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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, Just wanted to say thanks for any and all help I've received from all of yous. I put that t-stat and coolant temp sensor on Sat. and everything seems to be going well. The hose that was causing my leak going from top of t-stat to coolant reserve is now fixed. My AC recharge etc being under warranty I thought I'd have Firestone check it again to make sure my HVAC isn't leaking anywhere..They came up with none, and my AC is good and cold. The "Notebook" is still there but I'm guessing that's something I'll have to get used to.. Just wanted to thank you all, and as of right now..all is happy in Roverland for me!

Cheers! Joshua
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Notebook if its showing and not going away is there for a reason mate.
If your AC is nice and cold then that's all well and good for now but it would be worth your while changing the temperature from LO to HI and making sure you're getting heat on both sides and then cold coming from the vents on both sides also.
Prob the most common causes for notebook display are bad or faulty blend motors/one of your blower motors not functioning or a stuck blower motor flap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Notebook if its showing and not going away is there for a reason mate.
If your AC is nice and cold then that's all well and good for now but it would be worth your while changing the temperature from LO to HI and making sure you're getting heat on both sides and then cold coming from the vents on both sides also.
Prob the most common causes for notebook display are bad or faulty blend motors/one of your blower motors not functioning or a stuck blower motor flap.
Thanks, tompage81 yes I have been going to hi and heating up also..and idk exactly what blend motors do..but when I press the buttons to re-route the airflows they come out all the appropriate places..now..as far as climate control I really never have like diff temps for me and passenger I keep both degrees the same..should I set one side to say 65 and the other to 75 to see if there's a difference if so..which vent would control which temp?

Blend motors perform what task? Blower motors perform what task?

Also I notice if the notebook is not on by chance if I press the recirculation button..under the AC on off button..the notebook will come on pronto..

Any help is def appreciated..just trying to do all I can before going to the Stealership.

Thanks in advance
Joshua
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks, tompage81 yes I have been going to hi and heating up also..and idk exactly what blend motors do..but when I press the buttons to re-route the airflows they come out all the appropriate places..now..as far as climate control I really never have like diff temps for me and passenger I keep both degrees the same..should I set one side to say 65 and the other to 75 to see if there's a difference if so..which vent would control which temp?

Blend motors perform what task? Blower motors perform what task?

Also I notice if the notebook is not on by chance if I press the recirculation button..under the AC on off button..the notebook will come on pronto..

Any help is def appreciated..just trying to do all I can before going to the Stealership.

Thanks in advance
Joshua
Your rig will be equipped with 2 blower motors one on the passenger side and a corresponding one on the drivers side under the dash.The blower motors blow cold/hot air through the vents on the vehicle when instructed through the HeVAC display,hence blower motor.
The blend motors (there are 5 in total 3 in the centre consol unit connected together on a 3 wire connector and one each on the drivers and passengers blower motors) on the two blowers also called servos move a blend flap which adjusts the flow of air from hot to cold into the cabin and vice versa.If they fail they can make the flap stick in either the hot or cold position and thus produce a notebook error on the HeVAC display.
Unfortunately blend motors are a common fail point on these rigs but fortunately are pretty straight forward to change if you're half way decent with some basic hand tools.
Definitely put the passenger side on LO and drivers on HI and check vents changing airflow from top to bottom and then do the opposite and you'll have a good idea from there.
Also give a look at all the wonderful write-ups on the rr.net main page as well as stickys its a hive of usefull info and advice for any P38 owner
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your rig will be equipped with 2 blower motors one on the passenger side and a corresponding one on the drivers side under the dash.The blower motors blow cold/hot air through the vents on the vehicle when instructed through the HeVAC display,hence blower motor.
The blend motors (there are 5 in total 3 in the centre consol unit connected together on a 3 wire connector and one each one the drivers and passengers blower motors) on the two blowers also called servos move a blend flap which adjusts the flow of air from hot to cold into the cabin and vice versa.If they fail they can make the flap stick in either the hot or cold position and thus produce a notebook error on the HeVAC display.
Unfortunately blend motors are a common fail point on these rigs but fortunately are pretty straight forward to change if you're half way decent with some basic hand tools.
Definitely put the passenger side on LO and drivers on HI and check vents changing airflow from top to bottom and then do the opposite and you'll have a good idea from there.
Also give a look at all the wonderful write-ups on the rr.net main page as well as stickys its a hive of usefull info and advice for any P38 owner
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html


Thanks again..I def will check these things out tomorrow..I'm really starting to enjoy tinkering on my rig..I feel as real sense of accomplishment when I repair something myself..I feel like I'm "sticking it to the man" (dealership).. So I do really appreciate it..

