukko, on Flickr

Untitled by taalinukko, on Flickr

Untitled by taalinukko, on Flickr

Untitled by taalinukko, on Flickr

When I got it the Airbag light was also on. I figured out that one was because the wire for the airbag in the seat was routed on the wrong side of the ventilation pipe under there and that put pressure on the wire and pulled it out. I was able to fix that and happily the airbag light is now off. I suspect that some of my issues with the transmission computer might be the result of similar butchery.

I found a couple of descriptions of ways to get the AC vents out of the way but they did not include all this Duck Tape.

I was also able to pull the errors of of the HEVAC unit using my Nanocom. I think this is the set:

NANOCOM - HEVAC.APP - VALEO HEVAC fault file


(5) THE RIGHT HAND BLEND MOTOR OPEN CIRCUIT.
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(6) THE RIGHT HAND BLEND MOTOR POTENTIOMETER FEEDBACK CIRCUIT HAS FAILED.
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(12) THE LEFT HAND BLEND MOTOR POTENTIOMETER FEEDBACK CIRCUIT HAS FAILED.
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(17) THE DISTRIBUTION MOTOR FEEDBACK CIRCUIT IS FAULTY.
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(21) THE RIGHT RECIRCULATION DOOR MOTOR IS SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND.
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(24) RIGHT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.
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(26) RIGHT HAND BLOWER MOTOR HIGH SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
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(28 ) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.
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(30) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR HIGH SIDE OF REGULATION CIRCUIT FAULT.
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(28 ) LEFT HAND BLOWER MOTOR STOP MODE FAULT.

My hesitation is that there was a lot of binary noise in the file the Nanocom saved. So I am not sure what is real and what is a result of a buffer overflow in the Nanocom.

But basically I think that says he just unplugged the whole thing. I am hoping if I can dig deep enough I might just find the plug that need to be put back in place ...

Any suggestions on how I should go about taking the center console apart and getting those AC pipes out of the way? I saw the official way was like 12 hours of shop time so is there a better way?
 

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The foam in the joins in the ducts deteriorates over time so more air from the blowers escapes under the dash than gets through the heater box to the vents, so some of the duct tape is to stop that. The two round section tubes on either side of the tunnels are the AC drains which don't usually come apart so someone obviously did a belt and braces job with the duct tape there and it looks like the heater core O rings have probably been replaced as there's more duct tape where the duct would have been cut for access. If you pull the HEVAC unit out, the plug for the blend motors is a black plug at the left side as you look down on it. That may have simply been unplugged or the blend motors have been disconnected from the heater box or removed completely.

This https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/heateroring.html shows the shortcut way to change the heater core O rings while this https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html is how to get tto the blend motors.
 
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