I actually already have a spare set of blend motors..the 3 servo unit or whatever..I bought from a guy with my model..I was buying a bunch of parts of him and got em' because I hear the go out..so at least I already have the part!

I guess..if it's not to much to ask...I'm on coils ..sadly..(pre forum days) and really thinking of going back to air...there is a great thread on here for doing it myself..just kinda wanna know..is it as easy as it seems?? And the Land Rover dealership did the castration..what would have been removed..I do see I have all the things in my EAS box under the hood..and I actually plugged the to connectors together and heard noise like it's getting power etc..Is it possible the LR dealership told me I had to pay 7 grand to replace the eas system or 3 grand for the coil conversion..when all I may have needed was air bags.?? I had a hard eas fault when I purchased it..didn't know about this site then..but I remember a month before I bought it..I knew the previous owner..the air was working on it..the hard fault happend he wanted to get rid of it. I got it for next to nothing..it was working tho..I really hope they didn't jerk me like that. I much rather had just bought airbags..

Thanks

Joshua

Thanks again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks again..I def will check these things out tomorrow..I'm really starting to enjoy tinkering on my rig..I feel as real sense of accomplishment when I repair something myself..I feel like I'm "sticking it to the man" (dealership).. So I do really appreciate it..

I actually already have a spare set of blend motors..the 3 servo unit or whatever..I bought from a guy with my model..I was buying a bunch of parts of him and got em' because I hear the go out..so at least I already have the part!

I guess..if it's not to much to ask...I'm on coils ..sadly..(pre forum days) and really thinking of going back to air...there is a great thread on here for doing it myself..just kinda wanna know..is it as easy as it seems?? And the Land Rover dealership did the castration..what would have been removed..I do see I have all the things in my EAS box under the hood..and I actually plugged the to connectors together and heard noise like it's getting power etc..Is it possible the LR dealership told me I had to pay 7 grand to replace the eas system or 3 grand for the coil conversion..when all I may have needed was air bags.?? I had a hard eas fault when I purchased it..didn't know about this site then..but I remember a month before I bought it..I knew the previous owner..the air was working on it..the hard fault happend he wanted to get rid of it. I got it for next to nothing..it was working tho..I really hope they didn't jerk me like that. I much rather had just bought airbags..

Thanks

Joshua

Thanks again.
$7k me hole!!!
Do yourself a favor mate and stay the hell away from dealerships because they'll bloody well rob you blind.
You already have a passion and hunger for working on your rig yourself and the sense of accomplishment as you said makes it all worth while.I started last August with pretty much zero knowledge of mechanical yet last night with the help of some fine gentlemen on this site and knowledge from write ups I stripped my engine down to the bare block (of course I had my mechanic friend with me but still a far cry from last August).
These are really fun and easy rigs to work on if you have the passion for it and do your research so you'll be fine.
Am actually changing out one of the 3 blend motors myself over the coming days so I'll help you along in any way I can.have previously change both blend motors on the blower motors so its easy enough.
As for the EAS mine is like yours except I'm going for 2" spring lifters instead of putting her back on air but chances are all you need is new bags,possibly need height sensors and maybe new quarter inch lines if those are leaking or damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
$7k me hole!!!
Do yourself a favor mate and stay the hell away from dealerships because they'll bloody well rob you blind.
You already have a passion and hunger for working on your rig yourself and the sense of accomplishment as you said makes it all worth while.I started last August with pretty much zero knowledge of mechanical yet last night with the help of some fine gentlemen on this site and knowledge from write ups I stripped my engine down to the bare block (of course I had my mechanic friend with me but still a far cry from last August).
These are really fun and easy rigs to work on if you have the passion for it and do your research so you'll be fine.
Am actually changing out one of the 3 blend motors myself over the coming days so I'll help you along in any way I can.have previously change both blend motors on the blower motors so its easy enough.
tompage81 man..you just don't know...How I wished I knew of this site before I ever stepped foot in that place!! It was getting to a point where it was luck if I got outta there without spend at least a grand! I got lucky and came across this site, and haven't done anything without researching on here first!! Thanks for the help!! I have a mech, he's cool, he says this Gems engine is basically like a old Buick motor..so working on it is not a problem..Now I just go armed with print outs from the advice of the awesome ppl like you on this site. I may have to break down and go just to get my SRS light airbag fault(have no clue why I'd have airbag fault, its never been deployed!) cleared tho..I guess while I"m there I could have them diagnose and tell me exactly why my notebook symbol is showing...and sadly I may have to have them find out what's wrong with my cruise control. But..I hate that place..they prob hate me too...bc I go with knowledge from this forum and they hate that. Power to the people! :)

Joshua
 

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Worst part is they prob havent a clue what they're doing and just charge through the roof regardless.stick with this site and you'll be fine mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Worst part is they prob havent a clue what they're doing and just charge through the roof regardless.stick with this site and you'll be fine mate.
Will do!! I'm on this site..more than Facebook!! I just like to read about fixes for problems etc..even if I don't have the problem. I think it's cool learning about these rigs!Thanks again!


Sincerely,

Joshua
 

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I contemplated changing one of mine back to air and got a "kit" from Scotty, who included some of the bits and pieces you might not think of like spare pipe, couplers and a couple of height sensors.

But, if you have plenty of time you can just start the job and get missing bits as you go.

Are you going to get diagnostics? Something tells me you would enjoy a Nanocom Evo .... :)
 

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Just to clear a couple of little 'terminology' things up that might/might not help...

The 'Blend' motors are there to blend the warm/cold air together to get the temperature required out of the air vents.
The 'Distribution' motor is there to distribute the air from the various vents
The 'Recirculation' motors are there to switch between the incoming air, and recirculating the air already in the cabin back through the HEVAC system.

The blend motors are mounted, one either side of the heater box - one for passenger, one for driver's side. (they are 2 of the 3 that you have in the bundle you bought)
The distribution motor is mounted on the RH side of the heater box aswell, and is the 3rd one in the bundle you bought.
The recirculation motors are mounted to the housing of the blower motors - which are on the front firewall, and right by the left/right edges.

I recall you mentioned that the book symbol came up when you hit the recirculation button... this to me says that one of your recirculation motors has either stuck, or failed.. Diagnostics should tell you what faults there are with the system though.

The airbag fault... once again, diagnostics will tell you where the fault lies - so you can fix it. However on the earlier models of RR (up to about 99MY) the airbag fault light can only be reset by diagnostics gear. On later models of RR (about 99MY onwards) they changed the ECU to allow for side airbags in the front seats, and this model of ECU will 'self clear' faults once the problem is rectified.

If you are getting stuck into the work of the RR yourself, then diagnostics are a great thing to have. A Nanocom Evolution, like Spiggy has mentioned is a reasonable cost for a home user to have, and you then have access to diagnostics 24/7... and not have to pay the dealer every time you go there too!

As far as your EAS/Coils... chances are the dealer quoted what it would cost for new air bags, valve block, compressor, ECU, the works - because they could make more money, quicker, out of doing a coil conversion.

A hard fault can be triggered by a number of things - but most likely from the compressor wearing out, and not pumping the system up quick enough. New air bags, compressor seal and liner, and valve-block o-ring kits are all readily and cheaply available these days - so gone are the days of paying $$$$$$ thousands to dealers for EAS work.

I would start off by checking to make sure that all the components of the EAS system are in place (if you want to convert back) Valve Block, Valve block driver, Compressor, ECU, Relay in the fuse box, 4x height sensors, all the air lines, air tank, etc... most people that do coil conversions leave all of the EAS components intact, and just remove the air springs, put coils in, and install an override box which gives you the EAS MANUAL message on startup... it's quicker and easier to do that, than it is to go to the trouble of removing the compress, valve block, air lines and all the gubbins! EAS diagnostics to clear the hard fault can either be done with EAS Unlock - free software from RSW solutions, and a cable you can buy off eBay or you can build yourself. (or if you buy a diagnostics unit, then this will access the EAS too)

Good luck with your work!

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I contemplated changing one of mine back to air and got a "kit" from Scotty, who included some of the bits and pieces you might not think of like spare pipe, couplers and a couple of height sensors.

But, if you have plenty of time you can just start the job and get missing bits as you go.

Are you going to get diagnostics? Something tells me you would enjoy a Nanocom Evo .... :)
Thanks SpiggyTopes I don't know much about diagnostics or much of anything..I'm learning as I go..I do want to buy something tho so I can read my own codes etc...instead of going to my mechanic..just unsure of which one I should get..Honestly I don't even know what Nanocom Evo is..but I will Google it as soon as I post this! :) I don't want to have to buy multiple diagnostic things..Rather buy the one that will do everything I need for my RR. Thanks for chiming in tho..

As far as the going back to air..I about to go out now..and I must tell ya'll it is Beautiful outside here in North Carolina...but I'm going out now..to see what I still have from the EAS on the truck after LR castrated it! Hopefully I only lack airbags..I do see I have the right things in the EAS box under the hood, and it seems to have power/pressure..idk I pluged up the connectors and def heard something doing something! I'm thinking thats a good start!

Sincerely

Joshua
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just to clear a couple of little 'terminology' things up that might/might not help...

The 'Blend' motors are there to blend the warm/cold air together to get the temperature required out of the air vents.
The 'Distribution' motor is there to distribute the air from the various vents
The 'Recirculation' motors are there to switch between the incoming air, and recirculating the air already in the cabin back through the HEVAC system.

The blend motors are mounted, one either side of the heater box - one for passenger, one for driver's side. (they are 2 of the 3 that you have in the bundle you bought)
The distribution motor is mounted on the RH side of the heater box aswell, and is the 3rd one in the bundle you bought.
The recirculation motors are mounted to the housing of the blower motors - which are on the front firewall, and right by the left/right edges.

I recall you mentioned that the book symbol came up when you hit the recirculation button... this to me says that one of your recirculation motors has either stuck, or failed.. Diagnostics should tell you what faults there are with the system though.

The airbag fault... once again, diagnostics will tell you where the fault lies - so you can fix it. However on the earlier models of RR (up to about 99MY) the airbag fault light can only be reset by diagnostics gear. On later models of RR (about 99MY onwards) they changed the ECU to allow for side airbags in the front seats, and this model of ECU will 'self clear' faults once the problem is rectified.

If you are getting stuck into the work of the RR yourself, then diagnostics are a great thing to have. A Nanocom Evolution, like Spiggy has mentioned is a reasonable cost for a home user to have, and you then have access to diagnostics 24/7... and not have to pay the dealer every time you go there too!

As far as your EAS/Coils... chances are the dealer quoted what it would cost for new air bags, valve block, compressor, ECU, the works - because they could make more money, quicker, out of doing a coil conversion.

A hard fault can be triggered by a number of things - but most likely from the compressor wearing out, and not pumping the system up quick enough. New air bags, compressor seal and liner, and valve-block o-ring kits are all readily and cheaply available these days - so gone are the days of paying $$$$$$ thousands to dealers for EAS work.

I would start off by checking to make sure that all the components of the EAS system are in place (if you want to convert back) Valve Block, Valve block driver, Compressor, ECU, Relay in the fuse box, 4x height sensors, all the air lines, air tank, etc... most people that do coil conversions leave all of the EAS components intact, and just remove the air springs, put coils in, and install an override box which gives you the EAS MANUAL message on startup... it's quicker and easier to do that, than it is to go to the trouble of removing the compress, valve block, air lines and all the gubbins! EAS diagnostics to clear the hard fault can either be done with EAS Unlock - free software from RSW solutions, and a cable you can buy off eBay or you can build yourself. (or if you buy a diagnostics unit, then this will access the EAS too)

Good luck with your work!

Cheers,
Marty

Marty My Man! Thanks! That was great information!!! So Yea..I'm about to be looking for the Nanocon Evo!! Thanks to ya'll so much!
I"m jotting down every component of the EAS that you mentioned so I can look up the images of them..so I know what I'm looking for..I have no idea what the valve block etc looks like let alone is located but I'll find it..that is if it's to be found..yes I do get the EAS Manual message on start up..so hopefully being that LR did the conversion they didn't gut out everything..They are a piece of work at that place I tell ya!

I'm also going to play with my heat air heat etc to see what's motors I perhaps need..
Quick question so the blend motors mix the heat and cool to get ur desired tomp so if I have my ac on say.. 65..and it's cold..if I move it up to 75 but the air coming out doesn't feel warmer and still feels as cold as it did on 65...would that indicate blend motors??

and are those re-circulation motors can u see them by removing the pollen filters under the hood and looking down in there?? On my passenger side I can see the fan down in there with the pollen filter out..but on the right side(driver side when under the hood) I don't see a down in there..when before I thought I did..is that bc the circulation flap etc closed thus I can't see it or is it not a fan on that side.??

Thanks Joshua
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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These are the pics I took to ask what's what and maybe ya'll can tell me what I do have etc..the first two pics are what I have under my driver seat..is that the ecu etc? Does that look proper? Another question is this round part on 3rd pic beside the air filter box a part of the eas or is that something else It seems the wire coming from it goes to the eas box tho.. and on picture 4 I do see that relay switch 20 I believe is not there. I do see that I have the height sensors..Air tank? Location? I'm wanting to think I may only need some air lines and air bags..but I don't want to get to excited..How can I check to see if these components are working/getting pressure/power??


Thanks in advance
Joshua
 

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Ok... good start there...

Yes, blend motors drive the blend flaps with will control the temperature. Yes - if you change the temp setting from 65 to 75, then something should move inside the heater box. Sometimes if the temp difference isn't that much, then you might not notice a lot of movement. However, if you range from the lowest setting to the highest, then there should be a noticeable difference in air temperature coming out the vents.

Recirculation motors... when the recirculation button is pressed, then the flaps will close (so if you look down the pollen filters you won't be able to see the blower motors through the opening. If the recirculation button is off (LED isn't lit) then you should be able to see both blower motors. If you can't, then I'd start looking at the one which hasn't moved!

Regarding the EAS pictures... You have the compressor, and the valve block is right next to it (the thing with the black round solenoids - these open the valves for inlet/exhaust and the 4 corners). The driver pack is bolted to the valve block - so it's a safe bet to think that it's there too...

Air tank is a cylinder attached to the RH chassis rail - if you look under the vehicle under the Front Passenger door, you should see it there.

Height sensors being there is a good sign, and I can just see in your first picture that there are air lines coming out of the valve block - which would indicate they are all there right the way to the air springs (they would be a pain and time consuming to remove!)

The system gets it's power from fuse F24, which is 5A in the engine bay fuse box. It also shares a feed from F29 - 10A (would think this is still there as other things would stop working if this was removed).

RL20, is indeed the one that controls the air suspension compressor. This is one of the standard yellow relays - so easy to get a replacement.

Nanocom Evolution is made by Black Box Solutions. Have a look in the diagnostics section of the forum as there are a few reviews there, and of alternatives if you so wish..

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok... good start there...

Yes, blend motors drive the blend flaps with will control the temperature. Yes - if you change the temp setting from 65 to 75, then something should move inside the heater box. Sometimes if the temp difference isn't that much, then you might not notice a lot of movement. However, if you range from the lowest setting to the highest, then there should be a noticeable difference in air temperature coming out the vents.

Recirculation motors... when the recirculation button is pressed, then the flaps will close (so if you look down the pollen filters you won't be able to see the blower motors through the opening. If the recirculation button is off (LED isn't lit) then you should be able to see both blower motors. If you can't, then I'd start looking at the one which hasn't moved!

Regarding the EAS pictures... You have the compressor, and the valve block is right next to it (the thing with the black round solenoids - these open the valves for inlet/exhaust and the 4 corners). The driver pack is bolted to the valve block - so it's a safe bet to think that it's there too...

Air tank is a cylinder attached to the RH chassis rail - if you look under the vehicle under the Front Passenger door, you should see it there.

Height sensors being there is a good sign, and I can just see in your first picture that there are air lines coming out of the valve block - which would indicate they are all there right the way to the air springs (they would be a pain and time consuming to remove!)

The system gets it's power from fuse F24, which is 5A in the engine bay fuse box. It also shares a feed from F29 - 10A (would think this is still there as other things would stop working if this was removed).

RL20, is indeed the one that controls the air suspension compressor. This is one of the standard yellow relays - so easy to get a replacement.

Nanocom Evolution is made by Black Box Solutions. Have a look in the diagnostics section of the forum as there are a few reviews there, and of alternatives if you so wish..

Cheers,
Marty


Thanks Marty! I actually just looked into that pollen filter again and today I see the fan down in there..yesterday it was closed..so I'm assuming those are opening and closing..I'll listen and check for blend motor action also!
I just got under passenger door. Yes! A BIG cylinder up under there I'm assuming is air tank..it has a hose/wire coming out the rear of it going back toward back axle..but on both ends of it are holes like something maybe should be plugged into there or are they supposed to have the holes? Thanks again Marty!! I hope I'm not getting on ya nerves!

Thanks so much,

Joshua
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Marty, Checking my fuse box under hood, I have the F24 fuse looks good...F29 a no go in my model..actually I looked into handbook to see what would go there..its in the diagram says F28 F29 not used..Maybe bc early gems model being a 1996.. Idk..just wanted to put that out there.

Thanks

Joshua
 

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Try actuating the recirculation a few times (or even better, get someone else to press the button whilst you look down the pollen filter housing to watch if either or the flaps is sticking, or having trouble moving. They should definitely both be moving in unison. One shouldn't be open and the other closed..

EAS tank... definitely all the components are there other than air springs, and the compressor relay. Should just be a case of new air springs, and relay. find/remove the EAS manual override cable (probably under passengers seat piggy backed onto one of the BECM connectors...)

I would also get a valve block O-ring overhaul kit, and a compressor rebuild kit - as one/both of these could have been the reason for the original hard fault. The joy of being on coils is that you can take the EAS box out with the compressor and valve block, and work on them without affecting the vehicle before you put the air springs back in and try to get the system inflated...

The EAS tank should have an airline connected a the rear of it - which does disappear up towards the rear axle, where it runs along with the airline to the Rear/Right air spring, and then crosses to the Rear Left - and the 3 lines then run up the left chassis side to the EAS box in the engine bay. At the front of the EAS tank, there is just a drain plug. Nothing actually connects in there.

Cheers,
Marty
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Sorry, just looked in the electrical manual for the 1996/1997 model (originally looked in the last revision for the 2001 model - which I have, so first point of reference...)

F24, 5A drives the EAS delay timer.
F44, 10A goes through the EAS Delay timer to power the EAS ECU
Relay 20/Air compressor is fed from a share of Maxi Fuse 2 (30A) which also powers the ABS pump relay.

Cheers,
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Try actuating the recirculation a few times (or even better, get someone else to press the button whilst you look down the pollen filter housing to watch if either or the flaps is sticking, or having trouble moving. They should definitely both be moving in unison. One shouldn't be open and the other closed..

EAS tank... definitely all the components are there other than air springs, and the compressor relay. Should just be a case of new air springs, and relay. find/remove the EAS manual override cable (probably under passengers seat piggy backed onto one of the BECM connectors...)

I would also get a valve block O-ring overhaul kit, and a compressor rebuild kit - as one/both of these could have been the reason for the original hard fault. The joy of being on coils is that you can take the EAS box out with the compressor and valve block, and work on them without affecting the vehicle before you put the air springs back in and try to get the system inflated...

The EAS tank should have an airline connected a the rear of it - which does disappear up towards the rear axle, where it runs along with the airline to the Rear/Right air spring, and then crosses to the Rear Left - and the 3 lines then run up the left chassis side to the EAS box in the engine bay. At the front of the EAS tank, there is just a drain plug. Nothing actually connects in there.

Cheers,
Marty

Marty you have no idea how much I'm so thankful for your help! When you say compressor relay you mean that RL20 yellow relay for fuse box correct?? I'm going to look for that harness on passenger side now! Be awesome to be on air getting the most out of my rig! Sad..If I had known this I would have never been on coils..I feel like calling my attorney almost..that has to be price gouging or something..that's not right for a dealership to take advantage of my lack of knowledge..and tell me my WHOLE system needed replacement in opposed to say..a new compressor, or a new air bag or two..Hmm..I'm feeling a certain kind of way about that! I aint gonna lie!

Thanks again..

Joshua
 
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